JimAttrill Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 If (not when) your wheel bearings need adjusting you will find that it is now impossible, for LR have replaced the two nuts and lock washer with a spacer thingy and one strange nut. We always remove the nut and the spacer, fit two of the old nuts and a lock washer and away you go. I mean, how stupid is it to fit adjustable taper roller bearings and then make them non-adjustable? (Don't ask, done by the company that brought you non-actuating Diff locks on the Disco II) (Scrap Iron sell a kit to do the above, but include 2 wheel bearings which you most likely do not need) The tip is that the spacer is PREZACKLY the right size to use when fitting caliper seals, to be exact the steel dust seal, to the front brakes. So hang on to one of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 The Td5 bearing spacers are available in about six or eight different thicknesses, I can't remember the numbers offhand though. The idea being that you put the bearing on with a spacer, check the slack in the bearing, substitute the next thinnest spacer, check it again, etc etc until it is right, then put the stake nut on the outside torque it up to silly tight and chisel the edge over onto the stub axle to stop it falling off. Quite what was wrong with the original idea of two nuts and a lockwasher I have no idea, and one corner of my 90 now has exactly the arrangement you describe! The others haven't needed doing yet. The only thing the new system does make easier is greasing wheel bearings if they don't need adjusting, because you can just take them off, grease them and put them back with the same spacer and it is immediately right, but then you need four new stake nuts (in theory - in practice you can often get away with as little as one new nut and re-use the others on different corners as long as the bit you need to "stake" is on a different side of the nut). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 Selective spacers are p/no TOF100000 (purple/15.5mm thick) through ...010, ...020 etc to TOF100060 (white/14.9mm thick) and the hub stake nut is RFD100000 Guess if there is more than 0.6mm slack in the bearings then its over to Jim's method Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted March 11, 2007 Author Share Posted March 11, 2007 Maybe LR aren't as stupid as I make them out to be. BUT those spacers we would have to buy from the stealers and would most likely cost at least a finger if not a hand or an arm or leg. We avoid buying from the stealers, only the bits we can't get anywhere else like TD5 injection harnesses etc. So we just buy lots of old-type nuts and the lock washers. Mostly Bearmach or Britpart. Oh, and I like your description: "The Td5 bearing spacers are available in about six or eight different thicknesses, I can't remember the numbers offhand though. The idea being that you put the bearing on with a spacer, check the slack in the bearing, substitute the next thinnest spacer, check it again, etc etc until it is right, then put the stake nut on the outside torque it up to silly tight and chisel the edge over onto the stub axle to stop it falling off." I somehow can't imagine our local stealers getting this right as they seem to have difficulty getting a sump plug in without stripping it. Oh, and what did you think of my tip Steve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 Maybe LR aren't as stupid as I make them out to be. BUT those spacers we would have to buy from the stealers and would most likely cost at least a finger if not a hand or an arm or leg. We avoid buying from the stealers, only the bits we can't get anywhere else like TD5 injection harnesses etc. So we just buy lots of old-type nuts and the lock washers. Mostly Bearmach or Britpart. Oh, and I like your description: "The Td5 bearing spacers are available in about six or eight different thicknesses, I can't remember the numbers offhand though. The idea being that you put the bearing on with a spacer, check the slack in the bearing, substitute the next thinnest spacer, check it again, etc etc until it is right, then put the stake nut on the outside torque it up to silly tight and chisel the edge over onto the stub axle to stop it falling off." I somehow can't imagine our local stealers getting this right as they seem to have difficulty getting a sump plug in without stripping it. Oh, and what did you think of my tip Steve? Can't remember the cost, prob a few £ each? I prefer the adjustable old-style system as you describe, that's why I had mine changed to that when I had a loose bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boot Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 Does anybody have a step-by-step for this? Can I just replace the existing stake nut with two lock nuts and lock tab washers? What else do I need to do? I have tried to 'nip-up' the play in my hubs by tightening the stake nut, but I cannot tighten this to the point where I feel resistance turning the wheel. What am I doing wrong? Gareth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 Basically: Buy the bits! Take off the new type stake nut and big washer behind it, take out the outer bearing, and remove the spacer behind it, discard or keep for napkin ring etc. Bearing back in, fit lockwashers and double nuts to the old spec, tighten to the correct amount of play in the bearing, tighten the outer locknut and hammer the washer over to lock them. I think there is a post in the Tech Archive covering adjusting the old sort of wheel bearings so look at that if unsure. Don't think I have forgotten anything You will not remove any play in the bearing by "nipping up" the new type stake nuts (or even by giving it a #kin good heave on a 3 foot bar) because all you are doing is tightening the bearing against the solid steel spacer ring between the bearings, which will not make it get any closer to the other bearing unless you collapse the spacer ring which is not likely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted May 15, 2008 Author Share Posted May 15, 2008 And it's that spacer ring/napkin ring that is handy for pushing in those silly tin things on the brake calipers. You will find that it is a beautiful fit around the larger 110 size piston. For the smaller Disco/90 pistons I use the centre of an old taper roller bearing which just happens to be the right size. I have no idea which bearing it was as I found it in a box of old scrap bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 Hi JimAttrill.... Do you have any pics for illustration? Some of us are still in the DayNursery stage and understand things better with pictures... ( Still do remmember pictures of JACK and JILL going up the HILL ) Can survive without it though..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted May 15, 2008 Author Share Posted May 15, 2008 pictures of the wheel bearing job or the caliper job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted May 16, 2008 Share Posted May 16, 2008 pictures of the wheel bearing job or the caliper job? Thinking of the caliper job...Seen many of the bearings done..!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted May 16, 2008 Author Share Posted May 16, 2008 The TD5 napkin ring is on the right. I don't have a 110 piston for the picture though. You put the inner rubber ring in the caliper, followed by the piston (right way round) in about half way. Put the wiper rubber seal into the tin ring which is a bit of a fiddle, then slide that over the piston followed by the ring as above. Then clamp the ring with a G-clamp to push in the tin ring. Just don't use Britpart kits as the tin rings are the wrong shape and won't push into the caliper. Bearmach sell the OEM AP kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted May 17, 2008 Share Posted May 17, 2008 Thanks JimAtrill.... ... Best REgards Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Early90 Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 i thought i might need this thread one day,i`ve just fitted TD5 axles and have slight play in a rear wheel bearing. I`ve done a bit of reading while looking for this thread and i`m left with two questions. Can i remove the spacer with the hub still on the vehicle? How do i know (without taking out a drive shaft) which type of thrust and lock washers to order,in other words will the stub axle have a flat or a groove? Many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 EArly... which truck are you driving? If an adult does not turn up, I might be able to help--- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 You could in other words put up a request on the Parts section and Uncle Ralph will turn up shortly. He is the Guru of parts and numbers! I once nearly called him Einstein due to his memory at recollecting numbers.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 You could in other words put up a request on the Parts section and Uncle Ralph will turn up shortly. He is the Guru of parts and numbers! I once nearly called him Einstein due to his memory at recollecting numbers.. not my memory just my 110 parts books & Microcat/LRSeries website as they have lots of nice photo's to illustrate the exact parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 i thought i might need this thread one day,i`ve just fitted TD5 axles and have slight play in a rear wheel bearing. I`ve done a bit of reading while looking for this thread and i`m left with two questions. Can i remove the spacer with the hub still on the vehicle? How do i know (without taking out a drive shaft) which type of thrust and lock washers to order,in other words will the stub axle have a flat or a groove? Many thanks. you'll only know which lock washer when you remove the driving member from the outside of the hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Early90 Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 EArly... which truck are you driving? If an adult does not turn up, I might be able to help Defender TD5 axles on my Ninety. you'll only know which lock washer when you remove the driving member from the outside of the hub. Thanks Ralph,i was hoping they only used one type on defender TD5 axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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