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Help needed with electrics and AB’s system on 1992 hard dash. Mid Somerset.


JonGM13

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Been trying to get my ‘92 finished and on the road. I’m ok with most things but electrics are a no! My RRC has had so many extras fitted that I am removing bit by bit to get her to a standard level. 
I was all ready for MOT then both ABS lights are on and won’t go out now! Last week fine! It is in wiring. 

The other thing away from electrics after several hours the brake reservoir back fills so the pump takes over 45 seconds but once system up it’s ok.  Could this be an airlock somewhere that hasn’t been eradicated or are the valves failing in the block? We have done a lot of pipe replacement etc. 

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Are the abs lights on when you first turn the key? 

Or when moving off? 

The fluid level change is possibly the bomb, but I don't think it is indicative of the issue being shown by the lights. 

Have you connected the fluid level sensor? Is it functional? 

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Hi yes both lights are on when turn on ign.  In manual it says if lights stay on when you take off the multi plug at back of pressure sensor then it’s a wiring problem!  Lights stay on. I tried her up and down the road and both stayed on. 
fluid level sensor is connected I have tried unplugging and plugging it. No change. Not sure how to test it is faulty?

I have tried doing the reading flash codes and I get 2 : 3 which I think is pressure switch but have changed pump and pressure switch 

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1 hour ago, JonGM13 said:

If you read I have done this several times now.  It is giving me 2:3 which from what I can find to be the Pressure switch.  

 

If you read that again it could have sounded ever so slightly ungrateful ;) 

 

You haven't got a wheel bearing out, have you? Pushing fluid back to master.

Have you checked the wiring to the switch? I don't know why that would be an instant failure, either shorted or open it isn't in a fault state, just open or closed. Does the pump run when you switch the ignition on? What if you jumper the connection to the switch.

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Hi, I apologise if it came across like that. 
I am getting so frustrated with something that must be so simple, started on this beginning of September!  This year!!

bearings are fine, we have new discs on rear, new pads all around, double checked wear tab connections. 
the annoying thing is that it was all ok, drove it home. Lights all went out. 
left her for a couple of days then I noticed the resavoir was brimmer and it had forced out some fluid. 
when I switched ignition on the pump ran for ages till it had built up pressure and the level had dropped to upper mark. So really that’s a lot fluid gone back in. 
I have a spare block on stand by!

if the pump has been run and pressurised then when ever I turn on it doesn’t run again unless I press the pedal or leave it for a couple of hours.

I took her down the road for a short drive and the pedal feel is good, brakes work well, you hear pump cutting in for only seconds.

blink test keeps giving 2:3. And lights stay on when I remove plug off back of pressure switch which workshop say is wiring fault. 
I’ve been trying to find the problem now for a couple weeks as i said. 
From working to not working the vehicle was stationary, I understand your thoughts re bearings. 

can the brake fluid reservoir sender break down / could I override it any way to test? 
 

the both red lights are on as soon as turn on ign. When pressurised up they both slightly blink then both become bright. 

Edited by JonGM13
Missed out something
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On 11/23/2023 at 3:28 PM, Bowie69 said:

If you read that again it could have sounded ever so slightly ungrateful ;) 

 

You haven't got a wheel bearing out, have you? Pushing fluid back to master.

Have you checked the wiring to the switch? I don't know why that would be an instant failure, either shorted or open it isn't in a fault state, just open or closed. Does the pump run when you switch the ignition on? What if you jumper the connection to the switch.

Hi Bowie69

Sent you a PM but I repeated it thinking the first hadn't gone, the 2nd has more info.

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