neil00001 Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 Hi All, Have discovered that my half shafts are on the way out, so my question is: Are all Salisbury half shafts the same apart from one side is shorter than the other. I have seen part numbers, are these correct for my axle FTC1724 - Axle Shaft RH FTC1725 - Axle Shaft LH Need to replace flanges at the same time? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil00001 Posted February 7, 2009 Author Share Posted February 7, 2009 Did I ask a dumb question???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 No you didn't ask a dumb question. There are a number of Salisbury axles. The Defender is only one. The flanges normally loose their splines first. Because the halfshaft end and the flange doesn't get looked after and lubricated on a regular basis. You will find quite a bit of movement in the halfshaft end at the flange. Personally I wouldn't worry. Oil the splines each service and carry a couple of spare new flanges. My seven and sixpence worth. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treebloke Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Slightly OT but I have never snapped a salisbury shaft, even with 35" simex. I check them every two or three events and change them when the splines begin to displace and have always replaced with good 2nd hand ones @ around £15. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Get them Tig welded like mine. Then there cannot be any play... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluespanner Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Tig? That sounds awful technical to me Jim. I used 180 amps of bzzzzzzzzzzt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheHarv Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 I've been trying to understand the P/Ns too and from what I can make out FTC1724/5 are for the later (i.e. disk braked - from LAxxxx) axle and FRC2454/5 are for the older (i.e. drum braked - to KAxxxx) As to the actual difference I don't know - the disk braked ones have a raised machined section where they go through the stub axle oil seal - maybe this is missing on the earlier ones which lubricated the hub bearings with oil from the axle? Hopefully a grownup will be able to set us straight... I need to replace mine too, I already did the drive members (flanges) but I pulled the shafts and the wear on the inner splines is worse than the outers. Since the LR ones cost a left nut over here I was going to see if Longfield do anything. John H. -- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil00001 Posted February 8, 2009 Author Share Posted February 8, 2009 Thanks all for your replies, The part numbers I mentioned came from Paddocks (16,50 +VAT) but they also cross reference with Bearmach, so they should be the same ???.........dont really want to buy a couple of kgs of cheese Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 They are different lengths between the disc and drum braked rears. Different bearing spacing on the hubs, etc. Stock axles are soft, drive flanges aren't much better which is why most here use Hi-Tough (nee Maxi Drive) or Rover Tracks axles from the US (better as they are one piece flange/axle) If using two piece (axle + drive flange) Use an early style RTC 3511 hub seal (mounted 4mm inside the hub face) and ditch the axle tube seal. The splines will last forever then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 Tig? That sounds awful technical to me Jim. I used 180 amps of bzzzzzzzzzzt The problem is that the half shafts and drive members are dissimilar steels. We have found that stick or MIG welded half shafts break at the weld sooner or later. If TIG welded, they don't. Tip: don't weld on the inside of the drive member as the end of the shaft will break off quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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