Gareth Dickens Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 I have to move my Ford V8 fwd about 8" to facilitate a new F250 xfer case and C6 auto box. I will have to raise my Landy by putting the axle under the leafs to clear the sump. I just need to know if there are any problems I should be aware of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 You may experience axle wrap and my general disapproval of SOA conversions Why do you have to move the axles down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 i'd keep a close eye on prop angles too, yoke binding etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted November 5, 2007 Author Share Posted November 5, 2007 i'd keep a close eye on prop angles too, yoke binding etc I would twist the axle to correct angle and then weld new pedestalls. I also intend to fit longer pedestalls (allmost as long as bottom leaf) to prevent wrap. Fridge - I have to move my existing engine fwd, because of the new gearbox and xfer case leaving only 6" to my aft diff flange. If I move the engine fwd the sump comes close to the diff and would most definitely hit if the landy were to bounce. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Attryde Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 Would it not be possible to modify the sump a little rather than move the axles? Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 Or dry sump it, or raise the engine a bit? Just how big is this engine you're trying to fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted November 6, 2007 Author Share Posted November 6, 2007 Or dry sump it, or raise the engine a bit?Just how big is this engine you're trying to fit? Ford V8 Dry sumping it is pricey. Can get another sump, but also pricey. Not to much of a difference as it has a bulge in the front too. The oil pump for the Ford motor is in the front so it has to have the front bulge. Works well though as it is. Can't really raise the Engine enough. Space limited upstairs. I also have an ENV front diff which is quite bulky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 I would twist the axle to correct angle and then weld new pedestalls. I also intend to fit longer pedestalls (allmost as long as bottom leaf) to prevent wrap. You do understand that you will need to redrill the bolt holes on the end of the axle housing, where the swivel balls attach, to restore your castor angle once you have rotated your diff? Generally the greater the distance between the main leaf and the axle centre, the more axle wrap you will get. If you have para's there should be little change in this distance when you go from spring under to spring over, but on thicker multi leaf springs it makes an appreciable difference. Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted November 6, 2007 Author Share Posted November 6, 2007 You do understand that you will need to redrill the bolt holes on the end of the axle housing, where the swivel balls attach, to restore your castor angle once you have rotated your diff? Generally the greater the distance between the main leaf and the axle centre, the more axle wrap you will get. If you have para's there should be little change in this distance when you go from spring under to spring over, but on thicker multi leaf springs it makes an appreciable difference.Bill. That is why I thought of using long (200mm/8") pedestalls on top of the axle, bent to the contour of the lower leaf to spread the load on the leafs. If I then use brackets with bolts through like on some leaf setups it will push on on side and pull on the other but further from the axle center. The torque should be spread, right? I do not plan to twist the front much, just to keep the drive flange vertical. With the new xfer case my front prop will be quite long. The rear I will have to twist up to compensate for the shorter rear prop. Do you think a long pedestall will help? I am hoping the auto box reduces the sudden loading of the drivetrain and thus the leafs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 That is why I thought of using long (200mm/8") pedestalls on top of the axle, bent to the contour of the lower leaf to spread the load on the leafs.Do you think a long pedestall will help? I am hoping the auto box reduces the sudden loading of the drivetrain and thus the leafs. I think it probably would help, possibly with a slight loss of spring flexibilty. You could always copy Fridges anti tramp bar design if axle wrap becomes a concern. You can post the copyright fee to my address and I will forward it on to him Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted November 7, 2007 Author Share Posted November 7, 2007 I think it probably would help, possibly with a slight loss of spring flexibilty. You could always copy Fridges anti tramp bar design if axle wrap becomes a concern. You can post the copyright fee to my address and I will forward it on to him I'll go check it out. As I remember there were pics. I have swapped the c6 box for a fmx which is the same inside but has a shorter xtension housing. I save 180mm(7") there. I have also found that my shocks only allow me about 15mm (1/2 " +) down travel. Now I figured out the my landies fear of axle twisters. This should be rectified by the diff under change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted November 7, 2007 Author Share Posted November 7, 2007 Has anyone had an issue with the steering arm interfering with the leafs after a soa conversion? Any solutions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
general-confusion Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 got a set for sale if anybody's interested , also gives disc front brakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Has anyone had an issue with the steering arm interfering with the leafs after a soa conversion? Any solutions? I assume you are referring to the draglink.ie, the rod that goes from the steering relay or box down to the left hand steering arm on RHD vehicles ? You could always remake the rod in the shape of a shallow Z . LandRover 101 FC's have spring over axle suspension and use a drag link shaped like that to address that problem. Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 If you wanted to end up with a F250 4x4 why not buy one? You are not going to get a lot of axle articulation with a 14' ' rear prop JMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted November 8, 2007 Author Share Posted November 8, 2007 If you wanted to end up with a F250 4x4 why not buy one? You are not going to get a lot of axle articulation with a 14' ' rear prop JMHO Nobody asked you. I was asking for helpfull coments. Yours is not. I use what I have available. I am so sorry I cannot walk into a store and buy replacement parts for spare change. I humbly apologise Thank you Bill and Fridge for helpull coments. Thank you tacr2man for wasting my time and being a doos of note. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 He does kinda have a point - if you're sticking a socking huge V8 in (which it sounds like it is given your space issues) you're going to end up with a Series body on an F250. There is such thing as overkill - personally I would be wondering if there was a halfway point between the huge new motor and the small under-powered old one. If you're still running LR axles (are you running ENV's?) then once you put your foot down with the new engine they're going to be the next casualty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted November 9, 2007 Author Share Posted November 9, 2007 He does kinda have a point - if you're sticking a socking huge V8 in (which it sounds like it is given your space issues) you're going to end up with a Series body on an F250. There is such thing as overkill - personally I would be wondering if there was a halfway point between the huge new motor and the small under-powered old one.If you're still running LR axles (are you running ENV's?) then once you put your foot down with the new engine they're going to be the next casualty. I got the landy with the v8 allready fit. I had a rover fwd diff. It died. Now have a env.had a s3 gbox.same. So new box.Just trying to fix it cheaply in such a way that the same thing doesnt break again. The engine is stil good so Ill keep it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 Gareth, sorry to upset you so much, but just trying to save you a lot of grief, I have learnt from experience, having modded many LR vehicles over the years. Ford V8 are very torquey , I dont know which you are using, 351 cleveland? land rover axles and gearboxes are not renowned for handling torque very well, experience of fitting 245 hemi in a FC with 1 ton trans and ENV axles, to name I . With the auto tranny on the ford, make sure you have good transmission cooling,as they dont last long when hot, using auto tranny will increase your axle tramp problems as when you take off the auto allows engine to go to max torque and the TC transmitts it. Just a suggestion why not extend your spring mounts downwards and leave the springs under the axle? Ideally you need to go full time 4WD to get the axles to last. series 11A box is a bit stronger than S111 . I wish you Good luck its going to be interesting for you to say the least Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted November 9, 2007 Author Share Posted November 9, 2007 Gareth, sorry to upset you so much, but just trying to save you a lot of grief, I have learnt from experience, having modded many LR vehicles over the years. Ford V8 are very torquey , I dont know which you are using, 351 cleveland? land rover axles and gearboxes are not renowned for handling torque very well, experience of fitting 245 hemi in a FC with 1 ton trans and ENV axles, to name I . With the auto tranny on the ford, make sure you have good transmission cooling,as they dont last long when hot, using auto tranny will increase your axle tramp problems as when you take off the auto allows engine to go to max torque and the TC transmitts it. Just a suggestion why not extend your spring mounts downwards and leave the springs under the axle? Ideally you need to go full time 4WD to get the axles to last. series 11A box is a bit stronger than S111 . I wish you Good luck its going to be interesting for you to say the least Yep I overreacted there,but thanks for showing interest. I have a 255 cu inch windsor, so pretty small but still big enough to kill 30 year old landy components. I dont want to do the double clutch shifting cause a s3 box was bad enough. Planning to put a very large ( almost 2nd radiator) in with it's own fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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