Ben Jordan Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 I have a new set of EBC front brake discs and pads to fit to my non-ABS Range rover classic. I have seen in the manual that i need to take the wheel hub off to replace the discs. Can somebody please list the items with part numbers if possible for all the replacement gaskets etc. and other parts that should be replaced at the same time as changing the discs/pads? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiWhite Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 I've had my hubs apart this week - not sure about part numbers but (per hub) you'll need; Drive flange gasket Inner wheel bearing seal New bearing-nut lock washer IIRC that's everything. You can reuse your old inner seals but for the cost / bother I'd change them. I'd also have a couple of spare wheel bearings lying about in case any of yours are suspect. Remember there's 2 per hub. Where did the EBC disks come from? Price? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Jordan Posted January 26, 2006 Author Share Posted January 26, 2006 I got EBC Turbo Grooved Front Brake Discs vented and EBC Extra Duty 6000 Series Green Brake Pads from Paddocks for £119.27 delivered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 I have a new set of EBC front brake discs and pads to fit to my non-ABS Range rover classic. I have seen in the manual that i need to take the wheel hub off to replace the discs.Can somebody please list the items with part numbers if possible for all the replacement gaskets etc. and other parts that should be replaced at the same time as changing the discs/pads? Thanks in advance. A EPC page will be arriving shortly here you go for RRC from VIN CA to HA610293 front hub non-abs If the VINs are not for your RR I have same pics for later RRC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Jordan Posted January 26, 2006 Author Share Posted January 26, 2006 Will i need a box spanner for this job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 Will i need a box spanner for this job? Yes for the hub nuts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Jordan Posted January 26, 2006 Author Share Posted January 26, 2006 here you go for RRC from VIN CA to HA610293 front hub non-abs If the VINs are not for your RR I have same pics for later RRC My VIN is SALLHAMM3GA416578 does this fit inbetween those two (i think it does)? I can never work it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Jordan Posted January 26, 2006 Author Share Posted January 26, 2006 Yes for the hub nuts and the best place to get one of those? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 My VIN is SALLHAMM3GA416578 does this fit inbetween those two (i think it does)? I can never work it out Yep, thats in the range above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 and the best place to get one of those? Either Bearmach, DLS,Paddocks,Craddocks or Difflock in the top drop down menu select 'front& rear axles' then click 'go' it's about 3/4 down the 1st page Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Jordan Posted January 26, 2006 Author Share Posted January 26, 2006 Bearmach, Thats good news, i should be able to get one from MM 4x4 then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Jordan Posted January 26, 2006 Author Share Posted January 26, 2006 I've had my hubs apart this week - not sure about part numbers but (per hub) you'll need;Drive flange gasket Inner wheel bearing seal New bearing-nut lock washer Im confused with the parts diagram, I need 2 x Gasket axle shaft drive memeber 2 x Washer lock Is this correct so far? and then im not sure if i need item 6 or 9? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 Thats good news, i should be able to get one from MM 4x4 then! Yep, they should have some Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 and then im not sure if i need item 6 or 9? You need 6 and you need 9 if fitted. You will not know until you take it apart unless you can find the axle number or perhaps from the age of the vehicle. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 Also need 2 x item 3 gasket 571752 & 2 x item 5 lockwasher FRC8002, picture shows from the axle end moving outboard to the drive member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Jordan Posted January 27, 2006 Author Share Posted January 27, 2006 when unbolting the brake calipers, will i need to undo the brake lines or can i bend the caliper out of the way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 Where the flexi hose joins the fixed brake pipe on top of the swivel assembly you can undo the 2 bolts, remove 1 at a time swivel the plate out refit the bolt finger tight, do the same to the other bolt & move the caliper away hang it up with a cable tie to the spring or chassis. when you come to refit just do the reverse and make sure the bolts are tight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_a Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 As I found out renewing all my swivel housing bit over the last couple of weeks the brake caliper bolts are not easy to come by. They are a special head which is the same as a ring spanner shape. Mine rounded off and I spent nearly a week waiting for them to arrive, I did find that LR centre Huddersfield (google for that ) have them on thier website for a good price (don't ask how much I paid for mine coz I got them from a local dealer!). Try both your 13mm and 1/2" socket and use the one which is the best fit, the old bolts were 1/2" and my new ones 13mm. My use of the 13mm helped to round them off I think. probably is worth at least having an oil seal, you can pry the old one out easily after the brake discs are removed. Then clean and repack the bearings if they are OK otherwise renew, not too difficult a job. IMO don't buy a box spanner for £5 or more, go to classic car world or somewhere and get a socket for £10ish. Means you can be sure you have correctly tightended the bearing nuts. The method I have used the last couple of times is 61nm initial tighten (pulls the bearings tight) back off tighten hand tightish (4nm has been mentioned) or back off 1/4 a turn I have seen. put lock washer on tighten out lock nut to 61nm. it's about the same for a box spanner, tighten as much as you can, back off a bit and then put the washer and lock nut on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Jordan Posted January 27, 2006 Author Share Posted January 27, 2006 IMO don't buy a box spanner for £5 or more, go to classic car world or somewhere and get a socket for £10ish. Means you can be sure you have correctly tightended the bearing nuts. I have brought a box spanner now, but that socket is a good idea. As i was reading the manual i was thinking how the hell am i meant to torque the bearing nuts with a box spanner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Jordan Posted January 27, 2006 Author Share Posted January 27, 2006 I have managed to get it all striped down and the discs changed over tonight, in the morning i can collect the parts and get it all back together. Oh i managed to move the callipers without splitting the pipes due to the flex in the rigid brake lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Jordan Posted January 28, 2006 Author Share Posted January 28, 2006 Oh and thinking about it last night im sure my Rangie is meant to have ABS. It has what looks like the ABS sensor going into the top of the CV housing, it has twin rear flexible hoses going to the rear axle (which the manual states is an ABS model), and the drive member is not captive on the drive shaft. Yet the master cylinder does not seem to be a birds nest of brake lines as depicted in the manual, i have never felt any ABS kicking in but then i have never had the wheels anywhere near locking. Are these parts that i need the same part numbers as on an ABS or non-ABS axle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 Oh and thinking about it last night im sure my Rangie is meant to have ABS. It has what looks like the ABS sensor going into the top of the CV housing, it has twin rear flexible hoses going to the rear axle (which the manual states is an ABS model), and the drive member is not captive on the drive shaft. Yet the master cylinder does not seem to be a birds nest of brake lines as depicted in the manual, i have never felt any ABS kicking in but then i have never had the wheels anywhere near locking.Are these parts that i need the same part numbers as on an ABS or non-ABS axle? if there's no abs modulator block fitted then yours is a non-abs vehicle, as confirmed by the VIN ,just use the numbers on the parts pic above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Jordan Posted January 28, 2006 Author Share Posted January 28, 2006 You need 6 and you need 9 if fitted. You will not know until you take it apart unless you can find the axle number or perhaps from the age of the vehicle.Chris Looks like i have only got 6. Im off to get the parts now. Cheers Western? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Jordan Posted January 28, 2006 Author Share Posted January 28, 2006 Okay the discs and pads are all now swapped over, just got to bleed the system in the morning. Thank you everybody for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 Good job Ben happy to help, bet your freezing, I was going to do my swivel seals but it's far to cold to sit on the drive & work on cold steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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