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Track Rod Guard fitment


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Hi all,

I've bought a track rod guard of the type made by WVA Holdings, sold by Safari equip, OEC, and I'm told, Scorpion.

I saw a fitting guide, think it was a pdf, before I bought it. But now it's arrived I can't find it! None has come with it, so I was hoping someone on here has seen one.

Looking at the guard it's fairly self explanitory, but I want to know I am doing it right, not think I am.

Cheers

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i had one on my disco, got me stuck so many times i ripped it off, almost used the grinder to take it off..... anyway the guard fits on the bolts at the front of the hocky sticks,, aka radius arms, then there should be a plate that bolts above the bracket for the steering damper tho i understand its on a different place on a defender. hope that helps..

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I finally got a 24mm spanner and socket, started to undo the radius arm bolt that needs to be removed to fit the guard, but when I took the nut off, the bolt would not move through the bush and come free. I am guessing the vehicle has a lot of weight on it?

How do you remove the bolts, will the vehicle move at all with just the rear (of the front two, not the chasis bolt) bolt removed? Anything I should be aware of? What torque setting does the bolt need to be done up to when reassembling?

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Ben,

The radius arm bolt should come out relatively easily, certanly a little persuasion with a hammer should shift it. It might help to support the nose of the diff with a bottle jack whilst you do it, but I have removed complete radius arms with no other support.

I suspect that the problem you have is that the inner sleeve of the bush has rusted onto the bolt. Belting the bolt may free it, but when it happened to me all that did was bend the axle bracket on the other side :blink::( .

Only solution in that case is a grinder with a thin disc and cut the bolt I'm affraid.

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Ben

Sam :P

Yeah I'm going to give it more of a go tomorow, been talking it over with Mr. Neale and I think I've got an idea of what I'm doing. I don't think it can be rusty as the bushes were changed quite recently, but it is possible as the bolts were not replaced. I'll just have to give it a go and see.

Thanks for the advice, it may come in very handy, but I hope you're wrong about the cutting disc - I don't have one!

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Hi Sam

If you are going to give the bolt a little persuasion with a hammer then leave the nut on the very end of it to protect the treads from being damaged by the hammer.

You should be able to get the bolt out without too much difficulty even without jacking the diff etc- unless as bish says it has rusted to the inner sleeve- you may need some choice swear words if that is the case... I would imagine that you only need to knock it back a bit and not take it right out?- It will be easier to get back in if you dont have to take it all the way out as the axle will probably twist slightly if it comes out completely.

In relation to the torque figure- PFT is what I use (P= pretty and T= tight... I am sure you can figure out the rest!)

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Unfortunately it does indeed need to come all the way out, the guard's holes are closed so it's the only way. To be fair I haven't yet tried to hit it with a hamer, only pulling quite hard, I wanted to make sure upon pulling it out nothing was going to fall apart first. I know the two bolts on each radius arm holds the axle to the car but I didn't know what happens when only one is removed though.

I'll keep to the PFT method then, last thing I want is it coming VFL on the motorway.

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Hmm. I was all set to fit the guard on mine tonight, so I'll leave until the weekend I think. Post back giving us the full SP on how difficult it was if you can. My bolts need to come all the way out as they are set from the inside looking out. Which means if a date with the hammer is called for, that I have less room to swing it. Thanks, previous owner !

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Bish - your think of Ben (Redben) as opposed to Sam., similar trucks (well both blue 90s.....)

Sam - if you cant do it bring it here to mine and we will sort it.

Bolts may be tight depending how the radius arms are and any cant on the axle. As suggested place a nut on the end of the bolt and drift them out, a pry bar between the axle mounting and the radius arms will also help. you may need a jack and pry bar and hammer to get them back in (ie 3 hands!)

Post up a picture of your guard - think its probably similar to min.

Have fun

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Cheers James, I might need a bit of help.

So far I've taken both the bolts off and tried to fit the guard. The problem is, the guard seems wider than the brackets holding the bushes in place, but oddly enough only on one side and it's not the side that I know has bent brackets. I don't think this has pushed the guard over either, as the diff mounting bracket is lined up with the bolt holes on the diff itself. It is only out by 2 or 3 mm at most, but it's enough to stop me from being able to fit it.

Also, the bent bracket is because the polybushes aren't fitting tight into the radius arm, I got it fitted at a lr specialist so I guess they couldn't do any better than they did. This means that the bolt going in to the bracket is really tight as the holes on the bracket and that of the polybush don't line up exactly. I've tried to show it in the pictures but it might not be clear.

mountingbracket1.jpg

mountingbracket2.jpg

mountingbracket3.jpg

mountingbracket4.jpg

mountingbracket5.jpg

mountingbracket6.jpg

What are these for? They're the wrong size to go anywhere I can think of.

mountingbracket7.jpg

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I've tried hitting various bits with the hammer and nothing is happening, I still can't get the guard to move over, so I started putting the bolts back together so it was at least drivable, but now the misalignment on the bracket and polybush is stopping it from being able to be put back in at all. I think getting a hammer onto it would help, but because the bolt is so long, there is no room between it and the diff. Basically I'm a bit buggered!

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Small bolts to hold part of it onto the diff nose? not sure as dont know the setup of that guard but alot of them seem to line up as well.

use an parallel punch, pry bar etc and tap the bolts back through levering as you go. a jack under the radius arm can help to pivot the arm around to get the bolt holes to line up.

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The bolts are too big for the diff nose.

I lifted the radius arm and it made it worse, lowered the vehicle and the bolt just slid right in. At least it's drivable now, but I still don't know what to do about the guard. How can you push a bush further into the radius arm? I was tempted to try to bend the guard's arm so it was able to clear the circular plate that's stopping it being in line, but I think that will only weaken the guard as well as being a bodge.

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I know this isn't much consolation, but I got my kit from Gwyn Lewis which included the angled brackets for the front of the radius arm. The bolts needed persuading to come out, but as the weight of the vehicle was on axle stands on the chassis, we used the jack or a crowbar on the radius arms to assist in the lining up. Had to swap the bolts over as they were pointing out the way (they now point in the way instead). All went well in the end, but a top tip is to fit the track rod ends in first before bolting any of it up, it makes it a little easier.

post-4925-1212865651_thumb.jpg

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I had a similar problem getting the bolts and nuts in place.. You must adjust, hit sideways up over and at various angles the whole time ..minimize the whacking else it might lose thread and that will be another headache..... Also try lifting the front axel? Took a day to finally get it into place..

Guard looks like this

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll194/d...ntallook003.jpg

Good luck

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My guard is a U channel that fits on the other side of the axle. It's a bit like Lansalot's but mounts differently.

The bolts on the radius arms aren't the problem, it's all bolted together and drivable now, the only problem is making the guard fit. Some help from James tomorow should sort it!

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