Rebuilding V8 front end

[geoffbeaumont]

Heading over to Robhybrid's this weekend to sort out the V8 we put in my truck last year (and broke in the process...). We need to strip down the front end to see how much damage we've done in there - we already know we've bust the oil pump drive tooth and the distributor gear - I'd guess the timing gear will have to be replaced too.

I need to put in an order for the bits we need, so...what are they? The engine's a 3.5 out of 92K disco.

• Oil pump gears
  
• Dizzy drive gear (we've got a spare one of these)
  
• Timing case gasket
  
• Water pump gasket
  
• Timing gear (Rob's got a used duplex one, but I'm a bit wary - don't fancy yet another bust engine)
  
• Oil pump gasket
  

Am I missing anything?

[istruggle2gate11]

Heading over to Robhybrid's this weekend to sort out the V8 we put in my truck last year (and broke in the process...). We need to strip down the front end to see how much damage we've done in there - we already know we've bust the oil pump drive tooth and the distributor gear - I'd guess the timing gear will have to be replaced too.

I need to put in an order for the bits we need, so...what are they? The engine's a 3.5 out of 92K disco.

• Oil pump gears
  
• Dizzy drive gear (we've got a spare one of these)
  
• Timing case gasket
  
• Water pump gasket
  
• Timing gear (Rob's got a used duplex one, but I'm a bit wary - don't fancy yet another bust engine)
  
• Oil pump gasket
  

Am I missing anything?

Nice to fit new nuts and bolts on a rebuild?

While its stripped down, new drive belts?

Antifreeze, New Jubilee Clips?

Oil, Oil Filter, Vaseline?

Hylomar?

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Sump gasket,

you won't get the timing cover off without destroying it

Nige

[pugwash]

Copper grease and some sort of thread cleaner. When (if) you get the timing cover bolts out, use liberal amounts of copperslip, clean all the threads out which go into the block and then fit brand new bolts. Then in 5 years time when you ahev to do the timing chain again, you won't have to take the engine to someone to tap out the bolt which you snapped in the block (the voice of experience speaketh!)

Vaseline for repriming

Water pump change at the same time just to be safe? much cheaper to change now than in 12 months time when the engine and ancillaries are all in pieces (again the voice of experience speaketh)

Leccy drill to prime the oil filter, or remember to take the sparks out

[geoffbeaumont]

While its stripped down, new drive belts?

The ones on it are pretty new anyway - swopped of my old engine.

Sump gasket,

you won't get the timing cover off without destroying it

Cheers Nige - hadn't thought of that.

Copper grease and some sort of thread cleaner. When (if) you get the timing cover bolts out, use liberal amounts of copperslip, clean all the threads out which go into the block and then fit brand new bolts. Then in 5 years time when you ahev to do the timing chain again, you won't have to take the engine to someone to tap out the bolt which you snapped in the block (the voice of experience speaketh!)

Been there, only it was head bolt But copper grease in an alloy block...? Think I'll stick with engine oil for that one... It won't be five years though - this engine's done about 105K, so it's good for at most a couple of years with the mileage I do before it needs a full rebuild. Hopefully the original lump will be going back in then.

Water pump change at the same time just to be safe? much cheaper to change now than in 12 months time when the engine and ancillaries are all in pieces (again the voice of experience speaketh)

Had that one too Guess we could stick the one from the old engine on - it's only 1yr/20K or so old, but it's a Britpart one, and I was told by a few people when I fitted it that they'd had them pack up after a year or so anyway.

[02GF74]

you may get away with the sump gasket; if you can pull on the top of the time cover and use a sharp knife to separate the cover from the gasket... and if it does rip, then use copious amounts of hylomar - not ideal and probably not worth the hassle for the price os a sump gasket. I can't remember what happened to mind but since I was taking the simp off, I didn't care too much.

From my own experience, make sure you have a couple of spare bolts for the water pump - these can shear off when undone or do the same when being torqued down. From memory, they are unc that can be gotten without too much problem; if you need some I may be able to get some from local fasterner place - will save you time and certainly on postage as most places have minimal postage rate.

Also you may also find that the oil pump cover bolts - weird 12 pointed heads may get knackered or snap - they can be done up really tight to prevent leaks. These you would need to get from rimmer (see their website for part no. - 3 different lengths) and then order from them or Craddocks.

What about the timing cover oil seal? If you fit a new one, don't tap it all the way down so that it will not run in the groove worn by the old seal. And a socket to undo the nut for the crank pulley? And a puller to pull the puller off? Yopu may get lucky and it slips off but be prepared for it to be well stuck. You will not find a puller for this job so need to make something like this:

made from 2 pieces fo steel and 2 puller arms.

and for priming the oil pump:

items to add to your list:

1. O ring for distributor

2. roll pon for distributor drive; do not re-use the old one

When fitting the drive gear, you will need to drill the hole for the roll pin. It is quite difficult to align so unless you got precise drilling kit, drill one side first, then fit onto the shaft and drill all the way through - this ensures the hole is centralised. Alternately drill hole that is undersize in one side and open out with a round file.

[geoffbeaumont]

From my own experience, make sure you have a couple of spare bolts for the water pump - these can shear off when undone or do the same when being torqued down. From memory, they are unc that can be gotten without too much problem; if you need some I may be able to get some from local fasterner place - will save you time and certainly on postage as most places have minimal postage rate.

Might do that, then - there's a good fasteners wholesaler down the road from work.

Also you may also find that the oil pump cover bolts - weird 12 pointed heads may get knackered or snap - they can be done up really tight to prevent leaks. These you would need to get from rimmer (see their website for part no. - 3 different lengths) and then order from them or Craddocks.

Mutter...that one's a sore point. We kicked off the catastrophe we're patching up now with a sheared oil pump bolt (and went downhill from there...). Still not sure how we managed to jam the oil pump

What about the timing cover oil seal? If you fit a new one, don't tap it all the way down so that it will not run in the groove worn by the old seal.

Is that different from the main timing cover gasket?

And a socket to undo the nut for the crank pulley? And a puller to pull the puller off? Yopu may get lucky and it slips off but be prepared for it to be well stuck. You will not find a puller for this job so need to make something like this:

made from 2 pieces fo steel and 2 puller arms.

I'm glad the truck's sat in Rob's workshop...hope his fabrication skills are up to his usual standards this weekend...

and for priming the oil pump:

The engine's been sat for about a month and half, but it hasn't been stripped down completely so I'm not too bothered about cutting the fuel and just turning it over on the starter motor to prime it.

items to add to your list:

1. O ring for distributor

2. roll pon for distributor drive; do not re-use the old one

When fitting the drive gear, you will need to drill the hole for the roll pin. It is quite difficult to align so unless you got precise drilling kit, drill one side first, then fit onto the shaft and drill all the way through - this ensures the hole is centralised. Alternately drill hole that is undersize in one side and open out with a round file.

Or plan B...switch the working vacuum advance onto the dizzy from the old engine and use that instead (that's the 'spare' drive gear anyway).

[02GF74]

Is that different from the main timing cover gasket?

The engine's been sat for about a month and half, but it hasn't been stripped down completely so I'm not too bothered about cutting the fuel and just turning it over on the starter motor to prime it.

Or plan B...switch the working vacuum advance onto the dizzy from the old engine and use that instead (that's the 'spare' drive gear anyway).

Yes; I meant the crackshaft seal. The cranshaft pokes trhough the timing cover and onto it fits the timing pulley. There is a gasket on the other side of the timing cover between it and the block.

I wouldn't be happy turning the engine over without oil psihing through it like you suggest but then it is not my engine! My priming tool is not up to Tonk standard but is easy to make and works - you can buy them for about £15 and if you ask me nicely, you can bottow mine as long as you return it and pay postage costs. Fit into a battery drill, spin it round and eventually you will see/hear oil hissing out from the rockers (you still do the vaseline stuff).

Likewise with the puller plate - you need to have a 3 arm puller to fit in between; again a few minutes with an angle grinder is all it tool.

[geoffbeaumont]

I wouldn't be happy turning the engine over without oil psihing through it like you suggest but then it is not my engine! My priming tool is not up to Tonk standard but is easy to make and works - you can buy them for about £15 and if you ask me nicely, you can bottow mine as long as you return it and pay postage costs. Fit into a battery drill, spin it round and eventually you will see/hear oil hissing out from the rockers (you still do the vaseline stuff).

Where can you buy them from? Might be worth the investment if I can get my hands on one before the weekend. Else I might take you up on your offer

[MarkieB]

I know rimmer bros stock them

[geoffbeaumont]

I know rimmer bros stock them

Unless it's a 'pop into your friendly local landrover specialist' job, I probably won't have a chance to deal with it in time (I'm away on training in Poole for the next couple of days).

PM on its way, O2GF74.

[geoffbeaumont]

She runs!

Spent the weekend over at robhybrid's sorting out knackered engine number two. All went remarkably smoothly and she started first time (much to our surprise...). Got a couple of hours work to do before I drive her home next weekend, but nothing too demanding. Set the ignition timing, fill the coolant, stick the bonnet back on. Take her for a drive and change the oil. Jobs a good'un

It turns out reassembling the oil pump with instant gasket was a really bad idea We let it dry first but it still compressed too much and jammed the pump. Result: stripped teeth on the dizzy drive (both gears) and shards of tooth everywhere Timing gear and the oil pump itself had survived, but I'd assumed worst case and bought the bits so we changed them anyway.

As for priming the pump, took Rob about two minutes to attach the broken dizzy gear to a steel rod and grind the teeth off. Can't get a better drive tool than that

I've also got a very smart black sump as Rob got a bit carried away cleaning it...