Paul Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 My clutch has just sent up the white flag, so it's gearbox removal time for me this weekend. I intend to take the gearbox and transfer box out in step this time as I have access to an engine crane. Assuming I take the floor/trans tunnel out and suspend the gearbox & trans box that way, approx where is the point that the two units will almost balance if suspended? My guess would be approx where they bolt together, but I'm not certain. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 Paul they'll try and tip over sideways rather than fore/aft, far safer to remove the transfer box first then the gearbox. are you just doing the clutch? if yes you can do it without removing the boxes by removing the floor panels and the propshafts then slide the gearbox back just enough to get at the clutch cover. fit a 130 clutch plate for added strength whilst your at it. the plate fits the normal cover but is just a little larger in friction surface area Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted March 3, 2006 Author Share Posted March 3, 2006 Thanks Tony. This sounds interesting. Are you saying I can remove the clutch cover & plate without taking the gearbox out? What stops the boxes trying to tip/drop once it's unbolted and pulled back off the bellhousing dowels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 Yes it will still try to turn when you get it off the studs but without a lift that's the way I used to do it. I also have two long bolts the same thread as the bellhousing studs. I remove two studs as near the horizontal as possible and fit the two long bolts. These two bolts are about three inches long [75mm] and I've cut the heads off and cut screwdriver slots into the top of them. The gearbox bell housing sits on these two bolts when you refit the gearbox. Makes the job easier for me. Remove those two bolts and refit the studs when you have the box in position. HTH I eat rat poison mike I can cause trouble in an empty house !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 Mikes covered it a couple of trolley jacks or blocks the rest it on would suffice. it saves removing the entire box/transfer box just for a clutch change though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 If you use two loops of rope to hold the transmission, then it'll stay fairly level. Put one loop front to back on the gearbox, and then a seperate loop from behind the handbrake drum only. The gearbox loop stops front to back tilting, and the handbrake one stops the unit from rotating. I never completely remove the transmission when replacing clutches - they're far too heavy for all that nonsense. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 I'v had a thought on this..... As I mentioned long bolts to line the gearbox up to the engine. What are your thoughts on using longer bolts.Maybe four or six of them across the bottom of the bellhousing to hold the gearbox in place so it doesnt cant over ? Taking the clutch bits out through the top. Would it work? I eat rat poison mike I can cause trouible in an empty house !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 The bolts size is M10 isn't it Mike? I would have thought that just a couple of long studs would be sufficient to align it all. As long as no great weight was put on the studs it should help a lot. I think the ahievable gap is around 7", so if you were to put two or three 10-inch studs in place before seperating the engine from the box- then I should imagine it would work very well. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 i use those small ratchet straps, one front and one rear. it will tyr and twist as above but at least with these you have some play to adjust strap lenght with the ratchet front or back if theres an issue putting it back in. use the same for engine changes as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 The bolts size is M10 isn't it Mike? I would have thought that just a couple of long studs would be sufficient to align it all. As long as no great weight was put on the studs it should help a lot. I think the ahievable gap is around 7", so if you were to put two or three 10-inch studs in place before seperating the engine from the box- then I should imagine it would work very well. Les. It was a thought Les. I wonder if anybody will try it. I might when I need to do my clutch,bet you I've forgotten the idea when it goes from push to shove. I eat rat poison mike I can cause trouble in an empty house !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHAVED_GORILLA Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 I always prefer to take the engine out to do the clutch. It is more work in some respects but always seems to be less hassle and quicker. SG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 I always prefer to take the engine out to do the clutch.It is more work in some respects but always seems to be less hassle and quicker. SG true if you.... A Have the room and a flat floor for the crane. B Are not on a bonus scheme. If I remember the engine removal time is twice that of the gearbox removal time. I eat rat poison mike I can cause trouble in an empty house !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 I suppose the only other possible problem is how stressed the studs have been in the past. I've had to unfortunately get welded quite a few in the past where either someone has lowered the engine onto the studs or done something else to damage the alloy Would think three extra-long studs along the bottom would be the absolute minimum to try and prevent the lever-loads that may develop as the gearbox tries to swing. One benefit of starting doing this, replace the studs with bolts when you put it back together in the locations you have used, when you come to do it in the future you just remove the standard length bolts and fit the extra lengths Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 I suppose the only other possible problem is how stressed the studs have been in the past. I've had to unfortunately get welded quite a few in the past where either someone has lowered the engine onto the studs or done something else to damage the alloy Would think three extra-long studs along the bottom would be the absolute minimum to try and prevent the lever-loads that may develop as the gearbox tries to swing. One benefit of starting doing this, replace the studs with bolts when you put it back together in the locations you have used, when you come to do it in the future you just remove the standard length bolts and fit the extra lengths I think you have it exactly the way I'm thinking. I would also think a plank under the gearbox might help as well. Mind you with a ramp/lift and three of you it's an easy job ! When I was working in the 1970's on Transits I worked night shift. I did a lot of clutche changes.I'll not tell you the time I had the job down to but I expected to have the vehicle back out in the hour!! One night we did three clutches. The first one was normal.The second we could hardly lift the gearbox and shouted for help. The third one took four of us to lift the box up.We never tried that many in one night again. I eat rat poison mike I can cause trouble in an empty house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 I think you have it exactly the way I'm thinking.I would also think a plank under the gearbox might help as well. Mind you with a ramp/lift and three of you it's an easy job ! When I was working in the 1970's on Transits I worked night shift. I did a lot of clutche changes.I'll not tell you the time I had the job down to but I expected to have the vehicle back out in the hour!! One night we did three clutches. The first one was normal.The second we could hardly lift the gearbox and shouted for help. The third one took four of us to lift the box up.We never tried that many in one night again. I eat rat poison mike I can cause trouble in an empty house. talking of planks, I suppose if you had a 5' Hi lift, and a short length of plank, would it be possible to put the plank under the transfer case diff end and lower the car so it is resting very gently on the plank and top of the hi lift lift strut, so that it can slid back on that to support the weight, a bit of WD40 on the top of the plank would help it slide. Difficult trying to imagine it as never had to touch a LT77/LT230 combination ouch! my backs aching just at the thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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