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I recently imported a 1984 110 to Canada. It has a disco 200 tdi engine. I've jumped through all the hoops to get it registered here in BC. Now I'm down to sorting out the last few mechanical problems which led me to this forum...

I have questions in regards to how hot this engine should run. It came with the 200 tdi temp sender but the original 4 cyl petrol gauge so the gauge would go off the scale as soon as I turned the key. I've replaced the gauge with an aftermarket model. Running it with the 200 tdi sender shows the temp at about 110 C. I'm in the middle of tapping out the 200 tdi sender so I can put the aftermarket sender in (it came with multiple thread adapters - none of which fit). The truck has a kenlowe electric fan which has been coming on frequently even though its averaging minus 10 - 15 C these days. So I'm thinking I do have temp problem. I chucked the thermostat on the stove and it opened just before the water boiled. When I squeeze my top rad hose I feel a corresponding surge in the bottom one. The rad looks to be new when they swapped engines. I turned the engine over briefly with the sender out and antifreeze came out of the hole (ie the water pump works?). Is there anything else I should be looking at? HOw tight is the belt supposed to be on this engine?

I had a mechanic replace the heater matrix as it had been leaking. Would there be a temperature problem if he hooked the heater hoses up backwards (it does produce decent hot air in the cab).

Thanks in advance for any advice

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Standard theromstat for a 200Tdi is a 88degree,

on the heater connections the hose that runs along the engine should be on the heater matrix rear [nearest bulkhead aka firewall] connection & hose from cylinder head to the forward connection.

modding the existing temp sender here best to use the sender that matches the new gauge, or use the original gauge with the Defender 200Tdi engine sender LR part PRC8593 -- Not the Discovery one

Alternator belt should be tight, so when you try to move the longest clear run of the belt it shouldn't deflect past 13mm from it's normal running position & should be able to just turn it to 90 degree from it's noramal running position.

hope that helps

:D

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well my belt is definitely too loose and thanks for the direction on the heater hoses - couldn't find that in my haynes book

Great thread on adapting the sender - wish I would have read that before I took it to the machinist...

Once I get the sender back I'll take her for a run and see if all this has helped

cheers

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i would get the gauge sorted first but if the fan is still coming on at -10 then i would have thought you either have a temp issue or the fan sender is knackered - if its a kenlow one then thats highly possible, if the gauge reads ok but the fan still cuts in the either mount the fan on switch or repalce th sender i would try it with an X-Eng one, even posted out to you would still be good value i would have thought.

of of interest when i connected a 300tdi sender upto a 2.5 petrol gauge it worked bang on! but best to get the right sender in there.

once the gauge is sorted try getting the fan belt as Ralph describes although even if its slightly loose, unless its slipping alot, it will still turn the water pump as you have found so i dont think thats the issue.

i would have thought a tdi would run with no fan on where you are, especially as mine does here for most of the year!

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Standard theromstat for a 200Tdi is a 88degree,

on the heater connections the hose that runs along the engine should be on the heater matrix rear [nearest bulkhead aka firewall] connection & hose from cylinder head to the forward connection.

Only if it is right hand drive.

Left hand drive is the other way around.......

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  • 1 month later...
on the heater connections the hose that runs along the engine should be on the heater matrix rear [nearest bulkhead aka firewall] connection & hose from cylinder head to the forward connection.

Why, cos the flow of water would be the same direction wheter right or left hand drive, the matrix won't know any different. & the hoses on the engine are at the same location regardless of L or R drive.

OK, I've just looked at the manual and your description is backwards. The feed hose (from the rear of the engine) should go to the heater core nearest the bulkhead. The return hose (feeds back near the thermostat) should be from the farthest from the bulkhead. This ensures the heater is counterflow which will gives slightly more heat.

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So this is the right way round? hard to make out on your picture Ralph.

Based on the way I understand the drawing in the parts catalog, that is backwards. It also makes more sense from a heat exchanger persepctive to have it the other way around.

post-608-1204654034_thumb.jpg

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So this is the right way round? hard to make out on your picture Ralph.

DSC_5667.jpg

My heater hoses are connected the same as Gromits, hose from cylinder head to front heater pipe & hose from steel pipe alongside rocker cover to rear heater pipe :D

Plus your heater matrix is a later 300Tdi item with the straight pipes. :D

post-20-1204661943_thumb.jpg

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Yep, that's what my EPC says. & I have the same paper parts book as you, so that says as per the page above, as mines a '89 vehicle it has the curved pipes/hoses & later maybe 200Tdi vehicles changed to the straight pipes/hoses.

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