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200tdi overheating?


simon a

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Just bought a 110 (K reg) fitted with a disco 200tdi engine. Runs well, but temp gauge quicly moves up to rhs of white band (but not quite into red). Electric fan then cuts in and runs most of time whilst engine running. Radiator and water pump appear OK. Have noted that has 88 thermostat (correct according to LR). Has also got electric fan (Bosch) on relay and thermostatic switch fitted in radiator top hose - not sure of source of switch, but has '90' stamped on it.

Understand that incorrect temp guage readings are common on disco engines conversions, but more concerned re elec fan running all the time. If '90' relates to temp when switch activates - is this not too close to 88 when thermostat opens?

If so, where can I get another thermostatic switch? also can I get a suitable sender unit to match temp guage - think car was originally petrol as has choke pull under dash.

thanks

could be viscous(not sure on spelling) link

jack

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I have the same problem. The needle sits at the end of the white bit/middle of the black bit. It's always been the same since I fitted the 200tdi. Since i fitted the 35s it seemed a bit higher so i replaced the rad, thermostat (with the standard disco 88deg), water pump, and replaced the 2.5D sender (which seems to fit the 200tdi fine) with a Steve Parker sender.

The temperature indicated on the clock seems to rise if i put the lights or overide the electric fan on so i guess there might be a connected earth fault with the dash cluster but i haven't had time to look at that. I don't have a viscous fan but the X-fan switch in the bottom hose rarely ever switches the fan on.

I don't think the head gasket is gone as it doesn't continualy rise and having the gas in the header sniffed with the blue liquid says no exhaust in the coolant. Any more ideas?

I don't think the sniffers work particularly well on diesels, can't tell you why but thats what I've always been told.

Mark

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  • 3 months later...

Hi - I am a newbie signing in with a question.....

I have just transplanted the 200Tdi from my Defender 110 into my Ninety. The original sender (PRC8593) and the 88 degree thermostat (ERR2903) is now coupled to the old Ninety temp gauge (PRC7311). The reading is at the extreme right of the solid white band at normal operating temperature, even during light use.

Is this the normal reading for this gauge? The engine does not seem to be overheating, but I worry that the needle does not sit bang upright in the middle of the gauge which is how it used to behave in the 110 (with the AMR2070 gauge).

After reading many posts on the subject, I feel that PRC7311 is likely to read hotter with the 200TDi engine - reason: the thermostat on the Ninety's old 12J engine opens at 82 degrees, hence the gauge is likely to be calibrated to read "normal" at a lower temperature, whereas at the higher 88 degrees plus temperature of the 200Tdi it is bound to show as if overheating. Does this sound logical?

Thanks.

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Reckon you meant to type '89 [1989] as if it tried to be a Dec '09 it wouldn't be built yet :rolleyes:

My temp gauge is also reading to the extreme right of the white band with original temp gauge and sender fitted although the original thermostat has been replaced. (200tdi 110) Rad was re-cored about three years ago and is in good condition too.

When I first got the vehicle the temp stayed only a quarter of the way on the gauge but I can't quite remenber when the reading changed but I presume it was after fitting the new stat. I'm beginning to wonder whether the original thermostat was an 82 degree. The temp seems to be steady but it looks to be too close to the red for comfort.

I'm wondering if its worth trying the 82 degree stat?

Mark

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I swapped my defender engine after I hydrolocked it to a disco unit, BUT I only used the block so the temp sender was the original one, on the old engine it sat at half way but on the new block it sits on the end of the white bar, never moves over it I have an X-Eng thermo switch placed in the lower output pipe which has never come on, so I guess the red is doing its job.

I just found it strange that the same sender can give a different reading by just swapping the block.

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I swapped my defender engine after I hydrolocked it to a disco unit, BUT I only used the block so the temp sender was the original one, on the old engine it sat at half way but on the new block it sits on the end of the white bar, never moves over it I have an X-Eng thermo switch placed in the lower output pipe which has never come on, so I guess the red is doing its job.

I just found it strange that the same sender can give a different reading by just swapping the block.

Could the coolant passageways have become restricted with corrosion or other debris? Did you use the same pump?

Mark

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I had a similar problem last year with my 200tdi 110. I had replaced the radiator, water pump and thermostat and sender until Turbo charger leant me his heat sensor gun and we confirmed it was the gauge that had had it. I replaced it with a calibrated gauge and sensor and it now sits at 88 degrees what ever I do.

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I had a similar problem last year with my 200tdi 110. I had replaced the radiator, water pump and thermostat and sender until Turbo charger leant me his heat sensor gun and we confirmed it was the gauge that had had it. I replaced it with a calibrated gauge and sensor and it now sits at 88 degrees what ever I do.

Any idea where 88 degrees would register on the standard gauge?

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on mine it sits just to left of the vertical.

Will check engine temp with my infra red thermometer next time I'm out in the 110. I guess I just aim it next to the temp sender?

Will be interesting to see what the temp is and how it corresponds on the gauge.

Mark

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I found that the standard LandRover gauge was, well, vague, to say the least. My 110 wouldn't budge off 88 deg even when loaded to the hilt (overloaded) pulling a three ton plant trailer.

I fitted a VDO gauge from Merlin Motorsport, and the sender to suit (5/8ths UNC I think), and now I can see the gauge move a degree or two at a time. The gauge comes steadily up from cold, to 92 deg. You can 'see' the stat opening and the temp drops to just under 90*. If I work it hard you can see the gauge creep up to 95, where the fan cuts in, then drop back down to 88*.

Really made a world of difference to mine, I actually believe what the gauge is saying now :)

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Hi everyone,

Found this interesting faq on testing various types of temp gauges - http://www.autometer.com/tech_faq.aspx?sid=1

Also, here is the gauge I intend to buy - http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.a...ch&gid=2825

The kit includes a 1/8 npt sender plus 1/2" npt and 3/8" npt adapaters - can anyone tell me whether one of these sizes will match the sender receptor on my standard 200tdi cylinder head?

Thanks!!

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  • 2 weeks later...
I found that the standard LandRover gauge was, well, vague, to say the least. My 110 wouldn't budge off 88 deg even when loaded to the hilt (overloaded) pulling a three ton plant trailer.

I fitted a VDO gauge from Merlin Motorsport, and the sender to suit (5/8ths UNC I think), and now I can see the gauge move a degree or two at a time. The gauge comes steadily up from cold, to 92 deg. You can 'see' the stat opening and the temp drops to just under 90*. If I work it hard you can see the gauge creep up to 95, where the fan cuts in, then drop back down to 88*.

Really made a world of difference to mine, I actually believe what the gauge is saying now :)

Hi All I finally fitted an OEM gauge to my 200tdi Ninety - the new gauge actually indicates temperature in centigrade. It ame with its own sender which was fitted by cannibalising the original sender. Just like cierenc, the temperature fluctuates between 91 and 95 - but never goes below 91. Appreciate everyone's opinion whether this range is "normal" for a 15 year old 200tdi which has never been opened up. Other ancillaries - pump, rad, etc. are in good shape - running in a tropical environment - Colombo / Sri Lanka might be making the difference? Thanks, folks!

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as mentioned earlier swap sender and gauge for an aftermarket one which will take the guess work out of diagnosing if you have a overheating problem

swap the fan switch for an x-eng one which has dual temp sensing

ped

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