gsr341 Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 hi was out playing last nite (in the snow) after getting a bit stuck in a bit of a drift i winched my self through , no problems as it should then when the two zukis in front got stuck in a drift thurther up the lane , i pulled them bouth back (together) i had just pulled them up to me , stoped winching , went to winch out to release the cable tension and nothing , got out tryed my external controls , same , could hear the albright clicking but nothing , happing put the rope back on by hand and the poor litle zook had to haul my lardy landy back through the 30' of 4' deep snow up hill , took over 2 hours to get all 3 of us unstuck , up on top of the wayfarer in the dark any how back home to night ive , put a meeter on eack of the terminals on the motor and can get power from the allbright to each pole on the motor winching in or out , but still no motor movement ? any one gota a better way for me to test the motor history : warn 8274 fully rebuilt drilled and tapped main shaft , warn 6 hp xp motor (which has run for a total of 15 mins ever ) any help appriciated guys or my rear winch gets robbed before i even fit it edited to add the pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wightman Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 You don't say how long the motor has been on the winch. My first port of call would be the brushes, probably stuck. The motor would run for a while till the brushes wear down then nothing. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Br00n1e Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 try this Warn Motor Testing Procedure If you find yourself in a situation where your winch is clicking but it is not working, you may have a motor problem or you may have a solenoid problem. The following procedure, from Warn, will help you determine the status of your winch motor. 1 Put the winch in freespool. 2 Disconnect the positive lead from the battery (leave the ground lead attached). 3 Label and disconnect the three cables that run from the control pack to the three posts on the motor. 4 Stamped next to the three posts on the motor will be “A ‘~ “F]” and “F2 ~‘. Run a small jumper wire (5 “-6” dead’ lead, 8 ga. will work just fine) from “A “to “]” and put power from the battery (jumper cables work good) to “F2 “. The winch motor should run in one direction at this time. 5 Next, place the jumper wire from “A” to “F2” and put power from the battery to “F “. The winch motor should run in the opposite direction at this time If these steps are followed correctly and the motor runs in both directions, the motor is good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiWhite Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 I've seen the brushes literally disintegrate in an XP motor through corossion. Whip the end off and check all is as it should be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsr341 Posted February 10, 2007 Author Share Posted February 10, 2007 chhers guys , will chaek the bushes tommorrow, motor been on around 8 months , lots of that time just sat around waiting for work to be done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D9OSV Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 Silly, dumb one for you........ Is the motor earthed to the chassis or back to the battery....? It must be earthed back to the battery, no matter what anyone says. It is very important for good operation. Also remove the earth and clean the terminal throughly as this could cause the same problem, even if it does look good and tight you'd be suprised. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 I also found the earth cable had a habit of coming loose on the motor when I first had it. As suggested, check that first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 thwack the motor with a BFH - not hard just a tap, try that a few times. ive had my motor do exactly what yours is doing & a tap cures it. im guessing a bit of dirt in there is making the brushes stick - one day i'll open it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 thwack the motor with a BFH - not hard just a tap, try that a few times. ive had my motor do exactly what yours is doing & a tap cures it. im guessing a bit of dirt in there is making the brushes stick - one day i'll open it up. Good point, didn't think of that! Seen it happen before with members at a play day - guy's been winching, motor gets warm is then left and when its cool it doesn't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 ive taken to finding a handy stone & twating my winch to wake it up at the begining of a playday, saves having to find a stone while stuck later on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Abel Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 I’ve had a xp motor do the same thing, on a 9.5xp winch, it was full of water when I checked it, tried cleaning it up but the water and corrosion had taken its tole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsr341 Posted February 11, 2007 Author Share Posted February 11, 2007 thanks for the advise guys , motor looks like new on the out side , well corroded brushes when stripped is there any thing i can do to waterproof it a bit ? was going to silcon grease the terminals and brush slides etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 thanks for the advise guys , motor looks like new on the out side , well corroded brushes when stripped is there any thing i can do to waterproof it a bit ? was going to silcon grease the terminals and brush slides etc Seal between the gearbox and motor and fit a breather to the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Abel Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 Seal between the gearbox and motor and fit a breather to the motor. You also need to take the end cap of the motor and seal that to with silicone. if you got a breather fitted to the motor you can blow into the breather and check its not leaking anywhere by spraying the motor in a bit of washing up liquid and some water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wightman Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 Sealing the motor is a good thing but it will still suffer from condensation so I would recommend stripping it every 6 months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 The earth on mine has always been onto one of the bolts on the gearbox bell housing and never back to the battery should I alter it? opinions please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 The earth on mine has always been onto one of the bolts on the gearbox bell housing and never back to the batteryshould I alter it? opinions please IMHO, yes - you'll only loose power doing it like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wightman Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 The earth on mine has always been onto one of the bolts on the gearbox bell housing and never back to the batteryshould I alter it? opinions please Tony, a man of your standing in the off road community asking a question like that! Many people put a lot of effort into getting the + volts to the winch but the return – volts are just as important. In your situation you have a cable running from the winch motor to the bell housing, probably a cable from the bell housing to the chassis? Which means a cable from the chassis to the battery. Even if the bell housing is connected to the battery it’s still a connection too many. When you think about it if 35 sq mm cable is required to carry the current required by the winch motor each joint has to carry the same current but joints are prone to corrosion so require regular inspection and cleaning. Ask Fridge, I’m sure he can conjure up some seriously convincing figures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 Well I've had it like that ever since I got the winch never noticed any lack of power at the winch so I've left it. I guess I'll need to buy some more 35mm2 cable and crimps now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 Use solder terminals , you know the carp cant get in if they are full of solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 While we are on the subject , what preparation would I have to do to weld and earthing bolt /stud to a winch motor housing . As there is no space under the husky to attach the earth cable to the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wightman Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 While we are on the subject , what preparation would I have to do to weld and earthing bolt /stud to a winch motor housing . As there is no space under the husky to attach the earth cable to the motor. Motor bodies are thick steel so clean off the paint and weld a bolt to the casing. Make sure your welding earth is connected to the motor body! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 Motor bodies are thick steel so clean off the paint and weld a bolt to the casing. Make sure your welding earth is connected to the motor body! So I shouldnt have to strip out the magnets ,? I was a bit concerned about doing damage . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wightman Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 So I shouldnt have to strip out the magnets ,? I was a bit concerned about doing damage . I had no problem when I did my 2 XP motors, the heat will dissipate quickly enough not to bother the magnets. Any X-purts with an opinion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 yes I just bolted the earth onto the Husky motor where it was designed to connect to. Have you let it in Lower Jase? stoping access to the earth bolt thread I fitted an XP motor to my Husky way back and on this occasion wired the earth back to the battery would the front be ok If I ran a cable to the same stud on the bell housing from the battery earth? as I have enough cable in the garage to do that. Or am I being Mr Bodgetastic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.