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clonky drive train again .

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guys ive been having some trouble with play in my drive train , i changed my drive members and it sorted it for a wee while but then the slack returned.

ive just wipped off my diff flange and it looked ok but the stub that was left sticking out of my diff was loose , i could wiggle it around , is this supposed to be like this?

also the front prop was removed at the diff end and when i turn it i can hear a clonking from the tranny box (lt77 lt230), just behind that inspection plate thats bolted on the bottom there.

now , i need to diagnose the slack in the drive train by tomorrow so i can nip to autopost and get the parts i need in the morning as they close early on saturday , any ideas?


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i think it might be a worn main shaft , when i let my foot off the clutch to move away it clonks (lots of little clonks all together) before the drive picks up , also does it when i press the clutch in whilst driving. it jumps back and forth when slowing down using the engine to brake and its a nightmare to drive in slow traffic jams.

ive changed the drive members on the front (back ones were ok when i checked) and checked the flanges on the diff and tranny box , all seemed ok. ive also replaced the front prop and all uj's.

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Just a thought but have you checked it is realy the drive chain?, some play is normal in any Land Rover.

You can get a similar clonk from the ball joint on the top of the rear axle.

To check it: with the hand brake off and front wheels chocked check for play with a big bar it should be almost completely solid.

In case any one wonders why check with the hand brake off, I have found if the weight of the vehicle is held on the rear axle i.e vehicle on a slight slope, the joint tends to lock up and look good even when totally worn out.

Worth checking the rest of the bushes at the same time as well.

Good Luck

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all the bushings , ball joints , suspension , steering etc are all brand new.

i took the inspection plate off the back of the tranny box and found that the gear will turn quite a bit before engaging the shaft.

there is stacks of play there causing the shunt in the drive train.

i was in autopost on the week end and they have the gear bit on the shelf , is this a hard bit to replace, has any one ever replaced the main shaft transfer gear?


also , is there a chance anything else might be worn if this is?

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in theory changing the input gear for a new one will half the slack, but a worn mainshaft will wear the input gear more quickly than if they were both in good condition.

take the gear out and post a pic?

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i would do tonk but i need the 90 to get to work in.

i took the inspection plate off and there was a fair amount of play between the gear and the shaft.

what do i need to do to change the gear?

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