P38 Paul Posted March 8, 2023 Share Posted March 8, 2023 Hi folks I have a problem with the OBD socket in the car & it seems to have no power going to it, I have checked fuse number 33 that powers the diagnostics & that seems ok. I had a EAS fault occur so I plugged my kicker in & it lit up as normal, I plugged my Nanocom & that was working but I have retried plugging them in again & they wont power up, any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted March 9, 2023 Share Posted March 9, 2023 Power to the OBD socket goes through the infamous connectors at the bottom of the A-posts. They often suffer from corrosion, causing all kinds of problems. I'd start by taking off the trim on the outside of the RH footwell and checking (cleaning) the connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P38 Paul Posted March 11, 2023 Author Share Posted March 11, 2023 Hi Filip, just cleaned all the connectors that you advised me to do then checked the 5A fuse again which had blown, replaced the fuse then used a kicker lite & that shows 6 red flashes, I then used the Nanocom & when I go onto faults it says "cannot communicate with ECU" then I press "clear faults" & it blows the 5A fuse on the car, any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P38 Paul Posted March 26, 2023 Author Share Posted March 26, 2023 Update, I went back down into the infamous connector block to do a thorough clean & whilst pulling it about, out popped a brown wire, so with that fixed I now have communication back with the Nanocom, I had some confusing results with the Nanocom so I got someone with a Snap-on diagnostic thingy & this is the list :- Code Type | F801 | FL Signal Incorrect F804 | FR Signal Incorrect F810 | RL Signal Incorrect F840 | RR Signal Incorrect F910 | Air Supply Fault F920 | Air Supply Leak F940 | Target Heights Incorrect FA01 | Cannot Lower Front Left FA02 | Cannot Lower Front Right FA04 | Cannot Lower Rear Left FA08 | Cannot Lower Rear Right FB01 | FL Valve Stuck Open FB02 | FR Valve Stuck Open FB04 | RL Valve Stuck Open FB08 | RR Valve Stuck Open FB10 | Inlet Valve Stuck Open FB20 | Exhaust Valve Stuck Open FC01 | FL Valve Stuck Closed FC02 | FR Valve Stuck Closed FC04 | RL Valve Stuck Closed FC08 | RR Valve Stuck Closed FC20 | Exhaust Valve Stuck Closed. Think I've got a ECU fault dont you 😬 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted March 26, 2023 Share Posted March 26, 2023 Good that you've found the wire that caused the fuse to blow! As for the faults, that's a pretty comprehensive list. Which could actually be a good thing. I'd say some connection error caused them, so start by clearing and see which (if any) return. It could even be the kicker caused the errors when it was used with the brown wire (which is the permanent 12V feed) lose. The ECU's rarely fail, but if you need one I have several on the shelve and could post next week when I'm in UK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurbie Posted March 26, 2023 Share Posted March 26, 2023 i seem to remember that this fault was composed by the compressor not working properly , not sure , but maybee worth looking at . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P38 Paul Posted March 26, 2023 Author Share Posted March 26, 2023 19 minutes ago, Escape said: Good that you've found the wire that caused the fuse to blow! As for the faults, that's a pretty comprehensive list. Which could actually be a good thing. I'd say some connection error caused them, so start by clearing and see which (if any) return. It could even be the kicker caused the errors when it was used with the brown wire (which is the permanent 12V feed) lose. The ECU's rarely fail, but if you need one I have several on the shelve and could post next week when I'm in UK. Hi Filip, I spent an hour yesterday clearing the faults but they all kept on bouncing back, the car is on the bump stops so I bit the bullet & ordered a ECU yesterday to be delivered tomorrow but thanks for the offer anyway, I will update the post again when I fit the replacement ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted March 26, 2023 Share Posted March 26, 2023 A lot of the EAS signals also go through the kick panel connectors. Worth cleaning and checking there. A failed compressor wouldn't cause all of those faults. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P38 Paul Posted March 26, 2023 Author Share Posted March 26, 2023 13 minutes ago, hurbie said: i seem to remember that this fault was composed by the compressor not working properly , not sure , but maybee worth looking at . Hi herbie, the compressor is working but only when remove the relay & bridge the relay socket wiring to run the pump, but no air is going into the system which I think is something to do with the exhaust valve showing as stuck open, I will continue the battle of the P38 tomorrow, watch this space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted March 27, 2023 Share Posted March 27, 2023 Even if the exhaust valve remains open there is a NRV that should ensure pressure still gets into the system. If the diaphragm valve is leaking, you will lose pressure through the exhaust silencer, that is something to check. I agree with @elbekko it's unlikely that the compressor is causing the faults, more like the ECU wont engage the compressor because it sees too many faults. A good way to test the system with diagnostics is to connect a mains compressor (or a decent 12V one) to the top line going into the dryer. That will keep the tank topped up so you have pressure available when trying the valves. Just remember to disconnect the compressor if you want to deflate, as exhaust air goes through the same line. Do you have the EAS information document? It gives more details than Raven useful for troubleshooting. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P38 Paul Posted March 28, 2023 Author Share Posted March 28, 2023 Hi peeps, I received the replacement ECU today, fitted it to the system & up she rose from the floor thank god, so I think that means that the old ECU is toast, Nanocom recorded no faults which I think is a bit odd but never mind as it seems to have worked or is working ok at the moment. Hi Filip, no, I do not have the EAS information document, what is this please? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeAK Posted March 31, 2023 Share Posted March 31, 2023 Hi, I think the document Filip is referring to is this one. I just happened to have it handy after looking at a mates P38 today. Regards Mike EAS - System Information Document.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted March 31, 2023 Share Posted March 31, 2023 Glad you got it sorted Paul! Would be interesting to open up the ECU and check for obvious damage. Like the transistors in the (early) transfer box ECU that are known to overheat. Mike beat me to it, that is indeed the document I was referring to. 😉 Filip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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