Warthog Posted March 11, 2006 Share Posted March 11, 2006 Well, knew they would go someday....Can you buy an actual replacement fitting to replace it with, or is it a case of cutting out the rust and welding in a plate? Any Advice, much appreciated If someone has any piccies of a new footwell in place? Just to gauge what will be involved. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted March 11, 2006 Share Posted March 11, 2006 I aint had a close look at a Defender bulkhead but would think that it's the same. On the Series III the footwell is seam welded and spot welded to the bulkhead. Below is my repaired bulkhead after new footwells were fitted: around the inside (by the transmission tunnel) the footwells are spot welded and seam welded in places, the tunnel is folded around the footwell material giving a 12mm "tongue" that is used to spot and seam weld the two together. This tongue is on the engine side of the bulkhead. On the door pillar the footwell wraps around the pillar and is seam welded down the edge to the outer edge where the door seal is fitted. This "Z" form provides half of the door pillar strength since when it is removed the door pillar only has two complete sides, with the footwell providing the other two sides At the top of the footwell the bulkhead protrudes down and follows the angle of the footwell providing a welding tongue of about 50mm, this is spot welded and seam welded, providing much fun drilling the old spot welds-out (I know, there's always a couple you miss until you have to chisel them out ). The tongue is on the cab-side of the bulkhead. Below is the drivers side footwell as seen from the engine area: The offside "side plate" for the footwell is normally part of a complete new footwell so don't worry about cutting out the old one, the reinforcing strip at the top by the pillar is a bit of a nuisance, however the real pain is the inner side plate, this including the footwell plate is three sheets thick, an inner cab plate, the footwell plate, and an outer engine area plate in some places, careful drilling of the spot welds will help in allowing this to be retained, but causes some fun when you want to try and slide the new footwell in. Welding wise, best to do it with the bulkhead fitted to the vehicle, that way when you weld it up it won't destort like what mine did (25mm in at the bottom, nneded to use a scissor car jack to jack it out to fit it ) Sure others will provide some Defender-orientated comments Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warthog Posted March 11, 2006 Author Share Posted March 11, 2006 Forgot to mention, the footwells are in a RRC.....Sorry for the lack of infomation Thanks anyway minivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
widget Posted March 11, 2006 Share Posted March 11, 2006 Forgot to mention, the footwells are in a RRC.....Sorry for the lack of infomation Thanks anyway minivan I found it useful! My 90 will need new footwells in the next year or two - it's good to know what's what. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover598 Posted March 11, 2006 Share Posted March 11, 2006 When i replaced the footwells in my Series, I use 2mm steel, should take a bit longer to rust through again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 Forgot to mention, the footwells are in a RRC.....Sorry for the lack of infomation Thanks anyway minivan no probs oh yeah, just incase anyone hasn't noticed in the second picture, I decided to use some clear silicone sealant along the top joint to try and seal it off as much as possibly to slow down the inset of corrosion in the future. I know it will rot at some point, but don't fancy having to replace it in the next ten years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wozza35 Posted March 19, 2006 Share Posted March 19, 2006 no probs oh yeah, just incase anyone hasn't noticed in the second picture, I decided to use some clear silicone sealant along the top joint to try and seal it off as much as possibly to slow down the inset of corrosion in the future. I know it will rot at some point, but don't fancy having to replace it in the next ten years can i ask what colour that is ? warren ps the bulkhead not the silicone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted March 19, 2006 Share Posted March 19, 2006 can i ask what colour that is ?warren ps the bulkhead not the silicone Satin Olive Green, my friendly local powder coater used to do work and used to be in the British Army, so handy when your restoring an ex-MIL vehicle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly Raider Posted March 19, 2006 Share Posted March 19, 2006 Failing that there will be pot loads of it for sale at Sodbury. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomaxcars Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 Hi Warthog, You can get a replacement footwell panels for the RRC: Available from MPS4X4 I'm pretty sure most of the pattern panels are made by SPI the same crowd that make the fuel tanks. Alternatively you can weld in plate where required - as we are doing: http://www.tomaxcars.com/images/hold/bodywork1.jpg http://www.tomaxcars.com/images/hold/bodywork2.jpg http://www.tomaxcars.com/images/hold/bodywork3.jpg http://www.tomaxcars.com/images/hold/bulkhead_weld.jpg Cheers, Andrew Tomax Cars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warthog Posted March 21, 2006 Author Share Posted March 21, 2006 Cheer Andrew, Those images have given me a better scope to judge the job i have managed to do. Try'in to get a good weld on to old sheet metal is a bugger.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WALFY Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 Failing that there will be pot loads of it for sale at Sodbury. Shame that the paint you will be able to get at Sodbury will be carciogenic (sp). We now can only get paint in little pots as touch up or it gets sent away for spraying. So be aware of what you buy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timberdog Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 sorry to but in but nice work on th Lightweight matey ...how did you find best way to remove layers of paint and what was the best tool you used to sand the body down with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ormus Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 nitromoores is the chemical solution. i found a wire brush (cup type) on the electric drill was great for removing paint layers. an orbital sander is the best for sanding down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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