Anderzander Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 1. I'm going to install a cb onto the bulkhead behind the seats... is there a switched live anyone could recommend that's around there? I'm not brilliant with the new style wiring diagrams that are in my Haynes...... I know its best to have the cleanest source possible, ie straight from the battery, but I'm concerned about it being left on. 2. I'm also going to move the ECU out from under the seat onto the bulkhead - and move the fuses out too. Do I need to disconnect the battery before I remove the ECU? is it possible it might spike it or is it insulated enough? I haven't properly looked underneath yet - but I'm thinking I can drill a couple of holes into the floor behind the seats, use the original rubber grommets (seals) and run the wiring up there instead of into the underseat box. (I'm doing this so I can fit my hydraulic reservoir there) 3. I found this rolling about in the cab? what is it? 4 If I'm putting a H14W hydraulic winch on the front of my truck = what up-rated springs can anyone recommend? would a set of rears be ok? Any help greatly appreciated! Thank you!! Quote
western Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 looks like a wading plug for a older vehicle, the R380 main gearbox has a drain hole in the bottom of the clutch bell housing, it might fit there, but my 380's wading plug has a head with a flange around it, you only need 1 for the gearbox, engine doesn't need one. wiring for the CB can come direct off the battery [use a suitable fuse in each wire] & route to whereever you want to mount the CB rig. Quote
Anderzander Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 Thanks! I'll have a look underneath. I read that some people don't bother with a plug on the bell housing because the centrifugal force of the clutch throws it all outwards so it drains off anyway... is that right? or would you recommend using the plug? Quote
western Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 I would use the plug as it keeps dirty gritty water away from the clutch assembly. Quote
Anderzander Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 I had a bit more luck searching for previous answers on the springs..... so sorted there! Here for anyone who turns this up in a future search! Just need to answer the cdi question now......? anyone know? Quote
Les Henson Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 I would run a fresh supply for the CB - TD5's being a bit touchy about leccy mods If you are worried about the cb being left on with the ignition off, then fit a relay linked to the ignition, so that when the ignition is off, the cb gets turned off too in much the say way that car radios are. A simple relay is available from most motor factors for about a fiver, and they come with a wiring diagram. Les. Quote
SteveG Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 Do you really need to relocate your ECU?? If you are moving it for wading I wouldn't bother as you still have you 10AS ecu on the bulkhead. A simple fix would be to silicon seal the holes on the base of the ecu. If you are moving it for your tank, can't you fit this externally in the big space under the drivers seat box? If you do decide to move, yes take off battery leads before starting. Steve Quote
Anderzander Posted January 8, 2009 Author Posted January 8, 2009 Thanks for the reply Steve. It's not really motivated by wading depth - though I thought the 10AS unit was behind the clocks? The valves and filler etc are on the top of the reservoir, which would fill the seat box. The pipes will be able to exit through the holes the ECU wiring used. I think its the only place to fit it without incurring some compromises on either filling/draining it or routing the pipe work. I appreciate the input though! Thanks. Quote
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