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Mega Jolt on a RRC


reggie

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I've just put a post up about the problem I'm having with my RRC losing all spark from the coil.

I'm just debating on whether to go get a new ignition amp & try that but now my head has started thinking about modifying again :rolleyes:

I've heard about this mega jolt system but to be honest I don't have a clue about it so I need some info.

  1. What does it replace?
  2. what components do I need?
  3. Whats the cost involved?
  4. Most importantly, what are the benefits of it?

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  1. What does it replace?
  2. what components do I need?
  3. Whats the cost involved?
  4. Most importantly, what are the benefits of it?

Replaces the dizzy and coil.

Components....Megajolt kit or built (see For Sale section), 2 Ford escort coil packs and brackets from a breakers + the HT lead connectors at the coil + the electrical connectors, Escort VR sensor (breakers), A Ford transit Trigger wheel (1078767 £16.58), An Edis8 module (from FridgeFreezer or ebay).

Benefits are monster sparks and mappable ignition eliminating the vagarities of the worn dizzy. Ability to drive under water although there are other considerations.

Steve

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I also have laser cut bolt-on Rover V8 trigger wheels & brackets now. RangeyRover is your man for MegaJolt and EDIS8's, I hold MegaSquirt and EDIS8's.

FF - Do you have a couple of pictures of your v8 trigger wheels & brackets.

I guess I'm just being a bit lazy, but a bolt on solution would save some time.

I have already googled & had a quick look on the forum.

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Well I've been reading about megajolt & it sounds like a good system but now I've been thinking about megasquirt instead :P

The reason being is that I haven't had my petrol system running for over a year now & I was going to take it to an auto electrician to get it running again.

But then I got thinking if whats the point in fitting megajolt & then paying someone to fix my fuel system when I can fit megasquirt & do the whole thing in one.

I did read somewhere that the two are different systems & you can't upgrade from megajolt to megasquirt, you have to decide on one or the other, is this right?

Also am I right in thinking that megasquirt will replace my current fuel system, you know is it plug & play or is there still a lot of wiring in to the existing fuel system? Would I still have to get my fuel system sorted by an electrician first before I fit megasquirt?

I think you can see where I'm coming from, basically at the moment the Rangie only runs on LPG & has done for over a year due to a rather deep ford, it hasn't run on petrol since that incident & I would like it back to being duel fuel. I have tried changing Ecu's, fuel pumps, relays etc to no avail, so is it time to save up for megasquirt ?

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Reggie,

Not wishing to come across as a grumpy git but if you use the search button all your questions should be answered :P

A MegaJolt can't be made into a MegaSquirt but you can re-use the EDIS8 with MegaSquirt and sell the MegaJolt unit. MS isn't plug-and-play, you need to be able to read a wiring diagram and work a pair of crimpers in a competent manner. If your current loom is FUBAR then MS isn't going to fix it, if however it's your ECU or airflow meter then both those go in the bin with MS so in that respect it may solve a problem. Best advice is to work though the fault finding guide in the tech archive and if the loom checks out and the fault looks like AFM or ECU you're good to go.

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Reggie,

Not wishing to come across as a grumpy git but if you use the search button all your questions should be answered :P

A MegaJolt can't be made into a MegaSquirt but you can re-use the EDIS8 with MegaSquirt and sell the MegaJolt unit. MS isn't plug-and-play, you need to be able to read a wiring diagram and work a pair of crimpers in a competent manner. If your current loom is FUBAR then MS isn't going to fix it, if however it's your ECU or airflow meter then both those go in the bin with MS so in that respect it may solve a problem. Best advice is to work though the fault finding guide in the tech archive and if the loom checks out and the fault looks like AFM or ECU you're good to go.

Thanks fridge, that's just cleared up a few things for me anyway, I've tried all the bolt on bits like Ecu's etc so it looks like I'll have to get the loom side of things working first before I even think about megasquirt. Also I'm no good with electrics either so looks like I would struggle anyhow if I have to understand a wiring diagram :blink:

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If it's got wet, you need to check every connector for corrosion - check, and either clean up or replace.

They will be well & truly corroded by now as it was over a year ago. After it happened I removed all relays & ECU's from under the seats, dried them out, sprayed WD40 where I could to try to chase out any moisture. Swapped the petrol ECU for a working one, had to change the ABS ECU as that was knackered, tired a few different fuel pumps & then swapped all the relays for ones out of a working rangie & it still wouldn't run on petrol. After all that a friend tested the power to the fuel pump & it was only 5 volts if I remember rightly & at that point we thought it needs to go to an auto electrician :o

I've been running it ever since on just LPG as didn't want to fork out lots of cash for fault finding etc at a garage.

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Would now be a good time to mention I sell custom MS engine looms? :D

Probably not as I'm skint :rolleyes:

But seriously how much would one of those set me back & could I use that alone to get it running on petrol again or do I still have to get the old system working first. Getting this thing running again duel fuel is a first priority, finished modding for a while so a MS loom might be a good start.

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May still be worth installing the Megasquirt and seeing what it tells you about inputs from the rest of the system - unlike hotwire you can just plug in an ordinary laptop with some free software on it and see exactly what's going on. I had a problem with the hotwire system on my old Range Rover that I couldn't trace - installed the Megasquirt (it was actually already there, but only running the ignition) and lo and behold I had intermittent connections to both lambda sensors. I'd already been through all the hotwire diagnostics and not been able to pin the problem down. The wiring all checked out as it had a connection when it wasn't running, it was only once the vibrations from the engine started shaking things around that it started continuously making and breaking. Yours sounds a bit more permanent and therefore easier to track down, though.

I have to say, after struggling for years with weird electrical issues after just shipping a bit of water through the vents (and discovering when the dash was out for a new heater matrix that all the connectors were full of mud), if I was Megasquirting another Range Rover I'd start from scratch with a brand new loom.

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