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martyn668

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martyn668 last won the day on June 20 2018

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About martyn668

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    martynjohnlewis@yahoo.com

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  1. I see this in the B2B world too, where a piece of lab equipment can be more like 50% more expensive between Austria and Switzerland. (My Swiss friend knew someone in Austria who was able to buy it locally and then just ship it to him.) I agree with tuko. The justification is unjustifiable. Before I boycotted Amazon I sometimes bought things from Amazon.com if they were cheaper than .co.uk. And I’m happy to buy from private sellers on eBay in Europe, and pick up large items myself (a set of third row seats from a Def110 from Northern Germany for example. I probably spent £150 getting there and
  2. That's smart Western. Not fitted to my 2001 CSW-spec 90. And cheap!
  3. Hurbie, you’ve got some sort of retainer attached to the seat box too. That’s not a bad idea. Moves the seat belt away from the catch.
  4. We all know how your seat belt doesn't retract fully all the time, and sometimes gets caught in the door locking catch. I have "invented" a little gadget that should help stop this. I came up with it myself some time ago, but have since seen it in a car (in China), but I didn't copy it, honestly. It's so simple. It's basically a loop of fabric around the seat belt (the Chinese car actually had one of those plastic runners you see which stop seat belts retracting too far) and a piece of elastic back to the bulkhead, or a suitable attachment point behind the seat. (I simply tied it r
  5. Or just slam it in the door. I had mine like that for years. If you put it nearish to the bottom you won’t notice any new leaks It worked fine.
  6. Why make it thicker at all? It will still be mounted on the chassis, which provides the strength and rigidity. You don’t need the body panels to be stronger. It won’t have been designed to crumple safely, etc., do I can’t seem it being any more than VERY moderately safer in a crash situation. Doesn’t make any sense to me. It may have to be 3x thicker just because they’re building it as a single piece?
  7. As Fiip says, a bit more testing with a bicycle pump and gauge to see if I can activate the actuator with my own compressed air.
  8. The problem was occurring before the tune. I played around with the wastegate again yesterday. It seems very free, even loose, with the actuator arm disconnected I have resisted spraying it with lubricating oil until now because I read on a forum that this is a short term fix, but when it burns on, it leaves a carbon deposit. That seemed logical, but as I was still having symptoms, I “threw caution to the wind” and sprayed it with some Plusgas. That and some more wiggling meant I didn’t have any symptoms today. I also wiggled the actuator a lot more. I think the collective is conf
  9. Hi TSD. I’ve read that the Discovery Td5 turbo wastegate is electronic, so the ECU could alter that to change engine inputs, but the Defender Td5 is more basic. Just a mechanical input - over 225kPa means that either the wastegate opens, or the engine starts limping.
  10. It looks like the VDO gauges go from 0 (1 I guess in operation) to 3, so 2.25 would swing most of the way across the gauge.
  11. I have a stage 1 Alive tune. I have to say it does make a big difference. All the way to 85. Or, once the limp has kicked in, all the way to 68, at which point it just gives up.
  12. Hmm, I've just realised that I should have twigged that bar and kPa are an easy conversion. Ambient pressure is 1 bar (because 1 bar is one "atmosphere" of pressure.) So if it's reading 100 kPa at tickover (no turbo), then it's a 100:1 ratio. Simples.
  13. Evening all, 2001 Td5. I've had a bit of a problem recently with turbo overboost. The symptoms all pointed to this (coughing and hesitation under high speed/load, and I borrowed a friend's Nanocom to confirm it. The ambient pressure is 100kPa, and when the manifold pressure gets to about 230kPa it throws an error. I've found on the internet that the engine protects itself from overboost by capping the boost to 125 + ambient, at which point the engine will go into limp mode. My experience of limp mode is that power drops what feels like 20% or so, and the Nanocom manifol
  14. Looks like a Mitsubishi Shogun in these pictures. Let's hope the mules still disguise the true body shape. https://uk.yahoo.com/news/land-rover-defender-spawn-apos-114000221.html I could be you Tanuki - I bought mine new in Belgium in 2001. I thought I was you, but then I realised you got yours from Namur. I got mine in Brussels (right hand drive). Private buyer, so no VAT savings (paid VAT in the UK, not Belgium), but still saved around £6,000 on UK list price. Only had a 1 year warranty in Belgium. That was pretty much the only difference, except I got a fire extinguisher thrown in
  15. Ooh, they sell Lara Croft pimple. I might just spend all of my money on that. 😉
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