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Discovery 1996 starting problem


johninfront

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it doesn't matter if its direct or indirect they will ALWAYS start better from cold with full throttle. just try it for yourself or ask any trucker as all HGVS are direct injection and if you listen to anyone starting a truck in the morning youll hear that this is how they start them.but if you just want to turn the key and hope for the best then good luck.

I think you are referring to the older cav and simmens pumps, where full throttle would be applied and a quick pull on a 'cold start cable' would trip the excess fuel plunger , which is then only cleared by allowing the engine to rev out a little, a caring driver would usually crank the engine for a few seconds first to get the oil moving, an uncaring driver would just crack it up and rev it flat out :( I've seen crankshafts that have turned blue from such idiots <_<

First thing in the morning do you jump out of bed and run to work, no clothes, breakfast and unbrushed teeth, no didn't think so, you need a stretch and a bit of an amble round the bathroom, stairs, and kitchen, allows your body to warm up a bit, engines are no different, start them on little or no throttle ( read the manual is the best way), and when they go give them just enough so they don't idle irregular, then take it easy for the first few minutes ;)

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Things to check, not trying to teach you to suck eggs mind :ph34r:

Power at the glow plugs, don't just rely on the dash light, check it at the plugs, and check the plugs

fuel pipes especially sender pipes on the tank, cracks and air getting in?

Pump timing?? a few degrees out will make a lot of difference on an auto

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as soon as you turn the key from pre-heat position to starter position that cuts off the power to the glow plugs.

I'm pretty sure it doesn't, they stay on until the relay clicks, or unitl you press the throttle.

Also on the EDC models the ECU won't allow you to decide how much fuel to put in, so it ignores the throttle position sensor until it's started so it won't do you any good any way

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OK well if you don't believe me here is the relevant passage from the Defender Tdi owners manual:

"Before starting the engine and driving,

ENSURE you are familiar with the precautions

shown under ’Catalytic converter’ later in this

section.

In particular, you should be aware that

continued use of the starter will result in

unused fuel damaging the catalytic converter.

1. Check that the handbrake is applied and

that the gear lever is in neutral.

2. Switch off all unnecessary electrical

equipment.

3. Insert the starter key and turn the switch

to position ’II’. Wait until the glow plug

warning light extinguishes.

NOTE: When restarting a warm engine, it will

not be necessary to wait for the glow plug

warning light to extinguish.

4. Turn the key to position ’III’ to operate the

starter motor; DO NOT press the

accelerator pedal during starting, and

RELEASE THE KEY as soon as the engine

is running."

I think the last paragraph confirms my comments as I would have thought the people who built it ought to know what they are talking about. It should not be necessary on a properly functioning engine and if it is, then something is not right!

well READ ON TO PART 3 AND YOU WILL SEE IT STATES IN COLD CLIMATES OR WHERE AMBIENT TEMPERATURE HAS DROPPED FULLY DEPRESS ACCELERATOR PEDAL WHILE OPERATING STARTER THIS WILL AID STARTING THEN RELEASE ACCELERATOR WHEN ENGINE STARTS .

ALL OF YOU WHO AGREED WITH BOGMASTER SHOULD FOLLOW THIS LINK AND LEARN SOMETHING.

http://www.ownerinfo.landrover.com/extfree...76259/index.htm

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I'm pretty sure it doesn't, they stay on until the relay clicks, or unitl you press the throttle.

Also on the EDC models the ECU won't allow you to decide how much fuel to put in, so it ignores the throttle position sensor until it's started so it won't do you any good any way

yes I am wrong about glow plugs they do stay on for a set period even after engine has started but the accelerator does put more fuel in to enable cold starting which is the recomended way in cold weather.

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well READ ON TO PART 3 AND YOU WILL SEE IT STATES IN COLD CLIMATES OR WHERE AMBIENT TEMPERATURE HAS DROPPED FULLY DEPRESS ACCELERATOR PEDAL WHILE OPERATING STARTER THIS WILL AID STARTING THEN RELEASE ACCELERATOR WHEN ENGINE STARTS .

ALL OF YOU WHO AGREED WITH BOGMASTER SHOULD FOLLOW THIS LINK AND LEARN SOMETHING.

http://www.ownerinfo.landrover.com/extfree...76259/index.htm

5 things:

1) your link doesn't work...

2) what you refer to isn't mentioned in the user manual I was referring to because I just checked

3) it might add fuel but it doesn't alter the fact that it shouldn't be necessary in temperate climates and on an engine that is working properly even if it is recommended for starting at -30 deg C - England was "temperate" last time I was there - it is colder here most of the time and my Tdi springs into life at freezing or a few degrees below with no problems as do all the others I drive on a regular basis (about 10)

4) your caps lock key appears to be stuck

5) who is Bogmaster anyway? :P

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yes I am wrong about glow plugs they do stay on for a set period even after engine has started but the accelerator does put more fuel in to enable cold starting which is the recomended way in cold weather.

not on the edc model it doesn't

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Anyway as I am bored with arguing about who is right, and back to the original question....

Somewhere in the dark recesses of my mind I have a thought that the potentiometers for the electronic diesels contain an "idle switch" which tells the engine that the throttle is closed (because it is a bit unreliable working on the resistance value from the pot). When the throttle is at less than X% it will go to idle. I haven't checked this in the book but perhaps a dodgy idle switch could cause the problem.

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Ive encounted this problem on 1998 300tdi auto as well,we spent hours fiddling with egr ,edc etc before we eventually sussed it by accident!!!.The easiest way to check to see if its the ignition switch is to put hi/lo diff lock in neutral handbrake on,turn key to start-dont release and select drive this will disengage the starter and if its the ignition switch it will tick over, release the switch and the engine will stop.I just disconnected switch from the barrel and liberaly washed it inside with WD40 and packed it with grease.Hope this helps.Also advancing the pump by a degree or two will help it tickover better when cold.

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  • 8 months later...
Hi Guys,

Got a 1996 300 tdi, the problem is starting from cold, fires when cranking, as soon as you let go of the key is cuts out, if you hold the starter in & catch it on the throttle, vehicle will run, turn it off & same problem again until engine warm - then ok.

Any ideas??

Cheers

John

Having had no starting problems on my 1996 Disco 300tdi I have now had the same problem as you - difficulty in starting when cold.

I checked the voltage to the glow plugs and as all was ok so I took out and checked each Glow Plug - only one was partially working. Each should literally glow red hot after 5 - 10 seconds. Only one of mine did anything and only then just about got touch hot.

Dump them all and get some new ones - the Bosch ones are really great and she fires up now almost before a full crank!!

You can get some really cheap (equivalent) ones on Ebay but I felt that after 12 1/2 years she hadn't done too badly on the first set...and there is always the question of reliability when you need it most.

Paul

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Don't fit 'County' glow plugs - they last about 6 months and I have one permanently in no 1 after it sheared off. The OEM BERU plugs last the longest but are not cheap. You get what you pay for. Cheaper for me because now I only need 3 :)

One thing that has always amazed me about the glow plug setup on the 300tdi is that the stupid idiot light has nothing whatsoever to do with the operation of the glow plugs. You have to listen for the relay - when that clicks the glows are off. So those who say 'I never use the glow plugs' are actually using them whether they want to or not. The only way to not use the glows at all is to physically disconnect them.

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One thing that has always amazed me about the glow plug setup on the 300tdi is that the stupid idiot light has nothing whatsoever to do with the operation of the glow plugs.

That is true but to be fair it's the same on every diesel car I've ever owned. I used to have a 306 dturbo (big mistake) and on cold mornings the starter didn't have enough power to turn if the glows were still on, so I used to have to wait until I heard the click, on cold mornings it was about 30 seconds after the glow plug light went out. Started perfectly if I waited. Tried the same thing on my 300tdi auto and it made no difference!

Agree OEM Beru plugs are the best to go for, when I bought a set they didn't seem to be much more than blue box ones.

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