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Manual gearbox to an Auto box


reggie

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I want to change from my manual gearbox to an auto one that I have lying around, anyone got any ideas of how easy or hard it might be & what problem I may come across?

Its a 1993 V8 3.9EFI Range Rover & the auto box is out one the same year & model.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Do you have all the bits you need from the auto RR? Like propshafts, oil cooler and pipes, start inhibit loom etc?

If so it should be relatively straight forward. You might want to take a close look at the transmisison tunnel though - I don't know if they are different between the manual and auto.

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Do you have all the bits you need from the auto RR? Like propshafts, oil cooler and pipes, start inhibit loom etc?

If so it should be relatively straight forward. You might want to take a close look at the transmisison tunnel though - I don't know if they are different between the manual and auto.

The gearbox mounts on the offside are different as well i think.

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Interior tunnel trim & shifter is obviously different, kickdown linkage, oil cooler & pipes, mounts, props, assuming you've got a bellhousing.

BTW I might know someone after a set of RR manual gearbox/transfer box mounts if they're going spare ;)

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Well the manual box is out but once the cross member was removed it revealed a little bit of rot on the chassis so now that has to be done before we can proceed. It was also bloody cold yesterday, we must have picked the worst week to do it........... :(

I've got gearbox mounts for an auto if there different & all the other little parts from a donor vehicle so I should be ok, also changed the gearbox seals as I didn't fancy having to remove it again if it leaked.

I should have the manual gearbox mounts spare, I can't see what I will need them for once the auto's in.

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its a shame your so far away as id be happy to do a swap weekend for all the stuff out of mine

mines a 4 speed auto id like a manual

You wouldn't say that if you drove mine, it was horrible to drive compared to all the autos I've driven & it wasn't any faster either.

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really id find it more fun off road with a manual autos too easy sometimes i dont drive mine on the road very often last time was on the way back from billings

Well it can have benefits off road like when going down a steep hill as 1st gear is lower than the auto so in that way its better but the cons outweigh the pros for me. It takes a little more thinking about off road using the manual, like making sure you choose the right gear for the right job, a couple of times I've been in too a low gear when I've needed a higher one. It is good off road though with the manual.

I also do a lot of road driving so an auto is much more suited + now I've fitted bigger tyres I have to change gear more often with the manual.

Also there not the smoothest of gear change as you would imagine it to be & is a little stiff going into gears when it gets warm. When I first test drove mine I thought it was a bit clunky & noisy but was then told by my friend who works at LR " That's normal, get used to it" In hindsight I should have waited & bought an auto.

If your still interested send me a PM & its yours for £90 (thats what I've been offered by a local gearbox shop) with the transfer box.

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mines running on 235 85 16 tyres and on the motorway you have to be doing 56 for it to go into 4th it can be pretty annoying when the traffic is slow moving and it keeps changing between 3rd and 4th

auto is better for recovery and steep hill climbs as it does all the work for you like you said but id still prefer to drive my car than be driven

will you have all the bits needed to convert it to manual?

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you have to be doing 56 for it to go into 4th it can be pretty annoying when the traffic is slow moving and it keeps changing between 3rd and 4th

The amount of people I see saying that!

The motor is in 4th by the time you've gone through 30 mph if you are driving steady and you will be hard-pressed to notice. What you can feel is the torque convertor locking up at around the mid 50's mph.

I agree that the lock up is set a bit high really. What's worse is that the lower powered 3.5 locks up at 40 which makes it a real struggle when towing sometimes.

I always change manually when towing with an auto. And for the record, I prefer auto for offroading too: 1st gear in low and cadence braking for downhills is fine most times. 2 is fine on the level stuff and uphills I use 3 and let it sort it out for itself.

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What's worse is that the lower powered 3.5 locks up at 40 which makes it a real struggle when towing sometimes.

I'm preparing to go auto in my 3.9 V8 90. I haven't found a box yet, but your comment above is useful as I was not aware of this difference. Are the gear ratios any different between the 3.5 and 3.9 boxes, or is it just the lock up speed?

Thanks.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well chaps the box is in & what a pain in the arse that job was :rolleyes:

Its all the little bits that are the pain.

  1. The oil cooler pipes need changing
  2. The clutch pedal needs removing
  3. The brake pedal needs changing
  4. The throttle needs swapping over to attach the kick down cable
  5. The shifter
  6. The shifter surround plate (where it bolts to the transmission tunnel)
  7. The shifter wood surround
  8. The start inhibitor loom (which hasn't been done yet)

I'm sure I've forgotten something!

Also changed the two seals in the box, the crank shaft seal & the oil & filter in the box.

The chassis also needed a repair where the cross member was fitted so all in all it ended up a bigger job than anticipated.

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