bushwhacker Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 I think the 110 2.5na needs a clutch, I have had look at the Haynes bible book of Land Rovers and it recommends to take out the engine to do the clutch. Now far be it for me to question Haynes but I would like a second opinion is this the best/easyest (for want of better words) way to do the clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Neale Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 I think the 110 2.5na needs a clutch, I have had look at the Haynes bible book of Land Rovers and it recommends to take out the engine to do the clutch. Now far be it for me to question Haynes but I would like a second opinion is this the best/easyest (for want of better words) way to do the clutch. Different people have different ways of working - depends on the tools and facilities available. I've done Land Rover clutches various ways now. I've now settled on gearbox out using engine crane into the passenger side - less to strip out than the engine out method, you don't have to remove the seat box, and safer than dropping the box using a jack underneath. I reckon on no more than about a half day now (say about 4 hours) to change a complete clutch assy. I always fit a complete 3 piece clutch and new release arm. Takes a bit longer if you have to change any of the hydraulics etc, but not too bad. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigwood Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 I think the 110 2.5na needs a clutch, I have had look at the Haynes bible book of Land Rovers and it recommends to take out the engine to do the clutch. Now far be it for me to question Haynes but I would like a second opinion is this the best/easyest (for want of better words) way to do the clutch. Not one to knock the haines manual but its not always the best sorce of information for us DIY Landy people. Box off engine is the only way I would recomend for a clutch change. I have done 2A,s in the feild in my youth. Once you get the floor plates off you can get all round the box to pull it back. The only tricky bit is balancing it on a trolly jack or suporting it from a crane as the main and transfer boxes together are an odd shape. I am shure someone on our web site will give the finer points of the job on a more modern Landy than I have done clutches on . I am now on a Disco and probly by looking for info on the job some day. To gat the box out of some of our buses you have to take the whole back of the bus off, thats not for the faint hearted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted March 21, 2008 Author Share Posted March 21, 2008 I am glad I asked the question. I think I will use the gear box out method. I have a hoist and trolly jack. It did seem to be the most logical way to go. The bite on the clutch does not bite until the pedal is fully out. Does this suggest the clutch is on its way out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 The gearbox out or engine out argument will go on forever. I use the gearbox out method - mostly because I always have to do it myself at a customers house/place of work/pub car park, so I'm used to and familiar with this method. The problem with taking the engine out is that you still have to remove the floor plates and transmission tunnel - which generally is a right pain to do. With the gearbox out method you only need an axle stand and a trolley jack - which a lot of people that do their own home mechanics are likely to have anyway. An engine hoist is a relatively expensive thing to buy (but you can hire them). Engine out method involves disconnecting the exhaust - which is known for manifold studs shearing, plus disconnecting the fuel and electrical system, so although some people find it easier to do it that way - I think you interfere with more than if you just removed the box and did it. Sliding the gearbox back on the crossmember only gives you about 6-inches of room to replace the clutch, etc, whereas taking the engine out gives you considerably more. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 I followed Les's thread removed floor panels released gearbox/transfer box/crawler box lowered and dragged it rearwards I replaced the clutch and had the fywheel off for skimming plenty of room to work and straight forward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted March 21, 2008 Author Share Posted March 21, 2008 just on the clutch does long travel on the pedal suggest the clutch is on its way out? It does not bite until fully out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 Bite at the bottom is mostly a clutch hydraulics problem. Bite at the top of the pedal travel is worn clutch (it will slip eventually). This is assuming your clutch is adjusted properly. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 Les & myself used his gearbox moved back method to change my clutch nearly 2 years ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted March 22, 2008 Author Share Posted March 22, 2008 I have the rod at the m/cyl with the nuts out to the end, (any more and they would fall off). I have had it adjusted all the way in and half way up the rod at these positions I have no clutch. There,s only about 95,000 on the clock but I suppose a bit of off roading would cause the clutch to wear quicker. The Haynes is ok, but it is better to ask people who have been there done that. Thanks guys for the replies ps Which clutch kit is the best and are there any mods that can be done at this stage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted April 5, 2008 Author Share Posted April 5, 2008 Managed to get the 110 to the MOT centre with its dodgey clutch. Failed on a worn ball joint on the steering bar and a washer on the bottom of the rear shock rusting away the nuts pulling though it and up into the rubber bushings. It looked like there was no nuts on it. Two new ball joints and 2 washers and still a dodgey clutch she passed. The guy was able to see the work had been done and had no need to drive it. I got my MOT with the clutch just about shot as I neared home. Is the clutch from a 2.5td the same as a 2.5na Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 2.5 n/a diesel clutch parts friction plate FTC2149 [superseded by FTC4204 pressure cover URB100760 release bearing FTC9568 superseded by FTC5200 2.5TD clutch parts as above Note the cover is common to 200Tdi vehicles & you should be able to fit the heavy duty friction plate FTC1994 as used on heavy duty 110's & all 130's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted April 6, 2008 Author Share Posted April 6, 2008 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted April 14, 2008 Author Share Posted April 14, 2008 I am close to changing the clutch on my 110 csw 2.5 na. I will try to get an old imput shaft of my local L R place but if I ca'nt I have a few questions. What length and diameter does the rod or round dowel need to be that lines up the new clutch? Is there any set torque on any of the bolts that will need to go back in or will ones own judgement do? He says sounding very royal. When the gearbox and engine mate up will I need a gasket or silicone seal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 14, 2008 Share Posted April 14, 2008 clutch cover bolts to flywheel 34Nm clutch housing to gearbox bolts 72Nm no gasket/silicone sealant used, just a metal to metal joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WALFY Posted April 14, 2008 Share Posted April 14, 2008 Well I'm for taking the engine out. Trying to support a gearbox on axle stands/trolley jack isn't for me. I have access to an engine hoist so unbolt undo a few bolts and unclip a few cables and it all pops out. Horses for courses I suppose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thon Posted April 14, 2008 Share Posted April 14, 2008 I once replaced the clutch on my old N/A diesel 90 by using the box-out technique and the rack of my 5 foot hi-lift strung between the dashboard top (protecting the windscreen with a rag) and my wooden toolbox in the back. I think (it was a few years ago) we took out the floor and seatbox but the advantage was most of the work was done in the dry cab. We used a chain hoist to lower the main and transfer box to the ground (whilst clutch fiddling) with a bottle jack under the sump and it worked a treat. Best of luck whichever way you choose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 I did one recently, and instead of totally removing the box, just slid it back a few inches - just enough to remove the old clutch. Then put the new one in, pinch the bolts up just a teeny bit so the clutch can be moved inside the outer plate, and get someone to slowly rotate the crank nut with a ratchet spanner while making sure the edge of the clutch plate is exactly equidistant with the edge of the outer. Bolt it up tight, slide the gearbox back and bob's yer uncle. You do need to remove the floor panels and also the covers on top of the gearbox that retain the transfer lever or they foul the seatbox. Use a good trolley jack or two under the gearbox - it's quite ungainly when removed and will also tend to rotate with the weight of the transfer box - a bottle jack can help here, and unless you have a real smooth floor perhaps put some ply down to help it slide a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=4380 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 I dropped the gearbox, no need to remove the floor panels either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted April 15, 2008 Author Share Posted April 15, 2008 What length and diameter rod do I need to line up the clutch? Are all Land Rover imput shafts the same? Hand brake, do'es it need to come off or not. Sorry about all the questions but it will keep me from going in blind. Thanks for all the very useful information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 If you are using the gearbox back method, then the handbrake can stay on and it must be applied as the jack supports the transfer case on the brake drum and if the brake isn't on, it may roll off the jack cup - which is quite interesting I use an old input shaft to align the clutch, so don't know the diameters - sorry. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted April 15, 2008 Author Share Posted April 15, 2008 I have been given a bushng for the diameter and told 6 to 8 inches in length should be ok by my local LR place. I have use of an engine hoist it should help things along. I am in the process of the mod to the series front brakes putting the bleed nipple to the top great tip by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted May 3, 2008 Author Share Posted May 3, 2008 Job almost completed just the floor panels to go in. I have been able to test it and all seems ok selecting gears in hi/low diff lock light on and even the reversing light still works. Thanks for all the information guys I found this forum a great source for help. Roll on an engine swop on the Lightweight like for like, finges crossed for a good result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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