Interior Lining Advice

[John_M]

Hi guys, sorry if this has already been covered, but can someone just advise me on the best ways to line the cab and the tub for comfortable journeys.

By the looks of it, sound deadening and insulation are both a must. I know of Dynamat and dodomat, and they both look good, but I'm less sure as to what would work well for insulation. Closed cell foam I've seen mentioned, but lots of van conversions use the recycled bottle plastic type insulation I think (although I'm assuming that's more for packing cavities)

My other question is vapour barriers. Again, I've seen them mentioned, but not sure what I should be looking for. Apparently some sound deadening materials also work as vapour barriers? 

My plan would be to put 4-way stretch carpet over whatever I put down, plus one of the hardwearing rubber mats from mole valley over the carpet in the bottom of the tub. Then edge protectors for around the seatboxes etc.

The idea is its comfortable enough to drive regularly, but can still have chainsaws/tools/wood thrown in the back when I need to.

Any suggestions?

[Mutley]

Personally I wouldn't bother with the carpet element in the bottom especially as you're using it for work. Chances are it will get wet, smell and rot!?!

Me I use 10-12mm horse stable rubber mat (the one with bobbles on one side and channels on the other). Cut to size you need and have the channel side face down with channels running front to back (helps with drainage). It's easy to clean in the motor and just as easy to drag out. Just a word of warning though, the new mat has quite a strong smell that has put some people off using it, but hey it'll last forever and does sound deadening at the same time.

As for the rest, I have no idea sorry.

[Snagger]

I second the recommendation on using rubber mat on the tub floor and wheel arches rather than carpet, for just the same reasons and also that it is heavier and will thus block more noise transmission.  Stretch felt for the side wall panels will look smarter than carpet up there and will allow more efficient use of the fabric as it isn’t orientation specific.

[John_M]

2 hours ago, Snagger said:

Stretch felt for the side wall panels will look smarter than carpet up there

Sorry I should’ve been more specific, that is what I meant! Just something fairly aesthetic and not just the bare metal. Like this stuff:

 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stretch-Lining-Motorhome-Vehicle-Interior/dp/B09MSN1WNK/ref=asc_df_B09MSMW1CW/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=570255213015&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=826093479133564564&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006886&hvtargid=pla-1643867575094&psc=1&mcid=bea48b48708e3f3b9f252f45adb5dc98&th=1

Although maybe something slightly more robust?

[Snagger]

That should be fairly resilient and cheap enough to replace if it does get damaged.  I’d recommend fitting it to some ply panels that can be screwed into the sides.  I have panels at the rear of my hard top screwed directly to the horizontal reinforcement section about 1/4 of the way up the side panels and to simple brackets made from aluminium angle picking up on the roof gutter bolts.  Works a treat and prevents damage to the hard top itself, adds insulation, makes gluing the fabric easier off the vehicle and means you aren’t gluing permanently to the vehicle itself.

[John_M]

Has anyone done their own headlining? Reading various forums, people often layer up camping mats to the depth of the cross members, but I’d like something a bit more substantial, like ply. Not sure how I’d get it to fit the curves of the roof tho…

Basically I don’t want to shell out several hundred for a brand new headliner when I can probably get better sound and thermal insulation with aftermarket products

[Paul C]

Sound and thermal insulation is separate to the headliner, first add those then the headliner adds to the insulation but is mostly for cosmetics 

[Snagger]

I did so years ago, using thin ply for the flat sections and thick medium density foam for the curves along the sides of the roof, all covered with vinyl office wall paper ( the pale grey sand textured stuff you find in offices and banks).  It was OK, but it was difficult to get a ripple-free finish without the slits on the ends of the curved foam (meeting the roof arches) or on the vertical faces of the arches themselves showing a bit.  I think that 4-way stretch material would be more forgiving of that, though less easy to clean.  
 

I replaced that DIY lining with a LaSalle headliner during the big rebuild for a tidier finish that would also suffer less mildew.

[ThreePointFive]

On the trans tunnel, I used one of the heavy sound deadener insulations (Dodo Mat etc) with a foam insulation mat and then the same kind of stretch fabric as you linked to over the top.

I found the carpet to be one of the easiest trimming materials I've used and the foam gives it a decent feel. My foot is constantly against it when I'm not changing gear and it hasn't worn. 

Everywhere else I used the heavy matting and the normal plastic trim panels and head lining over the top. 

I wouldn't use fabric anywhere that will get wet. Even if it doesn't rot, it will hold moisture and make the car more prone to steaming up the windows etc. 

[John_M]

@ThreePointFive, does the dodo mat work to prevent condensation on the body panels, especially on places like the walls and roof? And do you happen to know which one you used?

I’m surprised that the carpet lining in your footwell hasn’t worn out, I was thinking of getting one of the moulded rubber mats to cover seatbox, footwells, trans tunnel etc, but carpet would certainly be cheaper. How does it handle water dirt etc?

 

Also, @Snagger, are the LaSelle headliners like a plastic or GRP type material, or a fibreboard type material?

[Snagger]

The LaSalle lining for Series vehicles is GRP with a textured finish.  I had mine in their flecked grey, which resembles light grey primer with a mist coat of white and dark grey and a sandy texture.  It’s very smart looking and the colouring hides light dirt marks extremely well.  I have normally seen them in off white, which looks fine but will show dirt more.  It can be scrubbed with a stiff brush and detergent, and hasn’t been marked by using white spirit on stubborn marks.

I have the Wright Off Road matting in the front, which is superb.  The original light grey for the Series models is too light for my taste.  I sold that and replaced it with the standard dark grey.  That is much nicer, but it can pick up a brown tinge if you use car cleaning products with shine additives like silicon.  Cleaning is best done with plain soapy water.  The black version looks even better, and some shoe polish will do wonders on any marks it picks up.