dougstar Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 driving home monday, notices problem with clutch.......... -then had to start pulling pedal up with foot after pressing clutch (its just the spring return on pedal my inexperience tells me ) -after several gear changes using this method all seemed ok then doh! all clutch is lost -i nursed it the remaining mile home and stalls at bottom of cul-de-sac. -after getting my kids and the remaining 2-10 year olds in the street to push my disco i parked it outside the house. -first check no fluid lost -master cylinder checked, all ok -removed slave cylinder all ok -cannot be the clutch i tells my self as all seemed well laneing at the weeekend and no slipping etc etc -then i reaches in only to discover the release lever seems to have snapped above the release lever pivot point as i can move this by hooking it with my shaped long nose pliers and flick it about with my fingers!!!!!!! -consulting both my haynes and genuine LR manual it seems that the only way to fix this is via removal of the gear and transfer boxes??? -if this is the case which it looking like it, it must be worth changing the complete clutch in my 1996 175000 disco? paddocks do a borg and beck clutch are these any good?? if i,m doing the whole out jobby i wanna do it RIGHT so whats the best clutch to put in? is it worth getting my gearbox reconditioned at the same time too? how bigger job is this? i have limited experience but have a very good pal on side that is really good mechinic is it a relevent job? whilst all this is going on and removed from the car what else should i be doing with regards to maintenence and preventative maintenince??? hope you clever guys can help me on this one and look forward to hearing all you opinions. thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 It's all here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6719 Edit: forgot u had more Qs: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=13053 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5221 And this is what's inside the box: I have a Sachs one fitted, 2 years now (part# 3000 950 701): info. Works excellent, much lighter and smoother than all Valeo's tested (on other Discos or Defenders). Never had the chance to test a Borg&Beck. Go for a B&B, the reports are favorable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 Don't forget to ask Les on here if he's got any reinforced clutch forks. It will save a lot of pain in the long run. HTH Ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougstar Posted October 12, 2007 Author Share Posted October 12, 2007 oops really must search harder on the forum in future anyhoo whats this i read about the 130 friction plates being a better job? does this come with any disadvantages??? think i,m gonna go for the B&B clutch as that is getting the best reviews. what about the strengthing of the replacment release lever whats the best way to go about this or can they be bought?? thanks again guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 Think that's in the archive as well - but I can't find it!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 what about the strengthing of the replacment release lever whats the best way to go about this or can they be bought??thanks again guys. Contact Les Henson on here (moderator of the Series Forum). He strengthens the clutch fork and paints it a nice colour too. Ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 Dougster, i recently did the clutch on my 200 disco, i pulled the engine out rather than take the box out, i found it easier..... i hate laying on my back under the truck with the thought of the weight of a gearbox about to fall on me..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougstar Posted October 18, 2007 Author Share Posted October 18, 2007 OK OK OK, have now got everything apart virtually, and my parts on a next day delivery service from paddocks have just arrived at the wrong address 3 days late with bits missing off the order however whilst looking through my manual and parts catalogue i wondered if it was worth replacing the release lever pivot post (the bit with the ball on the end)? do these wear and has anyone changed one? looking through the catalogue it states it as part number FTC 5218 but when i punch this in to the likes of craddocks, nothing any ideas?? i was wondering if it came as a spare part or was actually part of the gearbox front cover? hope somebody can help as i getting dizzy running round these files and around tinterweb thaks in advance dougstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason2 Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 OK OK OK,have now got everything apart virtually, and my parts on a next day delivery service from paddocks have just arrived at the wrong address 3 days late with bits missing off the order however whilst looking through my manual and parts catalogue i wondered if it was worth replacing the release lever pivot post (the bit with the ball on the end)? do these wear and has anyone changed one? looking through the catalogue it states it as part number FTC 5218 but when i punch this in to the likes of craddocks, nothing any ideas?? i was wondering if it came as a spare part or was actually part of the gearbox front cover? hope somebody can help as i getting dizzy running round these files and around tinterweb thaks in advance dougstar Wunt have thought that bit needs changing! Dont forget to get a new spigot bearing, goes in end of crankshaft & holds gearbox main shaft! To get the old one out fill with grease then put approx diameter bar in and tw*t it with a hammer. Did mine this summer cos gearbox blew, 1995,128k and clutch fork was like new,had already got a new one so I changed it all the same. Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 I wouldn't bother chaning that bit, they don't seem to wear... just make sure you fit a modified clutch release fork, and put plenty of grease on the ball before you fit it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3lions Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 I changed that bit when i did mine, cost about £25 genuine part. Easy enough to do just 3 bolts i think. The pivot itself is metal and the bracket bit is ally. On mine the pivot pin had worn into the bracket and was loose. The guy at the parts counter said its a modified one now, and showed me another couple where the pivot pin ball end had really worn away. Worth doing IMHO while your in there. I could find the part number out if you want. Regards, Jon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 Contact Les Henson on here (moderator of the Series Forum). He strengthens the clutch fork and paints it a nice colour too. Ivan i've got one of these forks in my garage not being used, as i'm now building a Td5 which uses a different type. It's up for grabs, FOR FREE (well, for a donation to the forum coffers...) clicky link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougstar Posted October 19, 2007 Author Share Posted October 19, 2007 S**T aint that right inside the crankshaft? i have only done the propshaft removal slide gearbox back on the cross member jobby! i was not planning on strippin that bit down, do they normally go or not? think i will have a good look at the pivot post tomorrow (booze has brought things to a abrupt halt tonight ) and make a decision then. mynew release lever has finally arrived 4 days late will think again before ordering from paddocks in future as this is the third time now in the last 5 orders anyone else had bother offa them? and should have got the re-inforced lever off les but thought i could get it quicker and do it myself off paddocks, that'll learn me wont it........... (more hast less speed i think it goes) thanks for the input guys and will keep all posted on progress and out come. dougstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason2 Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 S**T aint that right inside the crankshaft? i have only done the propshaft removal slide gearbox back on the cross member jobby! i was not planning on strippin that bit down, do they normally go or not? think i will have a good look at the pivot post tomorrow (booze has brought things to a abrupt halt tonight ) and make a decision then. mynew release lever has finally arrived 4 days late will think again before ordering from paddocks in future as this is the third time now in the last 5 orders anyone else had bother offa them? and should have got the re-inforced lever off les but thought i could get it quicker and do it myself off paddocks, that'll learn me wont it........... (more hast less speed i think it goes) thanks for the input guys and will keep all posted on progress and out come. dougstar Well it's like a prevention's better than cure do dar! Silly not to change spigot bearing (bronze bush) only 80p from Paddocks. If you are doing the clutch at the same time you should have enough room to get in there, it's just behind the clutch in the end of the crank.Got a spare one here you can have but probably quicker from pad's! Put a tie clip on the slave push rod onto fork at the same time to prevent problems if you ever have to change slave cylinder and rod dropping off Can't complain about Paddocks, cheap & get me stuff to France in 2 or 3 days,only advice I can give is you get what you pay for and I wont be getting another water pump off them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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