Mike Jenkins Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 I'm new here so be gentle! I have a 1987 3.5 v8 90, all original as far as I can tell. I had some problems with leaking (overflowing) water and suspected one of the head gaskets/inlet manifold gasket was leaking. After stripping down the LHS to begin with, the head gasket's in a pretty poor state, so it seems worthwhile. Is it worth using a composite gasket instead of the standard metal one? Real Steel have been recommended to me, but I'm a bit confused... I'm not too worried about the loss of compression - max power isn't that important to me so much as reliability. Does the manifold gasket still line up if I use a composite head gasket or would a composite valley gasket sort that out as well? Do I need to change the head bolts for different ones or can I re-use the old ones? The engine manual says to replace the bolts on engines with composite gaskets, but it's ok to re-use the bolts on the older engines. Would I use the torque settings from the newer engine? Thanks for any advice - it's a great forum with loads of interesting posts. Cheers. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orangemach5 Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 Use a composite valley gasket along with composite head gaskets, they seal soo much better! Real steel is a good place to get V8 bits and bobs and are very helpfull over the phone, however i have aways given RPi a ring when i need bits (where the parts from my last 3.9 cam and top end rebuild came from). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 ^^^ what he says Composite is the way to go 101% Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 Composite! And another vote for Real Steel. Don't worry about it lining up, the difference is half of naff all. If you can stretch to a set of ARP head studs, real steel sell a set for ~£79 which is pretty good, you don't need the outer 8 as they were deleted on later engines as they actually make the head seal worse! To blank the holes, stick the old ones in and just torque to a very low figure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 And don't fully tighten the outer row of head bolts. They cause the head to tip & are deleted altogether from the later V8's - as in no holes drilled in the heads or block. Just nip them up to fill the holes (some say throw them away!) Ah, I see I was beaten to it by a minute or so! ^^^^^^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Jenkins Posted December 15, 2008 Author Share Posted December 15, 2008 Thanks for all the advice. I ordered composite head and inlet-manifold gaskets from Real Steel. They suggested I stick with the factory head bolts unless I wanted to build a high performance engine. Are the torque settings the same for the composite gaskets? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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