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Timing Help


Guest WALFY
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Stripped the front off the other day to cure an oil leak. Now that I have it all buttoned up it won't start. I turned the engine over by hand when the belt was fitted, nothing bound up so I assumed all was well. Left it for 2 days as I had other stuff to do. Went out this morning topped up the water and tensioned all the belts. Tried to start it and it turns over but won't start. I have power at the fuel solonoid. And some smoke out the exhaust. I can only think that I have messed the timing up. But if I have it to far out won't things bind up and not allow the engine to turn?

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I understand that they bend rods but if it turned over by hand then surely I wouldn't have the effort to bend rods by hand, it would come to a stop.

Yes. Fateful mistake of doing it without David there :o:o .

Will strip it all down again tomorrow. :( .

Bloody LR :(:(

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.....

so I assumed all was well.

......

^^^^ That's the thing I'd say you did wrong :)

After you tensioned the cam belt and turned the engine over by hand you should have started the engine and stopped it after you see it starts and all looks ok with the belt and sounds ok (let it idle say no more than 20 secs, usually 5 secs are enough). Don't worry about the coolant, just be careful not to leave a spanner on the main pulley bolt and check for other things/parts that may fall/slide upon engine start and interfere with the exposed timing parts.

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We have a phrase at work. Assumption is the mother of all F Ups.

Looks like a nice afternoon tomorrow stripping it all down. Maybe I should pull the rocker cover to confirm the pushrods are all intact. Before I pull the front of the engine off another time this week.

Perhaps I should sell it and buy a Lardcruiser :o

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We have a phrase at work. Assumption is the mother of all F Ups.

Looks like a nice afternoon tomorrow stripping it all down. Maybe I should pull the rocker cover to confirm the pushrods are all intact. Before I pull the front of the engine off another time this week.

Perhaps I should sell it and buy a Lardcruiser :o

Walfy,

Pull the front cover and double check the timing. If the pump timing is a little off it won't run - end of. I bet that's all it is.

Matt

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I very much doubt you have bent the push rods.

One tooth out on the pump and it will run roughly and smoke a lot, I bet you find its a couple of teeth out.

Take the front cover off and re-time it, as previously mentioned you can start it to check its right before reassembly.

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I must admit trying to hold the belt in place while I shove the tensioner in place, hold the belt on the cam pulley, hold the belt on the FIP and the crank pulley and tension the belt and do the bolt up. I only had 2 hands and my teeth so it could quite possible be out :(

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It is easy to get the belt a tooth out on the crank pulley and then it won't start. Like Cipx2 above, I always start the engine with the cover and damper off, if it fires I stop it instantly. If it don't fire the timing is out. Saves lots of time putting it back together and then taking it all apart again.

I have trained our mechanics to do this now, they think it is most clever. They wouldn't have done it off their own bat just in case the engine exploded or something.

ps if you are a tooth out on the camshaft pulley the engine will start and run, but not as well as it should do. The one and only time I let a LR stealer near my engine they did this. I fixed it 60 000 kms later at the next belt change.

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When we did the original timing chest changeover my bro in law started it up, after turning it over by hand. I just skipped the running bit :( . Oh well nevermind. At least I can strip it down in about 20mins now. I've had enough practice this last week :P .

Thanks for all the advice/help :rolleyes::rolleyes:

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Right pulled it all down tonight. With the crank and cam pulleys lined up the drill bit wouldn't go into he FIP. Lined up the FIP so the drill bit goes in. Both the other pulleys are off by 1 tooth.

So lined up the FIP put drill bit in and then released the tension on the belt. Lined up both the crank and cam pulleys by hand. Replaced timing belt. Turned engine over by hand. Turned over easily. Replaced front pulley with bolt and then tried to start. No joy. So next thought was what James said about pushrods. Pulled the rocker cover off. Turned the engine over by hand to look at the pushrods individualy. All rise and fall in the same plane. So either they are all bent the same or they are all fine.

So now I'm completely baffled.

Any ideas? Anyone local who wants to earn a beer

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Chris

You're more than welcome. Just shout when and I'll stick the kettle on. If it's to early for a drink I'll make sure there are some biscuits in the house ;) Either lunchtime or late in the afternoon is good but I can fit in with you.

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You did fit the belt with the 3 pump pulley wheel bolts loose? if not the pump timing maybe out.

Align Crank and cam pulley with marks, insert pin/drill and loosen 3 bolts on pump pulley.

Fit belt and tensioner, tension belt, ensure every thing still in alignment & do up pump pulley bolts.

Remove pin and turn over by hand 2 revolutions, check all marks align and pin can be inserted.

You can double check the crank position via the flywheel housing wadding bolt hole, look for cut out in flywheel.

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Yes. Unless the pikeys have had it away in the last couple of days. I didn't think to check really. There was 1/4 tank there when I got back from Minehead.

You've got me thinking now :o

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I much prefer blowing stuff up to turning spanners :P

Kind of go hand in hand for you, don't they??? :ph34r::lol:

If your experience has been anything like mine was, it's very easy to nudge a sprocket off-mark when trying to get the belt on... I had to walk away for a cup of tea after several attempts!!!

Have you lined up the flywheel groove with the wading plug hole in the flywheel housing? I'm not entirely sure it's possible, but could you be 180deg out???

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