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Hello

I Thought I would add some additional wiring to my doors, through the bulkhead whilst it is easy to do.

So for Electric windows and central locking (if I were to add in the future) what wires should I add.

Another earth, another two power maybe?

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Hi Badg,

I bastardised the loom on my truck and have left the power windows in the loom for future use. The windows have a bespoke plug I've not seen elsewhere and I was surprised at the size of the electric window supplies from memory I suspect they're C 2mm (20amp ish) but the wiring section of the manual should tell you. If you need it shout I've got 300Tdi and TD5 wiring diagrams. :ph34r:

Rob

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Hi Badg,

I bastardised the loom on my truck and have left the power windows in the loom for future use. The windows have a bespoke plug I've not seen elsewhere and I was surprised at the size of the electric window supplies from memory I suspect they're C 2mm (20amp ish) but the wiring section of the manual should tell you. If you need it shout I've got 300Tdi and TD5 wiring diagrams. :ph34r:

Rob

Ah, yeah thanks, I was looking at the amps involved, and most windows are 20 amp... But I think the rest are not so high, so maybe I will put some 12 amp thinwall a couple of larger one just to be sure.

Oh, also attached the story so far on my build.

On that not, does anyone have a good diagram of how the front slam panel and rad link up as I have brackets but they are off a 2.5 TD, building a 300 tdi is there any difference.

post-4517-1244115552_thumb.jpg

post-4517-1244115572_thumb.jpg

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Hello

I Thought I would add some additional wiring to my doors, through the bulkhead whilst it is easy to do.

So for Electric windows and central locking (if I were to add in the future) what wires should I add.

Another earth, another two power maybe?

For heated door handles?? :lol:

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Why not go the whole hog and fit electric window kits and central locking.

I have a full set from this company... http://www.sempal.co.uk/acatalog/SPAL_ELEC...RSION_KITS.html

My 110 will hopefully get the treatment this summer as its SORN at the moment.

I plan to put a mudstuff thingy above the dash with the switches in and a set for the rear passenger doors. I also have a disco central locking motor to work on the rear door locking.

I have the central locking adaptor to unlock the doors all at once !

If I remember your 90 then this would be a 5 min job for you... (have you still got the 90 BTW ?)

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The genuine Land Rover door looms aren't expensive and that way you get the right conectors for the job too...

Remember that the driver's side door needs more wires for the central locking than other doors (5 wires IIRC). I'm in the process of concerting a pair of doors to electric windows/central locking, The main expense are the electric window lifters and the new door cards, the genuine central locking bits aren't very expensive at all.

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I plan to put a mudstuff thingy above the dash with the switches in and a set for the rear passenger doors. I also have a disco central locking motor to work on the rear door locking.

You really need to replace the rear door lock mechanism with the central locking version, unlike the front doors there isn't a suitable lever to attach the solenoid to otherwise.

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You really need to replace the rear door lock mechanism with the central locking version, unlike the front doors there isn't a suitable lever to attach the solenoid to otherwise.

Not too difficult to mod the old type lock in fact.

I started off adding a lever which involved taking the lock apart, but in the end I made use of the hole originally used for the internal lock operating pin.

post-7124-1244403948_thumb.jpg

Works rather well too :i-m_so_happy:

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The genuine Land Rover door looms aren't expensive and that way you get the right conectors for the job too...

Remember that the driver's side door needs more wires for the central locking than other doors (5 wires IIRC). I'm in the process of concerting a pair of doors to electric windows/central locking, The main expense are the electric window lifters and the new door cards, the genuine central locking bits aren't very expensive at all.

I think the real looms might be a better option as I think the loom I have has the right connectors anyway.

Oh, and the 90 has gone (very sad about that....), but hey it funded my 2.8 tgv 110, well it gonna be a bit of a beast, WHEN, it is finished?

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