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Not a great start!


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This is not my first defender but I decided to take the leap and go for a TD5 (the others have been 200 and 300 tdi).

Problem No.1

When driving in any gear, full throttle causes the engine to stutter or judder. I have no idea where to start with this problem. Any advice welcome and needed!

Problem No.2

Going well today on a trip to the coast. Doing 60 in 5th gear p a long hill on the motorway when suddenly the temp shoots right up and off the scale!

Pull over to fine the underside of the bonnet and top of the drivers side wing covered in oily water and a large v shaped split in the hose coming from the water tank.

The cap of the water tank had a small amount of mayo on it which i'm guessing is going to be bad news for me. No mayo on the top of the oil cap though.

It has done 133500 miles and has been serviced regularly. I have only had it a few days and this is just the start of the problems!

Any advice please chaps..

Matt.

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Problem could be either the throttle potentiometer or oil in the loom. Pull the red plug off the ecu and check for oil. Plenty of posts on this. Throttle pot will need hooking up to diagnostic gear to check. Neither are the end of the world.

Problem 2 is just bad luck. Check rest of your hoses to see if they are soft or chafing.

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my gauge shoots up on my 200tdi and i know others that do it,what to do is quite technical..raise your right hand..extend finger and give to or 3 hard wraps as your driving on the temp guage,hope that solves that at least...landrover temp guages are not to trust worthy,i get this problem every day,if its not that then flush the radiator check thermostat,pipes err thats about my limit...hope you gets on okay

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Problem could be either the throttle potentiometer or oil in the loom. Pull the red plug off the ecu and check for oil. Plenty of posts on this. Throttle pot will need hooking up to diagnostic gear to check. Neither are the end of the world.

Problem 2 is just bad luck. Check rest of your hoses to see if they are soft or chafing.

Great advice. I have checked the ecu and there is oil all over the red plug. So i guess a new engine loom will be needed for that problem. I did give it a swill out with some cleaner but it has not made any difference.

As for the pipe, I guess you are saying its best to replace it, check for any others that look past their best and keep an eye on it?

Thanks,

Matt.

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Great advice. I have checked the ecu and there is oil all over the red plug. So i guess a new engine loom will be needed for that problem. I did give it a swill out with some cleaner but it has not made any difference.

As for the pipe, I guess you are saying its best to replace it, check for any others that look past their best and keep an eye on it?

Thanks,

Matt.

You don't normally need a new engine loom...

Usually you can just replace the injector loom (part number AMR6103) which is about £40 from a main dealer (most dealers keep them in stock!!).

The injector loom takes about 30 mins to change - it is just a case of unbolting the rocker cover and swapping the harness - making sure the rocker cover gasket is seated correctly when you replace the cover. Also - make sure all the plugs locate/latch correctly on the injectors!!

Then you will need to clean the red plug (at the ECU end) with brake or electrical cleaner - this will have to be repeated for a number of weeks until it stays clean.

It is also worth uncliping the plug from the crank sensor and giving this a clean, as I've found in the past oil can sit here and cause problems.

Going back to problem number 1 -

This sounds like you are possibly hitting the boost limit/overboosting. The most common cause of this is the actuator (or the waste gate that the actuator controls) is seized. You can check this by putting a set of molegrips (or similar) onto the actuator and try and make the wastegate open (so try to extend the actuator towards the bulkhead). There will be some resistance if working correctly... but if you can't move it at all, then it's seized.

There are a couple of other possible causes - but really you need to check it plugged into some diagnostic kit, and check for faults.

Where in the world are you?? - fill you location in ;)

Anywhere near the Midlands, or surrounding areas (or even Humberside/Lincoln way) I can help if need.

Ian

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oil in the injector harness is a common problem right up to 2004MY defender Td5. Although LR claims they sorted out the problem in the MY 2000 Td5.

It usually starts to happen after 100k, or even as early as 80k. If you don't catch it in time, you end up with what you got and you have to replace the entire harness. If you're in the middle of the bushes, then you need to simply clean the contact and reseat the harness everytime the MIL lights or the engine starts to do erratic things. It's not the end of the world. if left alone, oil effectively seeps into the PCB of the ECU and screws it up, hence you'll need a new ECU after sometime. What I have done, is to effective insert another terminal block by splicing the harness. This prevents future oil coming down the line and screwing up the ECU.

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Thanks all.

I am going to get a injector loom today and clean up the red plug. I am also going to do what Andrew has and place a connector block between the plug and the loom to prevent more oil reaching the ecu. I will also test the actuator as suggested by Porny. I am in Kent by the way but thanks for the kind offer Ian.

I will also get a new pipe to replace the burst one and refill the system. Run it to get it warm and check for bubbles in the header tank, smell for combustion gasses and give the pipes a squeeze to check the pressure.

I will report back when its done.

Thanks all, I would be lost without this forum!

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Also, bear in mind that the temp guage on the TD5 is not linear, it is stepped, so it does suddenly switch between readings. Lord knows why they made it that way though. I would prefer to be able to watch a guage as it reacts to temperature change rather than have a surprise overheat.

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I wont be getting new pipe until tomorrow so I wrapped insulation tape around the split and filled it back up. Just been out on a 1 hour drive around town in traffic and no problems so I guess it was a weak point on the pipe.

Picked up an injector loom and going to fit it this afternoon..

Keep tunned :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got most thing sorted now. I replaced the pipe, flushed the coolant system and all seems ok after 500 Miles.

Still have the kangaroo or stutter problem though. Seems to be intermittent. Could this be a turbo problem?

Where can I find the turbo actuator? I want to get a pair of grips on it like porny suggested?

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