richardthestag Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 Ok another job I wish I hadn’t started Car is a 93 harddash 3.9 EFI with LPG All I was doing was tightening up the PAS belt, but to get to the two pivot bolts I had to remove the alternator, dizzy cap and the following bits… I found that the rotor was stuck solid. I held the dizzy shaft with a screw driver and assaulted the rotor with a pair of pliers (the rotor snapped into two bits !!! Never mind I have a spare genuine rotor in the garage.) Why was I pulling the rotor? So I could get the plastic cover inside the dizzy out of the way and gain an extra 2mm of clearance for the back PAS pivot bolt. I also had to remove the two pin wire to the ignition amplifier on the dizzy to get to the front pivot bolt. FFS Oh and by the way the monsoon promised was now underway. Adjusted the PAS belt, replaced the alternator, rebuilt the dizzy and attempted to start and it doesn’t fire. Check for spark at the coil and it is pretty strong Then check for a spark at a plug and again no problems here nice healthy spark. So why will it not start p.s. Cap and Rotor are genuine plugs are 5k old and new leads went on at the same time. I have LPG but it relies upon activity at the coil before it will activate. Any idea how I can see if it starts on LPG alone? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 We you replaced te Rotor arm after the snap, did you check it never moved from it's postion? If not check and make sure it's sitting in the right postion via TDC (i'm assuming you know what that is) If not get back to us. I'm not very clued up on all this stuff but when i was re-doing my dizzy as the bobweights and springs had come loose, I needed to check with TDC that the rotor arm was about to fire at piston number one. It wasn't and we had to undo the dizzy again as it was out by 180 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 Are all the leads back in the right place on the alternator? Not sure on this but I think the ECU takes a pulse from the alt to know the engine is turning over. Disturbing the bob weights is also high on the list despite your attempts to avoid it. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted March 29, 2008 Author Share Posted March 29, 2008 We you replaced te Rotor arm after the snap, did you check it never moved from it's postion?If not check and make sure it's sitting in the right postion via TDC (i'm assuming you know what that is) If not get back to us. I'm not very clued up on all this stuff but when i was re-doing my dizzy as the bobweights and springs had come loose, I needed to check with TDC that the rotor arm was about to fire at piston number one. It wasn't and we had to undo the dizzy again as it was out by 180 degrees. Hi DC Thanks, I didn't remove the dizzy just the cap and rotor. I have done that bob weight thing before and found that the dizzy cap wouldn't go back on if the bobweights were out.. I think they are ok. I am now more convinced that I have disabled the efi which I believe is fed from the black / white wire on the low tension side of the coil. I'll be back out in the pouyring rain soon. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 I am now more convinced that I have disabled the efi which I believe is fed from the black / white wire on the low tension side of the coil. It is, and you probably have then without this the ECU doesn't know the engine is turning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 I have done that bob weight thing before and found that the dizzy cap wouldn't go back on if the bobweights were out. Oh yes it can! As to how I know that....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 Oh yes it can! As to how I know that....... Would that have stopped it starting. the beast runs again but I haven't the foggiest what I did to get it going. I set the LPG to emergency and it wouldn't start, I ran 12v to the LPg soilenoids and all three happily clacked at me and still no starting. I went into full diagnosis nmode with multimeter and could find no fault. Check the air gap and that was ok, no adjustment needed. I did check that the rotor turned and sprang back which it did. As per yesterday the HT spark from the coil cleared a good 15mm so I assumed that the LT / HT side of things was in rude health. Maybe have a dry joint somewhere on the LT side of things, so I shall replace all the ends and take it from their. Fun and games but nice and sunny today Many thanks for all the suggestions from everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 Yes, it would stop it starting. Having read another forum I note that you solved the problem by using that most useful of tools, a 9 year old. They can solve most computery electrickery type faults far better than grown-ups Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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