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Krypton Factor Spot Light Challenge


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OK, this has had me baffled for a few hours, I must be losing it. :doh:

When I purchased my D90 the wires for the spotlights were already in place, when i fitted the roll cage last week I put some other spotlights on, I did a test for voltage and it was around 9v hmmmm I thought anyhow I started tracing the wires back and found a bit of a mess, so I decided to remove it all and start again.

I have wired a 27A cable from the battery isolator to my main panel and used this to spur off to a few items, air pump and 2 pairs of spots.

Now the original set up had the following, 4 spots 100W each, but only 1 relay I always use 1 for each pair, a dashboard switch to isolate the spots and a light to show when there is power to the spotlight relay.

100_4040.jpg

Wired like this

spotwiringold.jpg

Now I want to keep the same use for the switch and the light, but want to have the main load going in and out of the relay and not via the switch or the light, I can wire it up using the switch only and channel the power from the flasher stalk as the trigger for the relay, but how can I have the light on showing there is power to the spotlight relay, if I do it off the stalk there will only be power when I pull it back or push forward.

this is how far I have got, can anyone fill in the blanks please

spotwiringnew.jpg

I have even looked at buying the Mud Console but cannot work out how I can do this with carling switches

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So you want the "light" to go on when the switch is on but not necessarily the flasher stalk? I assume what you are showing is that the spots go on with the high beam headlamps and the switch on?

I think your only option is a double pole switch. The second pole on the switch is used just for powering the indicator light. Double pole switches are pretty common.

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Errr, what? :blink:

If you want the light on when the relay is on, either take the wire from the switch-to-relay wire, or the relay-to-lights wire. I can't see why you'd need a DP switch at all :unsure:

Are you saying you want:

1) Spots on only when main beam is on AND switch is on

2) Spots on when main beam is on OR switch is on

3) Spots that can be on when the switch is on regardless of main beam, switched off, or switched on only when main beam is on (ON/OFF/Auto if you like)

If you can describe reasonably accurately what you want the lights to do I will get the crayons out :P

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So you want the spot lights to be able to turn on, when your high beam wire is activated.

If so, you tap into the high beam wire as this will only be active when the high beam is on,

and connect this to the seperate relay you are using to power the spots, running the wire through a carling switch.

Then wire the relay as normal for the spots using the correct fuse / relay, 30amp usually does most spots.

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I am using 2 relays, I only put in one relay for an example.

Thanks for you help, wonder if Mud Stuff sell them

Errr, what? :blink:

If you want the light on when the relay is on, either take the wire from the switch-to-relay wire, or the relay-to-lights wire. I can't see why you'd need a DP switch at all :unsure:

Are you saying you want:

1) Spots on only when main beam is on AND switch is on

2) Spots on when main beam is on OR switch is on

3) Spots that can be on when the switch is on regardless of main beam, switched off, or switched on only when main beam is on (ON/OFF/Auto if you like)

If you can describe reasonably accurately what you want the lights to do I will get the crayons out :P

I know how to wire the spots up in the normal fashion, the 3 points i want to get round are these.

I want to have the lights run off the high beam = easy connect the high beam wire as the switch to the relay =done

I dont want to run the main power to the spots through the switch or light = so it goes in and out of the relay =done

I had as in picture 1 a green indicator light which shows when there is power to the relay/spots, the only way i can see to do this is if i run the + power through the switch then the indicator light then back to the main power input to the relay, which as I said I want to avoid. I cannot run it off the highbeam light as this is only active when i pull or push it.

HTH

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The high beam light will have power all the time it is in high beam.

Connect the light to the output from the relay and it will light up when the spot lights are actually switched on, why would you want to know there is power to the relay when they are off?

:blink:

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The high beam light will have power all the time it is in high beam.

Connect the light to the output from the relay and it will light up when the spot lights are actually switched on, why would you want to know there is power to the relay when they are off?

:blink:

Hi Simon, the switch does not have lighting behind it so at night I can't see anything in the cab, having the light this gives me the knowledge that there is power to them, there is no point fitting it to the output of the relay as all being well there should be 4 spotlights on when triggered.

To put it simply, at night how do you know if a switch is on or off, I have around 10 switch's on the dash and it's good to know what is active.

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I recognise most of the words being used here but this still isn't making the most sense in the world :ph34r:

I had as in picture 1 a green indicator light which shows when there is power to the relay/spots, the only way i can see to do this is if i run the + power through the switch then the indicator light then back to the main power input to the relay, which as I said I want to avoid. I cannot run it off the highbeam light as this is only active when i pull or push it.

If I've followed this correctly you have 12v connected to both sides of the indicator light, which is not going to work :huh:

How exactly do you want your spotlights to work in relation to the switch, the stalk,and the indicator lamp?

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