bit Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 It's a nice silver Freelander, year 2000 benzine, 1.8 The problem is that aftre 3 hours of driving it starts to die; I press the accelerator, but the engine does not respond with power or speed or RPM. It dies slowly, 20-40 minutes to complete stall. And then even 1st gear doesn't move the car. The replacement of fuel pump didn't help. Fule tank cap off doesn't help. Full or empty tank doesn't matter. Complete cooling of the engine revives it to another 3 hours of joyfull ride. Why 3 hours, I don't really know. I wish it would be 5 hours... I managed to develope a technic of turning ignition off while going downhill. 20-30 seconds with ignition off gives me another 1 minute of somewhat control. Please share your ideas, what might be wrong with the car? I'm really puzzeled by the combination of the engine performance... Many thanks, Leonid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imspanners Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 Does it run if you take out the oxygen/lambda sensor? The exhaust or catalyst could be blocked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 Does it run if you take out the oxygen/lambda sensor? The exhaust or catalyst could be blocked. Errr, what? How can the exhaust system be blocked enough to stall the engine but only after 3 hours driving? I'd start with heat-related failure, ignition coil(s) would seem a likely candidate what with them being on the engine, a component that can fail when hot and a component that is capable of causing that failure. Doubt very much it's lambda sensor related, that should be up to temperature within 5 minutes of driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viorelluta Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 I also have a 1.8 engine, please check again the head gasket related issues (although I think that the mechanics checked those when they replaced the fuel pump). Check again the coolant and the oil. When engine stops, does any warning light go on? By the way, while surfing for such problem I found this "wonder product": http://www.heal-a-seal.com/ I personally don't trust such stuff, have any of you tried it? Viorel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 I managed to develope a technic of turning ignition off while going downhill. 20-30 seconds with ignition off gives me another 1 minute of somewhat control. I used to do this 'to save fuel' when I was seventeen, until one day I went too far and locked the steering. With EXTREEEM GOOD FORTUNE there was a pub car-park entrance directly on my vector (the road swung left) which I shot into at about 30mph. The car-park was gravel and I slid to a halt inches from a bay window framing two old laidies who looked quite gob-smacked. Seemed like an age later that a bucketful of gravel hit the window... I NEVER want to rely on such "good fortune" again. On a modern car when you turn off the ignition you lose power steering and eventually lose your brakes and risk locking the steering - Sorry to be stuffy, but I think I would rather stop every now and then to let the engine cood... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 If you are coasting in a modern petrol vehicle it will be using zero fuel anyway as the ECU will shut the injectors off on over-run, so you're actually saving nothing and risking loss of PAS/brake servo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bit Posted May 6, 2009 Author Share Posted May 6, 2009 I also have a 1.8 engine, please check again the head gasket related issues (although I think that the mechanics checked those when they replaced the fuel pump). Check again the coolant and the oil. When engine stops, does any warning light go on? Mmmm, how the head gasket gets in a way of fuel pump replacement?... The head gasket was replaced indeed a couple of month ago. How the gasket can be checked for a cause of engine dieing after 3 hours of driving? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 Just because it's a freelander I don't think any fault that pops up is automatically the head gasket You need to think about things that could be affected by heat / vibration and can cause the running problems, I would bet on something electrical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinkbeef Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 Just because it's a freelander I don't think any fault that pops up is automatically the head gasket You need to think about things that could be affected by heat / vibration and can cause the running problems, I would bet on something electrical. I agree with you, people just dont want to think further than the head gasket. "Oh Ive got a flat tyre, that will be the head gasket then". Its carp, and very annoying. Q does the enging compleatly stall, or will it tick over if allowed to after 3 hours. Q can you start the enging after it has stalled, before it coolse down. check the plugs, HT leads, dist cap, unbolt the coil from the head and tie it back away from the head, carry a spare plug with you, next time it stalls, pop one of the leads off shove the plug in it and see if it has a good spark. Id go with a heating problum, coils or a sensor of some sort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bit Posted May 7, 2009 Author Share Posted May 7, 2009 Q does the enging compleatly stall, or will it tick over if allowed to after 3 hours.Q can you start the enging after it has stalled, before it coolse down. The engine will idle with RPM unstable. But any load to the engine (like moving in 1st gear) will stall it. Right after the stall the engine can be started again. For example, I turn it off at the traffic light for 15-30 seconds, then start it up and drive to the next light. check the plugs, HT leads, dist cap, unbolt the coil from the head and tie it back away from the head, carry a spare plug with you, next time it stalls, pop one of the leads off shove the plug in it and see if it has a good spark. I will do that, thanks for an advise. Repair shop asked to drive the car for several hours and when it starts to die they want to hook up a scanner and a pressure gauge in fuel line... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viorelluta Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 Guys, don't crucify me if I suggested the head gasket may be the problem - if you would go to the site I suggestet to check, you could see that one indication for HG problems is progressive loss of power which seems to me pretty close to the description of Leonid. And yes, I know that fuel pump is not in the way, I just supposed that the mechanics checked some other visible stuff when they replaced the pump. I can't wait to find out the real reason of this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 I dont know what kinda coil they use on that engine, but on a lot of the engines that use wasted spark coilpacks the coilpacks are bolted to the cylinder head as a heatsink. Unbolting it and tying it out the way may not be a good idea if this is the case, you'll likely cook the coil/amplifiers etc before you get to 3 hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 If it has a distributor the coil is bolted to the block by the dizzy, if it's later and has coil packs they're on top of the engine so both versions are in a hot place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 yer but what i mean is if the coil pack is of the type which has ignition amplifiers onboard, they are often bolted to the engine block as a heatsink. The packs generate heat, and this heat is dissipated into the engine block. If you unbolt the pack from the engine, then yes the engine will no longer heat the pack up, but the pack will continue to heat itself up, and could quickly exceed its design operating temperature and die as you've basically removed its heatsink. Not saying it will definitely happen in this particular case, but its something to bear in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinkbeef Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 yer but what i mean is if the coil pack is of the type which has ignition amplifiers onboard, they are often bolted to the engine block as a heatsink.The packs generate heat, and this heat is dissipated into the engine block. If you unbolt the pack from the engine, then yes the engine will no longer heat the pack up, but the pack will continue to heat itself up, and could quickly exceed its design operating temperature and die as you've basically removed its heatsink. Not saying it will definitely happen in this particular case, but its something to bear in mind. It's a basic coil pack, no heat sink required. there is only 2 ways for the home mech to test the coil for impedance breakdown under heat stress, replace the coil with another, or place the coil in a place that's cooler than where it is now. I would tie it back away from the head. that said I dont think it is the coil now, but i would still test it just to get it off the list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinkbeef Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 A.....The engine will idle with RPM unstable. But any load to the engine (like moving in 1st gear) will stall it. Forget about carrying a spare plug and trying for a decent spark. if it starts and ticks over it will have a decent spark. The next time you feel the problem starting, pull into a garage and top up the car with petrol and start driving again. I know this sounds dumb but please try this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EggNChips Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 A.....The engine will idle with RPM unstable. But any load to the engine (like moving in 1st gear) will stall it.Forget about carrying a spare plug and trying for a decent spark. if it starts and ticks over it will have a decent spark. The next time you feel the problem starting, pull into a garage and top up the car with petrol and start driving again. I know this sounds dumb but please try this. MAF sensor? They have a heating element that could be breaking down. Try unplugging it and see if the symptoms go away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viorelluta Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Leonid, have you identified the cause to your problem? Let us know, please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viorelluta Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 so, what was the problem, Leonid?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.