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adapting new front seats


tiagoc

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I remember seeing some pictures (here or on someone's website) detailing the installation of different front seats on a SIII. I'm gathering some info on this subject, taking ideas and checking for possible mistakes to avoid. I'm not worried too much about the type of the new seats. Only "issue" is that they will not have runners (I'm a long-legged chap, and the current seats don't have runners. too).

So, where can I see some pictures and details about adapting new front seats to a SIII? :P

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Travel ye forums.

From my travels I've learnt MkII MR2, Fiat Uno and the rear bench out of a RRC fit.

If that's any help :D

Thanks, but I'm not so much after "what fits" but more "how it was fitted".

I know the "what seats fit Series" question was already asked million times before, but pictures speak a thousand words and I bet someone out there must have documented very well the entire process, regardless of the type of seats (but I realize some seats require different solutions).

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I fitted MGB seats to my S3 many moons ago. The MGB seats have a lot of slide in the sliders and I know you don't want/need sliders but they allowed the seats to go a long way back (as well as forwards). The seats also recline and tip forward and have a nice adjustable headrest. MGB club shops etc can supply new leather, vinyl or cloth covers. I made my own.

In an MGB the seats runners sit on two strips of hard wood about 6mm thick each with clearance holes for two thick steel spacers for the bolts. I cut two new hard wood spacers on a taper to fit the slope on the Land Rover seat box to make it level and then, using two of the MGB spacers at the front and two bits of 1/2" gas pipe as spacers at the back, I bolted the seats in. Raising the back of the runners does two things. It makes the seat level and it allows the seat runners to go further back over the seat box upstand in into the space behind the seat giving further backwards movement. At least it does on a Safari as there is no bulkhead behind the seat.

Really comfortable, for me at least, and if I get another S3 I would do the same again.

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my very first landy was a s111 swb and it was fitted with rover sd1 cloth seats mounted on 2" box section steel and the seats were fitted too close to the doors so as a driver i was always banging my right arm when turning so i changed them for series seats.

graham

________________________

1962 2a swb 200 tdi.

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I fitted MGB seats to my S3 many moons ago. etc

A very useful post, thanks. Not so much for the fact MGB seats were used, but for explaining the principles behind the adaptations used.

Just to emphasise one point or principle, look at the mounting the donor seats came from. If it was flat, as the MGB the floor is flat, then adapters will be required to make the top of the Series seatbox flat.

I think your post comes closest to answering the original question.

Cheers.

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I think your post comes closest to answering the original question.

You're right! That's exactly the type of info I'm after.

NT: If you happen to have some pictures of the job, throw them in here... ;) Thanks!

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Not got photos as it was a long time ago, early 80's, but the job was fairly simple to do.

I first placed a lump of wood across the back edge of the set box to level things up a bit and then just placed the seat over the top and sat on it.

I then shuffled about a bit taking the seat with me until the position felt right and straight.

I then reached down with a marker pen to mark where the edges of the seat runners touched the front edge of the seat box for lateral location.

I then took a straight line up the front face of the seat box to the seat squab to see how far it over hung the seat box.

With that done I could get out and slide the sliders back and forth to get them located in such a way that they didn't stick out from the seat box too much but still allowed movement in both directions.

One bolt was fitted to the front of each runner by drilling through the seat box and it was bolted down with the original metal spacer ring.

I could then measure the height difference at the back of the seat box, with some packing until the seat felt level, and make up a hard wood strip. One rectangular block of wood cut on the correct slope gives both side packers.

The bolt holes were marked in the wood to match the runners and drilled with an Augar wood bit and a bit of gas pipe pushed in.

With the wood packer bolted to the seat box on the front bolt I could square up the wood to the seat location and then drill through the seat box.

The seat was then bolted in with big, massive 'penny' washers to spread the bolt load across the seat box aluminium.

The wood doesn't need to be much, I used a bit of 40mm thick oak off cut on edge that gave a nice 40 mm wide packer.

It does restrict access to the seat box storage but the seat slides a long way so it wasn't too bad. Also there is a lot of under seat space between the seat squab and the seat box for reaching in.

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i have ford fiesta seats in my series 3

they are bolted on 2 flat metal plates, about 4mm thick, which then bolt down onto captive studs i fitted into the runners on the seat base

i will get some pics of it tonight when i get home

Ian

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