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Wheel spacers


Paul64

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I use 265/75R16 BFG MTs on my 110 fitted on Freestyle alloys which are the same size and offset as Disco steels and they don't rub anywhere.

Mine are 265/75R16 BFG MTs on Disco steels and rub like hell on my 110. The top of the rear spring retainers are now very highly polished!

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Someone mentioned pulling the bolts through on wheel spacers. Anyone ever one this on standard Defender hubs? Is it possible? if I was designing it, I'd put a big head on the bolt so it couldn't be pulled through, but maybe there's a reason this isn't the case. A mate said he once pulled the bolt through on his Mini hubs by overtightening the wheel nuts, so told me not to stand on the wheel nut brace to tighten them. Having had two wheels nearly fall off through loose nuts, I now work on the basis of as tight as possible, and then a bit more. Since he told me about the Mini, I no longer jump up and down on the wheel nut brace though...

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Someone mentioned pulling the bolts through on wheel spacers. Anyone ever one this on standard Defender hubs? Is it possible? if I was designing it, I'd put a big head on the bolt so it couldn't be pulled through, but maybe there's a reason this isn't the case. A mate said he once pulled the bolt through on his Mini hubs by overtightening the wheel nuts, so told me not to stand on the wheel nut brace to tighten them. Having had two wheels nearly fall off through loose nuts, I now work on the basis of as tight as possible, and then a bit more. Since he told me about the Mini, I no longer jump up and down on the wheel nut brace though...

IIRC the wheel nut toruqe on LR serise, defenders, disco's and RR's up to L322's is 130 nm, I would definately suggest investing in a torque wrench ;) I will double check this later today when i go into work.

Cheers

Shaun

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Someone mentioned pulling the bolts through on wheel spacers. Anyone ever one this on standard Defender hubs? Is it possible? if I was designing it, I'd put a big head on the bolt so it couldn't be pulled through, but maybe there's a reason this isn't the case. A mate said he once pulled the bolt through on his Mini hubs by overtightening the wheel nuts, so told me not to stand on the wheel nut brace to tighten them. Having had two wheels nearly fall off through loose nuts, I now work on the basis of as tight as possible, and then a bit more. Since he told me about the Mini, I no longer jump up and down on the wheel nut brace though...

They can snap if you put too much strain on them but I've never seen one pull through. You shouldn't need to tighten wheel nuts excessively, if you tighten them to the correct torque and they come loose then this is normally a sign that the wheels have a faulty design, perhaps the flange isn't raised away from the hub (assuming steel wheels) ?

The reason they can pull through on some spacer designs is there simply isn't enough material to hold them. On the spacers that have offset studs the only thing holding your wheel on is the spacer material and there is no direct connection between the hub and the wheel. It's all very well worrying about how strong the rims are when you are trusting a piece of aluminium of unknown origin or material type to keep the wheel connected to the vehicle.

For UK competition run under MSA permits most wheel spacer designs can't be used because they fail to meet either of the 2 criteria (maximum thickness 25mm and no extended wheel studs). In 2010 this will be clarified further as no wheel spacers will be allowed unless you can prove they are TUV approved.

The best way to gain clearance is to use a wheel with the right backspace, spending money on wheel spacers as a way of compensating for fitting the wrong wheels is just a way of introducing a weakness because you can't be bothered to do the job properly.

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[quote name='Paul64' post='327977' date='Nov 7 2008, 11:20 PM']Mine are 265/75R16 BFG MTs on Disco steels and rub like hell on my 110. The top of the rear spring retainers are now very highly polished![/quote]

i use simillar on my 90 and they dont rub - but they only clear the stop spring perch by about 5mm on full compression. As 110 springs are wider then i can understand why they do rub on yours.
Type of tyre probably also affects this. If oyu have big side lugs that stick out then they will more likely cause rubbing.
One thing i do know is that i have reduced turning lock with disco steels and 265's - but i'm sort of not that bothered about that, as i've been running these disco steels for 3 years now and havent bent one in all the trials or playdays i've done. Running very low pressures i do occasionally get the odd 'tyre burp' when they fold around a tree root or rock, but have only had to reseat one tyre due to mud ingress causing a slow leak.

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i use simillar on my 90 and they dont rub - but they only clear the stop spring perch by about 5mm on full compression. As 110 springs are wider then i can understand why they do rub on yours.

Type of tyre probably also affects this. If oyu have big side lugs that stick out then they will more likely cause rubbing.

One thing i do know is that i have reduced turning lock with disco steels and 265's - but i'm sort of not that bothered about that, as i've been running these disco steels for 3 years now and havent bent one in all the trials or playdays i've done. Running very low pressures i do occasionally get the odd 'tyre burp' when they fold around a tree root or rock, but have only had to reseat one tyre due to mud ingress causing a slow leak.

Hi Nick,

Which 265's are you using on your Disco steels? What clearance do you get to the spring housing on full tilt at the rear?

I have also reduced the turning circle at the front to prevent them rubbing.

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Hi Nick,

Which 265's are you using on your Disco steels? What clearance do you get to the spring housing on full tilt at the rear?

I have also reduced the turning circle at the front to prevent them rubbing.

i use greenway machos on my disco steelies.

i get about 5mm clearance at the back - no idea about the front, but it doesnt rub on anything other than the radius arms at full lock.

Oh and i cant adjust the lockstops cos they snapped off a few years ago when i tried to adjust them. I just stop turning when i hear the tyres clicking against the arms......... [*]

Even though they rub, i stil dont have the turning circle i used to have. But if i was that bothered about it i would buy bigger offset rims, or go mad and buy some super offset 15" rims :-)

[*] mot is passed using a blob of chemical metal and a bolt squished in it to prevent the tyres from rubbing during the test.

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i use greenway machos on my disco steelies.

i get about 5mm clearance at the back - no idea about the front, but it doesnt rub on anything other than the radius arms at full lock.

Oh and i cant adjust the lockstops cos they snapped off a few years ago when i tried to adjust them. I just stop turning when i hear the tyres clicking against the arms......... [*]

Even though they rub, i stil dont have the turning circle i used to have. But if i was that bothered about it i would buy bigger offset rims, or go mad and buy some super offset 15" rims :-)

[*] mot is passed using a blob of chemical metal and a bolt squished in it to prevent the tyres from rubbing during the test.

It must be the side walls on my BFG's then. I think I am going down the defender rim route, but still trying to work out why tubeless rims cost more than twice as much as tubed!

Not had problems with MOT as I always have my AT's on for that :rolleyes:

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