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Arc compsafari


muddydisco

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i looked in to it but by the time i buy the steel and bend it with out it flattening it was cheaper for some one elce to do the roll cage or buy one ready made and just do the mod that i wanted, but i didn't as i started doing RTV's and found that was better than the drive round days that i was doing that the comps are on the back of the list or now

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Its cheaper and easier in the long run really to buy a car already built, you find they've been modified where others break mine came from the Northern Off road club if it gets broken old racers are then strengthend right up so they hopefully don't break again! Building something can be time consuming, Don't get put off though as in my Opion it's the best most thrilling form of off roading!

I got in to it 3 years ago, Watched a AWDC Safari at Tidworth then had to many beers one night happened to be looking on Flea bay, ended up going to Bradford on the sunday to collect my Toy I fettled it for a few months before doing a few meetings with the AWDC good to race with if your prepared to travel depending where you live! I live nr Dover so quite away to any events!

Luckily i found Southern Counties off road Club Proper Safari racing, a great bunch of people spot on events and pretty easy for me to get to from where i Live did last year a full season including rebuilding the car compleatly new Fox's engine changed to auto box etc put a new lease of life in to a Dinosaur! (race proven vehicle)

this year i haven't been able to make every event which i'm not happy about! but sometimes circumstances and money can't be always in my Toy fund favour!

One thing i will never sell is my Racer!!

Have some pictures but not sure how to put them on!

I have some racing pics on a website i'm just starting for my new business

www.gilestoutterrain.com

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  • 3 weeks later...
Well I've been toying with the idea of getting into compsafari after a friend taking me for a spin in his motor :rolleyes:

So have any of you lot got any piccys of your builds ;)

I've got a discovery 3.5 for the base of the project if I plan on going ahead with it <_<

hi there, i have a 88" ALRC spec racer. if i was going to start racing for the first time i would build or buy an ALRC spec racer. this will give you the scope to go racing with any club, as rules change from club to club e.g AWDC and ALRC have different car spec rules.

i would say be carefull if building a car if not done it before. it can be a big head scratcher i the cost can go through the roof. mine has cost over £19K to build. if i was going to do it again i would buy a car already done and give it a re-build to my spec. at least then you have a base to start from.

if you have any questions about building one then feel free to get in touch.

reguards adrian neaves.

post-9878-1231865550_thumb.jpg

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As said before, buying a prebuilt car is the cheapest way to get started. I started out in a 88" 3.5 hybrid and got used to racing and workout what I wanted and not wast time fitting and doing mods without the experience of why. I bought a old classic of my own to race after a line of accidents and self preservation and the guy I teamed up with just kept crashing the hybrid. the RRC was a grate car but I only raced it for one season and suffered a silly persistent reliability problem which resolved its self after I bought the freelander rally spec car. My racing took off when I got the freelander which was the best start up car you could have to learn in as its half way between a compsafari car and a rally car IMHO

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once again as all ready said before, the cheaper option and less headache's trust me. i've not that long just finished my racer, (6 months ago), and at a cost of over £19K. it is a 88" ALRC spec racer with a 3.4 high revving (9K) v8 with a 3 speed full reverse pattern auto box with big shocks. if i was going to do it again i would buy a car all ready done and race it for a season and then do the mods once you have learnt the car and know how to improve it.

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the hi revving v8 is based on a rover v8 the block is the same, the pistons are flat top, the crank and cam are made specialy for this top of engine as normal v8's tend to snap the crank and cam about 6500 rpm. this engine was designed to compete with the regs racing out in france. it but you in the smaller engine size class which ment you didn't have to carry the extra weight the the rules stated but it ment that you still had the power of the big block v8's 5ltr up.

it's F**king loud at 9000 rpm but boy does it shift. with my gear box set up i'm doing 0-60 time in less than 5 seconds.

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very similar. had a couple of problems getting it to run right. but got rid of the 3.5 injection system with mark adams ecu (for sale by the way) and but a 3.9 setup on it with megasquirt. next step is to go coil pack. see if i can get any more out of it but still making it reliable.

o and try to remeber about the split and merge,not to do a 90 left flat out.

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