Mediamab Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 Other option on my list was splashing out for one of the 123 ignition dizzys, but I’m keen to replace the coil too then was thinking magnacore leads and ngk plugs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 I'd honestly not try splashing out on anything, for example, I am currently running 15 year old genuine LR leads that have been in three vehicles and had multiple different ends crimped on to them - and still fine. If you have specific leads that have failed, replace that lead, and then move on to the next problem. Same for the amp, try a known good one, people on this forum likely have spares kicking about you could buy/try for a tenth of the price. When you have it running right then think about splashing out, until then you are basically firehosing money on to the project without a clear idea of what is wrong... RPI like to trade on their reputation, but really most of their kit is overpriced, and their advice...... Can be questioned. They still recommend carbs, last I heard 🙄 All that said, if you want to spend money, there's no stopping you! But worth noting proper diagnosis is much better and cheaper than just shotgunning parts at a car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 14 hours ago, Bowie69 said: All that said, if you want to spend money, there's no stopping you! But worth noting proper diagnosis is much better and cheaper than just shotgunning parts at a car. I sometimes think that this sort of statement should be in big bold letters across the top of the home page. I've not had anything to do with the rover V8 for probably 30 years but tapping was normally camshaft/lifters worn or in the case of the old style aluminium rockers, either the steel pushrod seat was burrowing into the rocker or the steel valve pad was loose. I think rockers are all steel now, the replacement ones we used to fit were. Exhaust leaks are more of a "phut" than a tap imo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 28 Author Share Posted January 28 Would lifters being worn make sense if the tap only happens when the engines warm? It has had a rebuild 8k miles ago but have no details beyond its costs and appreciate poor quality lifters may have been used Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 11 minutes ago, Mediamab said: Would lifters being worn make sense if the tap only happens when the engines warm? It has had a rebuild 8k miles ago but have no details beyond its costs and appreciate poor quality lifters may have been used Very possibly, yes. Cam and lifter wear used to be a major issue on that engine, not sure if it still is, but... As there is no definitive definition as to what a "rebuild" entails it's anyone's guess what it's had replaced. As much as anyone on this forum likes to help and offer advice, sometimes a problem just needs someone to hear/see the vehicle in real life. I could tell you how to track down a failing lifter or rocker but I'm not sure of your confidence level, apologies if you're up for it, please ask and I'll elaborate. To that end I'd recommend finding a trusted garage/workshop or even someone local on here that has good knowledge of those engines and can offer an opinion, even if it means paying for a small amount of their time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 28 Author Share Posted January 28 Yeah to be honest I’m thinking I may just pay my local LR garage (DLS) to give it a good check and do anything that’s needed inside the engine. I’m comfier with most other things but I’m wary it would just be great to know the engines super solid and no longer tapping or not the cause of tapping and so work I do will fix. Also aware it feels to me like it’s lacking power (compared to my TD5) but I don’t know what to expect whereas they should have more experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 Depending on the engine spec (would need engine number to confirm....), you could be looking only 135bhp, comparing that to a Td5 with oodles more torque is not really fair - the TD5 will run rings round it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 28 Author Share Posted January 28 5 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Depending on the engine spec (would need engine number to confirm....), you could be looking only 135bhp, comparing that to a Td5 with oodles more torque is not really fair - the TD5 will run rings round it. Ah ok well that’s good to know. It is an original from 1988 so I assume it’s the low compression variant. Im ok with power being low, just atleast it’s meant to be! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 28 Author Share Posted January 28 Watching a few YT clips part of me is debating just trying to listen and see if I can better pin point the noise. Tappets don’t look too scary a job to do with the patience and care needed so maybe I do just give it a try. i noticed on one YT video they took the rocker covers off and it made the sound much louder and easier to spot, I assume it’s ok to do that for a short period of time? I wasn’t sure how it could affect the vacuum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 (edited) You can't adjust the tappets on a V8, they're hydraulic and if you mean replacing them, then they should be done as a set with the cam, unless you can pinpoint one individual one that's faulty whilst the others are all perfect. Again, diagnose the problem, don't just throw parts at it. You can run it with the rocker covers off, one at a time to reduce the oil that's going to get chucked about. You'll need to stabilise the idle around 1000rpm, then you can go down each rocker and insert a 10 or 15 thou feeler blade between the rocker and valve stem while it's running. You can then listen for a change in sound at each valve, that should isolate the noise. Then you can insect that particular rocker/cam lobe/lifter for any problems. If doing that has no effect on the noise then it's going to be coming from elsewhere. As I said, I think you need someone experienced with the V8 to listen to it in real life. Edited January 28 by pat_pending 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 (edited) 4 hours ago, pat_pending said: I could tell you how to track down a failing lifter or rocker but I'm not sure of your confidence level, apologies if you're up for it, please ask and I'll elaborate. It could be interesting in any case. Most of the advice I've seen or read is to go at it with new parts until the clicking stops. Edited January 28 by ThreePointFive You posted the answer just as I posted the above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 5 hours ago, pat_pending said: think rockers are all steel now, the replacement ones we used to fit were. Fraid not, though you can get them, they are only designed for very high revving engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 28 Author Share Posted January 28 Will have a look and follow advice as you suggest @pat_pending To see if that reveals the issue though definitely aware tappets can’t be adjusted and need replacing. listening very closely the tapping noise does adjust with the rpm of the engine, just gets to point where engines too loud to hear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 1 hour ago, ThreePointFive said: It could be interesting in any case. Most of the advice I've seen or read is to go at it with new parts until the clicking stops. See my last post, sticking a feeler blade between the rocker and the valve while it's running. 57 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Fraid not, though you can get them, they are only designed for very high revving engines. As I recall we used to get all our parts from Allmakes, they did the OE aluminium rockers or a pattern part steel rocker which were actually cheaper and had less chance of failure. We just fitted the all steel ones. It was a long time ago, but I seem to remember the aluminium ones were handed, the valve pads being offset left or right but the steel ones were not. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 32 minutes ago, pat_pending said: I recall we used to get all our parts from Allmakes, they did the OE aluminium rockers or a pattern part steel rocker which were actually cheaper and had less chance of failure. Yep, they are reasonable value, but are no stronger than the aluminium ones for normal use, and add very significant weight to the valve train that can have unintended consequences elsewhere through the added inertia. As said, they were really designed for high RPM applications, not every day drivers. I had a set once, they had so much clearance to the rocker shaft the oil pressure dropped and the rocker covers filled with oil overcoming the valve stem seals and causing massive oil burning issues. They went in the bin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 Depending what your long term plans are it's not worth splashing on certain things that you'd only bin later... Those 123 Dizzys are good if you want to stay on carbs but if you ever think you'll go EFI then just get a megasquirt kit from Nige - it can run ignition and fuel or one or the other, does away with the dizzy, and Nige provides a kit including good quality HT leads that you make up yourself in-situ so they're all the right length. Would also make the upgrade to a 3.9, 4.0 or 4.6 easy Magnecore are decent quality but massively overpriced, I got fastlane Auto to make me a set for about 1/4 the cost of Magnecore, or you can buy all the bits & make them DIY, it's very simple (like what comes with Nige's kits). Generally you don't need to be buying bling bits, just decent quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 28 Author Share Posted January 28 Totally hear you there @FridgeFreezer! To be honest right now my focus is to resolve the tapping. So will run the tests suggested earlier and see if that helps reveal the issue. If tappets I might consider piper Torquemax cam and be bold and give the job a go myself. Then see where I’m at. Long term plans right now are fully restore the truck and enjoy as it is with solid components but well.. long term plans often don’t stay that way ey! Will see where I’m at when tap tap tap has gone it’s a galv chassis and solid truck, just annoying the engine rebuild done 8k miles ago may not have been done with the best components. So the truck is 100% long term just the parts aren’t ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 Also be aware, if using Rhoads lifters they will tick especially when warm... As you don't know what is in there by your own admission, making assumptions may cost you a lot of money... Just saying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 28 Author Share Posted January 28 Ow yes certainly not going to buy anything until I know what needs replacing, just feel if I do need to then may as well upgrade too ey! assume they will have a logo on them if are Rhoads? Or is there something that makes them obvious? If ticking is no risk of any further damage then part of me is ok to live with it, just wary if it could! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul C Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 (edited) I don't know if it is available where you are but proma MBL8 is an additive which is excellent for quieting noisy lifters. Edited January 28 by Paul C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.