Does anyone have a scrap rear door lock available?

[Snagger]

Hi folks.  I am seriously pondering adding central locking and an alarm to my old Defender doors, ideally after I fit the later lock barrels so I can have just one key for all doors and the ignition, not three. 🙄. Part of the process for the locks is going to be replacing the rear lock and both door handles with post 2002 type as the lock barrels are bigger (so don’t worry about me not realising that).  The rear door locks are available new from several suppliers (likely to use SP) with and without an operating rod for central locking, but this rod comes out of the top of the lock to attach to a crank under the rear window corner on the later style doors, but I have an earlier door and want to bury the actuator better in the voids than LR did and to better conceal the rod too.

So, I’m after an unwanted rear door lock assembly, working or not, that I can open up to work out if I can fit a neater Bowden cable system out of the bottom of the unit closer to the mounting flange.  Please let me know if you have a suitable piece of junk. 😉

 

[Hazza]

Have a look at this post Snagger - it's actually a job I plan on doing this weekend!

 

Central locking Series Door https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/108191-central-locking-series-door/

[Snagger]

14 hours ago, Hazza said:

Have a look at this post Snagger - it's actually a job I plan on doing this weekend!

 

Central locking Series Door https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/108191-central-locking-series-door/

Thanks.  Perfect timing.  That is a very useful thread, both for the result I’m trying to get and for the supplier of a CL system that has fobs with flip out keys as opposed to separate fobs that have to be used on a key ring, though I am considering just using the key and the master lock system as the fob system seems a security risk (I was thinking of leaving any external antenna disconnected or encasing the unit in a Farraday cage), so fobs wouldn’t be needed.  This would still have the option of disabling the RF system but having keys without dangling fobs taking up more space in your pocket or the wife’s hand bag and jangling while driving.

I had been looking closely at the Hawk CL systems as they claim their fobs have encryption to frustrate cloning or scanning equipment by thieves, and while all of these kits claim that, Hawk being a UK supplier have legal responsibilities to be truthful about that (after all, all of these kits are made in China and the claims generally as credible as a chocolate fireguard)  I saw @ianmayco68 has a Hawk alarm unit in the red 90.  @Geojake and Ian, what are your thoughts?  If fitting a CL system, going one step further and including an alarm seems sensible and beneficial to insurance premiums, but I do like the Right Key twin master locks (rather than the single master other kits have) and I do like the key/fob.

 

 

[ianmayco68]

They aren’t bad kits and the instructions are easy to follow, the immobiliser is a nice addition but I didn’t add central locking on the 90 . I had it on the 110 and it worked fine but after a while the 2nd row doors stopped working which I think was because they weren’t used or opened very often, I didn’t do the rear door as I didn’t have barrels on the front handles so thought it wise to leave an access point. I would use again but I have been looking at these kits when I redo the 110 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392945795871?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=gnvCGhCvRzm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=7_ObQRDnTpy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

bit more expensive and possibly a little more involved but I like the smaller and genuine actuators.

[Snagger]

Interesting that you approached it from the opposite direction from me, deleting the key barrels from the front, presumably because they’re so easily forced and removing a weakness.  I am coming from the other side, concerned about the ease with which keyless entry is defeated and the frequency (pun only partially intended) with which car alarms and locking systems go on the fritz at airports, with all the EM radiation in those locations, so I’m looking mostly at the key operated CL aspect, the Right-click being nice in having two master actuators that trigger the system on the mechanical key.   I’m undecided on disabling the fob aspect.

[Bowie69]

Cloning the fob on a vehicle with all the anti theft properties of a fiver left on top of a low wall on a busy street would be the last of my concerns. 

[Snagger]

I’m more concerned about the EM at airports screwing up the fobs or receiver.  I spoke to the AA guys at LTN a few times and they said it’s a frequent problem (this was a decade ago, though).  It’s not just people leaving their lights on that runs batteries flat - it’s also the various EM transmissions messing about with the alarms.  Dead batteries and malfunctioning alarms/locks constituted over 95% of their airport call outs.  I’d rather not have to deal with that.

[ianmayco68]

Hawk have there own website and I think you can lock the doors but not put the alarm on might be worth an ask thinking about it I think you can lock all the doors if you have a keyed lock by locking the drivers door . On the 110 I’m going back to having locks as I’ve splashed out and brought some Optimill handles, mainly because when I did the 90 I brought 4 pairs of handles and everyone broke, the pair that are on are okay but ! The kits come with one master but you can buy spares , I might have a kit in the shed actually.

 

[Snagger]

Looking at the wiring on the Right-click instructions, they show the wiring on the (cheaper style) master actuators spliced together before reaching the ECU, so such a mod must also be possible with a second master on the Hawk system, given that only one lock will make an input signal at any given time (so the ECU wouldn’t need to know that there are two masters).

I like the Hawk system for the incorporated alarm, but the Right-click for the double master in the kit and, if using the fobs is necessary, for the combined fob/key like modern cars use.  I can’t work out if they have an alarm, given that they have a connection for an optional siren.  I have emailed them both, so hopefully will get a reply next week.

[ianmayco68]

I’ll be going out to the shed in a while I’ll have a look and post you some pics up of the wiring if you’d like?

[Snagger]

That shouldn’t be necessary, but thank you.  The cheap actuators all appear similar, with three wires for slaves and five for the master.  Splice the master wires together and the system should not notice, unlocking and locking from key use on any door a master is fitted to.  I can’t see why you couldn’t fit a master on all five doors if you wanted to (I also can’t see a point in doing so, but I can see why a master on both front and perhaps the rear door may be useful).