Fit a new clutch to tdi engines

[cipx2]

According to a technical note, quoted below, when you fit a new clutch to a 200 or 300 tdi engine you need to fit the cover the correct way round.

But how do you find the correct way round when:

- there's no white marking on the flywheel (usually there isn't one, could be on new flywheels)

- there's no marking on the old clutch cover so you can mark the flywheel accordingly?

I've searched the forum and of all clutch and flywheel pics I found, none of them had markings on them.

Here's a picture of a supposed genuine clutch that I have, low resolution unfortunately, that seems to have the BSL marking on it (original + blown up picture):

02/10/96 33/01/96/EN
SUBJECT: Clutch Cover To Flywheel - Fitting Instruction 

MODEL 								AFFECTED VEHICLES
Range Rover Classic Diesel Derivatives LH 	 ALL
Discovery Diesel Derivatives LJ 				 ALL
Defender Diesel Derivatives LD 				 ALL


DETAIL
We have received a small number of reports which indicate an engine vibration at approximately 2000/2500 rpm, after investigation it is felt that one of the causes may be that the clutch and flywheel are out of balance.

ACTION REQUIRED
Information only:- When fitting a clutch cover or removing a clutch cover and flywheel for any reason, ensure that the procedure detailed below is adhered to.

PARTS INFORMATION
Not applicable

PROCEDURE
Refer to the workshop manual section 33. When fitting a clutch cover to the flywheel for any reason ensure the balanced light side (marked BLS see the illustration ‘A’ opposite) on the front of the cover, is fitted to the balanced heavy side of the flywheel (marked in white on the flywheel, see the illustration ‘B’ opposite). Failure to carry out this procedure could result in an out of balance situation resulting in engine vibration.

ILLUSTRATION
see below

[BogMonster]

It's an old bulletin (1996) so maybe they don't do it any more. I'd never heard of it anyway. And vibration on a Tdi is kind of standard when the engine is running

[GBMUD]

The flywheel is balanced by means of removing material from the flywheel on the heavy side - this is done by drilling material away, you can see the holes.

I assume that the clutch cover is balanced in a similar way - I do not have one here to look at. It would seem logical then that lightened (drilled etc.) side of the clutch cover goes on the un-drilled side of the flywheel.

...unless anyone knows better.

Why the orientation of two correctly balanced rotating parts makes a difference I do not see.

Chris

[JimAttrill]

Never seen any markings on any flywheel or clutch Pressure plate. We just bolt them on and hope for the best. I have read the whole of section 33 of my Defender manual LRL 0097 and there is no mention of BLS or whatever. They say just bolt it on and do the bolts up to 25 Nm. We often have our flywheels skimmed, so any paint marks would be removed anyway.

But the technical note is interesting. Maybe you need a 'genuine' clutch plate anyway, we always use Valeo, which may or may not be OEM.

[BogMonster]

Why the orientation of two correctly balanced rotating parts makes a difference I do not see.

That's a very good point - unless the two weren't rotating concentrically (which could only happen if the holes in the flywheel were in the wrong place!) there shouldn't be an issue!

[western]

I just bolt the cover on haven't had any problems.

the tech bulletin shown above is dated 02/10/96 ref number 33/01/96/EN found it in my LR RAVE CD's.

[cipx2]

If fitting it randomly, there's a 33% chance to fit it right. Or the imbalance to be small.

I opened this thread because one guy on another forum was saying that he got an engine vibration at aprox 2100 rpm after fitting a new clutch kit. Soon another 2-3 guys jumped in with same issues. I then remembered this bulletin but could not give a definite answer.

I know it's an old bulletin but the vehicles with their original flywheels are still out there and the picture I found is supposed to be from a recently made genuine clutch kit so it seems LR still demands the manufacturers to balance and mark the clutches accordingly.

I will use a picture of a resurfaced flywheel from white90's thread here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?s=&s...st&p=241528

Circled in green - the 6 threaded holes where the bolts go

Circled in green - where the locating dowels go

The remaining hole is the one used for balancing (or purposely unbalancing) the flywheel. I would assume the BHS (balancing Heavy Side of the flywheel) should be opposite to that hole. This is my assumption and I'm not 100% sure this is right.

Maybe someone has a picture of a new flywheel or an old one with the white marking still showing.

Some picture of a genuine clutch with the BLS marking visible would also help.

[western]

recently replaced my clutch, but didn't see any BLS markings on the cover.

[cipx2]

Was it genuine Land Rover (not OEM)?

[western]

Was it genuine Land Rover (not OEM)?

the clutch fitted now is a Valeo [LR 130 spec] item, also the removed Borg & Beck cover doesn't have any BLS markings on it either.

[cipx2]

Here's a pic of a B&B (also from this forum but I didn't make a note who posted it or where) where we can see 2 rivets (red arrows). Whether these 2 rivets are used for balancing, as one normally would think (so no need for BSL marking) or for imbalancing the cover on porpoise (a BSL mark needed), I don't know.

Maybe that could be a difference between a genuine LR cover (specially made to fit LR engines) and the rest of covers, oem or not (that can fit other engines from other vehicle manufacturers as well). Just a supposition.

I'm thinking that one way to do it is to fit the cover randomly (without the driven plate) and start the engine to test for abnormal vibrations. Make a note/mark, remove and refit cover 120 degrees further, test again and then do it one more time to cover all 3 possibilities. Then choose one of three ways depending on the results and refit properly (with the plate in). It shouldn't take more than 15 minutes.

[cipx2]

.....

I have read the whole of section 33 of my Defender manual LRL 0097 and there is no mention of BLS or whatever. They say just bolt it on and do the bolts up to 25 Nm. ......

I've also searched in all 33 sections from all RR, Discovery, Defender, 200 and 300 tdi versions. No BLS mention nowhere.

BUT, in all of them it says that before removing the cover you need to, and I quote, "2. Mark position of clutch cover to flywheel for reassembly"

That means the cover was supposed to go back the same way as initially fitted.

Maybe they initially thought the cover will last a million miles and nobody will ever renew the cover or the flywheel

[western]

had another look at the cover I removed recently, it has 2 rivets like the one above, but one rivet has a huge head on it [like a barrel] the other is a smaller flat head but fairly thick, so those seem to be how the cover is balanced, I haven't noticed any undue additional vibration on my engine, so it'll stay as it is.

I wouldn't refit a pressure cover to any engine, as sods law says it'll fail in the next week or 2. best to always fit new parts if stripping for a clutch change.

[selectcase]

Interesting thread this - I have reciently fitted a valeo 130 heavy duty clutch to my 98 disco and i get a vibration at between 2000 - 2500 rpm that transfers through and is very annoying - i have checked everythingelse so it looks like my gearbox may be coming out again just to rotate the damm clutch 180 degrees