yourekiddingright Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 (Apart from me suggesting fitting an injectorion pump in place of the injection pump!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yourekiddingright Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 (edited) Also would an electric heat pad on the metal veg tank be prudent to (slightly) warm the veg oil for initial flow? (the pad i've seen is a keenovo 300w 240mm x 240mm) Edited January 31, 2017 by yourekiddingright Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 The amount of energy needed to heat a fuel tank is enormous, so don't bother with that. As said repeatedly above, the heat exchanger needs to be as close to the injection pump as possible, ideally immediately before it. A heated fuel filter will help in cold conditions as the thicker fuel will be restricted unless heated there too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yourekiddingright Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 2 hours ago, Snagger said: As said repeatedly above, the heat exchanger needs to be as close to the injection pump as possible, ideally immediately before it That would heat the diesel (when in diesel mode) too - is that not an issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Most decent veg systems have two circuits so that only the veg oil runs through the heated filter and heat exchanger. Its not a good idea to heat the diesel. I dont know that it needs to be right next to the FIP - once the engine is up to temp and the fuel has circulated for a while, this will actually be pretty hot in itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yourekiddingright Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 I'm chasing my tail a bit. My understanding is: Veg oil temp only needs to be warm enough to flow / keep strain on pumps to a minimum. Engine temp is key to avoid incomplete veg oil combustion (piston ring gumming and sump oil contamination etc). So..... As long as engine (started and stopped on Diesel) is up to running temp and the veg oil is able to flow (40c and above) then the system is as good as can be? If the above is true, the creases i'd like help with ironing out are: How to get the veg oil to 40c+ at point of initial switch over from diesel - veg needs heating in / just before / just after tank right? Or a heat exchanger on the veg return to hasten the warming up process perhaps? Or is this a non issue i'm trying to solve? Which order to have veg oil loop components in (mechanical pump is a pusher so everything should follow it?) Should I go for: fuel tank - dedicated veg oil mechanical pump - heated filter (to avoid gumming of the filter) - heat exchanger - solenoid - injection pump? If the dedicated veg oil pump is mechanical how do I get it to idle when the engine is running on diesel. (I don't know a lot about how they work) Cheers all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92.9 Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Blimey! Nine years since my first post. I forgot all about the vegetable oil idea! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 5 hours ago, yourekiddingright said: I'm chasing my tail a bit. My understanding is: Veg oil temp only needs to be warm enough to flow / keep strain on pumps to a minimum. Engine temp is key to avoid incomplete veg oil combustion (piston ring gumming and sump oil contamination etc). So..... As long as engine (started and stopped on Diesel) is up to running temp and the veg oil is able to flow (40c and above) then the system is as good as can be? Once the engine is to temp, the heat exchanger should be at 88C or thereabouts if you are running it off of the coolant system. Same for the heated filter head.Obviously it may be a little cooler allowing for heat losses in the pipework. So this should be fine If the above is true, the creases i'd like help with ironing out are: How to get the veg oil to 40c+ at point of initial switch over from diesel - veg needs heating in / just before / just after tank right? Or a heat exchanger on the veg return to hasten the warming up process perhaps? Or is this a non issue i'm trying to solve? As mentioned above, I dont think there is a decent way to heat the tank. I havent fitted mine yet, but I was planning lift pump, heat exchanger, heated filter then FIP (via a 6 port pollack valve that i also have) Which order to have veg oil loop components in (mechanical pump is a pusher so everything should follow it?) Should I go for: fuel tank - dedicated veg oil mechanical pump - heated filter (to avoid gumming of the filter) - heat exchanger - solenoid - injection pump? As above If the dedicated veg oil pump is mechanical how do I get it to idle when the engine is running on diesel. (I don't know a lot about how they work) You dont, It just dead heads whilst you purge on diesel briefly. This probably wont hurt it. However, i am going to fit two electric pumps. The Facet Duralift seems to cope with SVO. Have one fitted already and it has been fine for over a year - i currently run on up to 100% SVO in the warmer summer months and the pump hasnt complained. Two pumps gives me the ability to run indefinately on whichever tank i wish without dead heading a mechanical lift pump for ages as i can turn the electric pump not in use off - I plan to link them to the switches for the Pollack valve. Cheers all My solutions above in red. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Its worth adding - James put the solution up on the last page really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yourekiddingright Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 (edited) Thanks for that. Great stuff. In case it's of any use to anyone I mocked up a carling switch actuator for an on (veg) / off (diesel) / on (purge) switch body. Mud made it up (laser etched type) for a few quid. Anyone welcome to use it. Edited February 2, 2017 by yourekiddingright Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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