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Auto Gearbox Selector.....Linear Actuator??


smo

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Heres one for all you electro-mechanical guru's.

Is it possible to replace the standard auto gearbox selector with a linear actuator and some sort of rotary switch arrangement?

The reason is i need a selector for the d-lander but dont really have room, because of cable lengths and other stuff it would end up in a less than ideal position so im looking for alternatives and thought replacing the cable with a linear actuator, and controlling it via (a circuit?) and a rotary or even linear slide switch would be a much neater and really cool solution.

So, is it possible, how, and does anyone want to help me make it work??

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Heres one for all you electro-mechanical guru's.

Is it possible to replace the standard auto gearbox selector with a linear actuator and some sort of rotary switch arrangement?

The reason is i need a selector for the d-lander but dont really have room, because of cable lengths and other stuff it would end up in a less than ideal position so im looking for alternatives and thought replacing the cable with a linear actuator, and controlling it via (a circuit?) and a rotary or even linear slide switch would be a much neater and really cool solution.

So, is it possible, how, and does anyone want to help me make it work??

Hi Me again , why not use the std switch but connect it to the pivot of the auto selector so it will marry up with the auto pattern and the wiring. A simple "D" shaped shaft should be able to attached to the pivot point to actuate it.

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Have a look at this...

Looks remarkably like a Smiths wiper motor to me.

Funnily enough I have a similar set up on a locking ATV diff at work. It switches between no drive > open diff > locked diff. It's very neat. The actuator is removable but, unfortunately, the contact board is built into the diff casing.

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Hi SMO

I've been having a think about what you need , when I worked on touring cars we used sequential Xtrac gearboxes and I have just been on thier site and they still make the simple sensor and display unit that can be configured for any shift pattern.

Potentiometer and Gear Display Kit '00P-192-063'

Xtrac sequential gearboxes are generally fitted with sensors so they can be integrated into the cars management and telemetry systems.

This is a new stand-alone product that can be fitted to our sequential transmission. It measures the gearchange barrel position to display the current selected gear to the driver. The device uses a state of the art microcontroller technology to give a reliable, lightweight unit that displays the selected gear on a high intensity LED display. The display incorporates a light sensor which automatically adjusts the display brightness to match the ambient light conditions, ideal for endurance racing.

The unit is simple to install. All that is required are for connections to be made to the 12v vehicle supply and ground. The connections to the potentiometer are made using the high quality wiring harness supplied, which uses environmentally sealed automotive connectors. In addition, the unit is fully reverse polarity protected and cannot be damaged by incorrect wiring.

Hope this helps.

Jon

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Interesting stuff, thanks Jon - do you think it could be coupled to an actuator as well?

Not sure we always used bowden cables with remote lever, the system we used in the Prodrive rally cars was steering wheel mounted buttons and air actuated with a very small double acting ram with the same Xtrac sensor to monitor position and a RS timing relay to regulate how long the air valve stayed open and how much pressure was allowed through, bloody complicated though. Cant you have a small custom selector lever tucked away operrating via a bowden cable.

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Possibly, it would certainly be easier, however i looked at customising the TD5 shifter and its all plastic and crappy so it would mean making one from scratch possibly????

It would be more straight forward and cheaper than all the kit we've been looking at. At the end of the day with an auto you only put it gear at the start of the journey and take it out at the end so it's position isn't as critical as a manual lever.

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SMO, look at 'switch-shift' feature in your CompuShift.

In full manual mode you can change gear with two push buttons (like paddle shift in F1). There are no safe guards in this mode, so you can put it in 1st at 70 or leave it in 4th all the time......both would be bad :)

.....was thinking that that would eliminate the need for a selector....or simplify the selector some what.

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The selector cable moves a rotatory switch on the side of the box......surely it's just a case of wiring that into the cab so that you can select D-N-R-P :D

I dont know.....you tell me?? I thought it was a mechanical process of selecting the park/drive/reverse etc??

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post-2053-1237828874_thumb.jpg

Whilst the cable is a problem a bigger one is simply fitting and nicely mounting the lever.

As you can see in the photo imagine where ones arm is when sitting, the space between the hi-lo and it being un-usably far back isnt much hence wanting an alternative solution...

EDIT: Unless of course i remove the auto, sell it and the compushift and return it to a manual as originally intended???

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Glynn Yates and John Sales have the auto shifter built into the dash, high up to avoid it getting full of sludge etc, I've mounted mine on a frame affair above the high/low shifter for the same reasons, working on the principle its very rare it moves out of low/difflock so doesn't cause a big problem moving it.

Andb is bob on when he says it's mechanical link, the lever on the outside of the box acts directly onto the valve block and the park position is a mechanical linkage inside the box to the rachet pawl on the back of the box, if you've seen the pawl and it's strength you would certainly take it out of park when using it as an anchor in a comp etc and rely on chocks or the handbrake, it's not the strongest bit of kit in the world, but then again I don't supose it was meant to be.

Don't put the manual back in it will be a massive step in the wrong direction.

Good luck

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If I were going to do something like this - I'd use a large RC servo to move the actuator / Push/Pull the cable. Servos are very reliable and waterproof - so should be pretty reliable.

For control, I'd use a microcontroller which spits out the right PWM for the servo positions associated with the different gears. Then use a series of push buttons to select the individual gears as required.

Si

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