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Salisbury rear half shafts

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Hi All,

Have discovered that my half shafts are on the way out,

so my question is:

Are all Salisbury half shafts the same apart from one side is shorter than the other.

I have seen part numbers, are these correct for my axle

FTC1724 - Axle Shaft RH

FTC1725 - Axle Shaft LH

Need to replace flanges at the same time?


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No you didn't ask a dumb question.

There are a number of Salisbury axles. The Defender is only one.

The flanges normally loose their splines first. Because the halfshaft end and the flange doesn't get looked after and lubricated on a regular basis.

You will find quite a bit of movement in the halfshaft end at the flange. Personally I wouldn't worry. Oil the splines each service and carry a couple of spare new flanges.

My seven and sixpence worth.


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I've been trying to understand the P/Ns too and from what I can make out FTC1724/5 are for the later (i.e. disk braked - from LAxxxx) axle and FRC2454/5 are for the older (i.e. drum braked - to KAxxxx)

As to the actual difference I don't know - the disk braked ones have a raised machined section where they go through the stub axle oil seal - maybe this is missing on the earlier ones which lubricated the hub bearings with oil from the axle?

Hopefully a grownup will be able to set us straight...

I need to replace mine too, I already did the drive members (flanges) but I pulled the shafts and the wear on the inner splines is worse than the outers. Since the LR ones cost a left nut over here I was going to see if Longfield do anything.

John H.


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They are different lengths between the disc and drum braked rears.

Different bearing spacing on the hubs, etc.

Stock axles are soft, drive flanges aren't much better which is why most here use Hi-Tough (nee Maxi Drive) or Rover Tracks axles from the US (better as they are one piece flange/axle)

If using two piece (axle + drive flange) Use an early style RTC 3511 hub seal (mounted 4mm inside the hub face) and ditch the axle tube seal.

The splines will last forever then.

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Tig? That sounds awful technical to me Jim. I used 180 amps of bzzzzzzzzzzt :D

The problem is that the half shafts and drive members are dissimilar steels. We have found that stick or MIG welded half shafts break at the weld sooner or later. If TIG welded, they don't.

Tip: don't weld on the inside of the drive member as the end of the shaft will break off quickly.


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