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1988 3.5efi wont start


Neo 21

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ok put new coil on as old one sparking about

still not starting :blink::blink: question if you take of the dizzy cap ign on and move the rotor arm should the coil still send a spark down the lt lead as this is what i am getting.

fitted new potentiometer set it at 0.30v info says move throttle right open should read 4.5v only getting 3.7v would this cause non starting ?

cheers Tony

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still not starting :blink::blink: question if you take of the dizzy cap ign on and move the rotor arm should the coil still send a spark down the lt lead as this is what i am getting.

I hope you mean HT lead, you shouldn't be getting sparks down the LT lead :blink: But yes, if you move the rotor arm enough that the amp is triggered then it will fire the coil.

Throttle pot shouldn't prevent it from starting.

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if i take the lt lead of the top of the dizzy put it near metal and move the rotor arm by hand it produces a spark from the coil and along the lead nice spark too

so is this correct or a problem :blink:

To avoid confusion, note the lead from the top of the dizzy to the coil is an HT lead, the LT leads are the low voltage (12v) ones.

If you take the HT lead from the top of the dizzy and hold it near the engine block and move the rotor arm such that you're triggering the ignition amp then yes, you should get a spark from the tip of the lead to the block. Unless you've got the HT disconnected from the coil, you shouldn't be getting a spark from the coil to anywhere. I'd try a different lead from coil to dizzy, it's not unknown for HT leads to break down.

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I'm with BBC on the electrical side. Especially as it happened at the same time as main beam going.

Have you checked around the steering column/behind the dash for worn or freyed wires?

Thinks - Does the ignition need to be on (switch live) for RR mainbeam to work and is there a switched feed to the Injection loom /ECU?

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......i take it that means the amp is ok if it sending a signal back to the coil then

Would be nice to think that but I have had amps fail where they would work at tickover but would not rev up. Have also had the failure mode where it would fail when warm but worked again when left to cool.

Steve

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I'm with BBC on the electrical side. Especially as it happened at the same time as main beam going.

Have you checked around the steering column/behind the dash for worn or freyed wires?

Thinks - Does the ignition need to be on (switch live) for RR mainbeam to work and is there a switched feed to the Injection loom /ECU?

put a new dim dip pack on head lights are ok now rest of the wiring have checked seems ok

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still not starting up

have changed coil

dizzy cap

rotor arm

plugs

sometimes plugs are wet other times dry so checked the power resistor pack ohms readings low one minute then retry it again they go to the correct setting of 6 ohms

also flapper not always flapping

it sounds like it wants to start but just not right if you know what i mean

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