dicsosfa Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 hello to one and all (1) i have just installed 4 x 55 watt spots to my 1994 300 tdi disco and i have had mixed answers as to what i need ie. wire size what fuse/relay ratings as i want them to come on with mainbeam but have a switch to turn them off on the dash (2) does anyone know the part numbers for a on/off switch suitable for the spotlight (maybe with warning light on it) that would fit in the spaces under the clock as there is room for 3 or 4 as i want to use landrover ones any help will be welcome Roy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discobandit Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 I used a rear fog light switch. (Fleabay) Had the rear connector and a short length of wire. Sliced it into my new wiring setup and internal lighting circuit. Followed attached diagram. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 spots are around 15 amps, well for my ones they are, and for headlights so i assume its for all spots mine is just wired straight to my headlights, however in my old 110 they were wired to a 3 point switch, one setting for off completely, one setting for on with the headlights and 1 setting for on without the headlights however if you look on t'interweb you should find the appropriate diagrams. i used one for a new mini, its the same principal mikey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dicsosfa Posted May 8, 2009 Author Share Posted May 8, 2009 hi thanks for the info, just wondering i want to use proper connectors so which should i use and what amp rating have seen different one's at the motor shop ie spade/bullet and a piggy back spade one rated @15amps or can i just solder the joints many thanks Roy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlo Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 Watts (bulb 55 or 100) divided by Volts (12) = AMPS So 55 / 12 = 4.5A per lamp (2 lamps = 9 Amps, 4 lamps = 18 Amps) *100 / 12 = 8.3A per lamp (2 lamps = 16.6 Amps, 4 lamps = 33.2 Amps) Your wire, fuses, Relays etc will need to cover these amperages. *100W bulbs are not road legal. (Click image then click it again to supersize it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dicsosfa Posted May 8, 2009 Author Share Posted May 8, 2009 thanks karlo so i take it the in line fuse @20 amps is ok and will connectors of 15 amps be ok Roy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlo Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 thanks karlo so i take it the in line fuse @20 amps is ok and will connectors of 15 amps be ok Roy I wouldn't forsee a problem, I have updated with a diagram I used for mine courtesy of a chap called Evilgoat from another forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dicsosfa Posted May 8, 2009 Author Share Posted May 8, 2009 thanks again will go and get the bits i need 15 amp connectors/12 v relay and a 20 amp in line fuse will keep you posted Roy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 blue connectors are 15 amps, and scotch locks are good for piggybacking, as they are made for the job. i have bullet connectors on the lights and spades everywhere else to the relay etc. mikey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 Don't use scotchlocks whatever you do, cut the wires and crimp inline connectors instead, scothclocks are SOOOOOO unreliable I wouldn't put them on any car I own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dicsosfa Posted May 9, 2009 Author Share Posted May 9, 2009 hi to all lights now done and appear to be ok, the method i used was to run an earth to the lamps fixing bolts on each one,then run a positive from each lamp to the inner wing near the battery to a 15 amp block connector then linked all 4 together and then a wire to the 30 amp relay(which has a built in 30 amp blade fuse) earthed relay to the inner wing and connected the relay to the main beam feed on one side and as i said they work ok but looking at the spots head on the one nearest the battery seems a bit brighter or maybe its just me. again thanks to all that gave me info as always just great people Roy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 it may be that it is at a slightly different height angle to the other, try moving up and down in front of them and you will see if the other gets brighter, if so then just readjust slightly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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