Aragorn Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Ok so today i finally got some spare time and decided to fit a new rotor dizzy cap and leads to the V8 in an attempt to improve its running and performance. Before i started however i decided to check the mechanical advance was working. I was told in another thread on there, that if i remove the dizzy cap and attempt to turn the rotor arm, if the mech advance is working it will turn a little then spring back. Mine turns, perhaps 5-10mm (at the tip) in a clockwise direction, but it doesnt spring back, it just stays there unless i twist it back myself. It also feels very stiff to turn in the first place. Is this indicative of a broken distributor, and if so, is it something i can fix myself, or do i need a new one? Cheers Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101sean Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Sounds like the base plate or weights are stiff through lack of lubrication, try dripping a little bit of light oil inside and working it back and forth. If that doesn't work, mark the dizzy and the block (so you can put it back in the same place) and strip it on the bench. Pretty straightforward to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 If it is stiff then the outer part of the rotor shaft is binding on the inner. Remove the rotor arm and drip some 3in1 down the middle of the shaft and work it back and forth until it frees up. Once it is free check again that it springs back if it does not then the springs have either broken, stretched or come off the balance weights so will need stripping. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Stripping it isn't hard, I'd do the job thoroughly and then you know it is all A1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 19, 2009 Author Share Posted July 19, 2009 ok, i'm happy to remove it from the motor and strip it down, any pointers or tips on what "stripping" involves or some kinda "howto"? I'll go get stuck in just now, but i suspect i'll end up with 400 springs and screws laying in the heap on the bench Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangeyRover Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 ok, i'm happy to remove it from the motor and strip it down, any pointers or tips on what "stripping" involves or some kinda "howto"?I'll go get stuck in just now, but i suspect i'll end up with 400 springs and screws laying in the heap on the bench Don't worry when it doesn't work just fit megajolt.... Coat.....door.....is that my cab? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 19, 2009 Author Share Posted July 19, 2009 if i had the money spare i'd be putting it on 'squirt, and it may well be in the pipeline for the future, for now however i just want to get it running! I've taken it off the car, removed the rotor arm and the plastic cover that sits under the rotor and now i'm looking at the reluctor and hall sensor. Not really sure what i'm supposed to do next though? The shaft under the rotor looks rather rusty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 19, 2009 Author Share Posted July 19, 2009 ok i've removed the circlip and lots of odd barrel screws, but before the plate holding the sensor etc will come out, the reluctor seems to need to come off the shaft. Does this just lift up? I tried prizing at it a little with a screwdriver and it doesnt want to shift at all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Look down the hole in the top of the shaft. You will most likely find a felt pad (oil reservoir) lift that out and there should be a screw underneath. When removed the rotor should lift off. Can't be sure on this but that is how most dizzys are built. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 19, 2009 Author Share Posted July 19, 2009 Theres no screw i can see. In the middle of where the rotor arm went is a shaft with a rubber seal round it. I appear to have bent the baseplate in trying to get this reluctor off, still not managed it though. Its moved, as the gap between the reluctor and the baseplate is now much larger than it was, i just dont know if i'm going about it the right way or if i'm risking wrecking something... Someone must have stripped one of these down before? So much for being streightforwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 There's a roll pin at the bototm of the shaft IIRC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 19, 2009 Author Share Posted July 19, 2009 Where abouts? I've no idea how this thing actually comes apart, or what parts it breaks down into, which makes it pretty difficult to see whats going on here... Does the reluctor come off the shaft that the rotor arm attaches to, or is it part of the main shaft that runs thru the dizzy? I can see a roll pin on the oil pump gear, and another on the dizzy drive, but i've no idea how these relate to the gubbins at the top of the dizzy. If the rotor arm needs to move seperate from the main drive (to work the advance etc) i cant see how removing the main shaft would let me take the reluctor off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Have a read through http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=18599&hl= starting at Post#16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Just had a look in my Haynes and the reluctor is held in place by a circlip a washer and an O ring. The words say "to assist removal of the reluctor insert a small screwdriver under it and prise it up the shaft" Think we can take it from that that it is a tight fit. Steve PS Seems the screw is used in the earlier dizzy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 19, 2009 Author Share Posted July 19, 2009 right, that suggests we have a problem. When ive levered the reluctor upwards, the entire shaft has moved up. The reluctor is still in the same position in relation to the shaft, cept the whole assembly has moved up somehow... The circlip is off, although the o ring is not, but it doesnt seem to want to move... I hope i've not damaged any more of the internals, but i'm at a loss as to how i'm supposed to get this thing to come off if i cant lever it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Have you removed the vacuum unit, the ignition amp and the amp mount casting? Haynes says all these need to be removed. With those off it may be possible to remove the whole shaft and base plate. With it on the bench you may then be able to remove the reluctor. You are on your own after that as Haynes helpfully says don't dismantle it any further. As the shaft has lifted the balance weights will now be loose so you have no option but to continue. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 19, 2009 Author Share Posted July 19, 2009 Put all the bits in a box and braught it home with me! Ye i removed all the bits you mention, as they're all in the way of the baseplate. To remove the entire shaft, do i remove the wobble drive and the oil pump drive from the shaft and pull it all out? Cant really see anything else holding it in? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 It should not be necessary to remove the whole shaft but if you can see no other way to strip it from the top then you may have too. You should then have the whole shaft on the bench and be able to strip it down. When you have it all in bits you will need to start by fitting the shaft back in and putting the drive gear back on. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 21, 2009 Author Share Posted July 21, 2009 Ok. I got very angry with a big steel rod and a hammer, and got the reluctor off. So its in many pieces now. Some pics: Advance mechanism against the stop: http://www.lr90.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_v..._serialNumber=2 If i twist the advance mech open then release it, it moves back to here and then stops, it does seem to be freeing up a little bit compared to how it was before: http://www.lr90.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_v..._serialNumber=2 And a pic of the baseplate, i'm hoping it will streighten up: http://www.lr90.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_v..._serialNumber=2 So where exactly should i be oiling? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Down the centre of the shaft where the rotor arm goes. Use something light like 3in1 and keep working the shaft back and forth until it springs back to the stops with ease. The balance weights and springs are looking in good order so all should be good once you have it moving freely. Question though, When the weights are closed back in against the stops do the springs still have any tension in them or are they flapping about on the pins. A good answer will be that at least one of them will still have a little tension. The springs are sometimes different strength and length. Normally the light spring deals with the low revs and allows a quicker advance in the lower revs then the tension takes up on the stronger spring which slows down the rate of advance in the higher revs. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 22, 2009 Author Share Posted July 22, 2009 Ye one spring goes floppy just after the point where it stops half open. I guess the two springs together can overcome the tightness, but the one spring cant. Once fully closed the shorter spring is still gripping its pegs, and the longer spring is sitting loose. I imagine that me spraying WD40 down/around the shaft when i was trying to get the reluctor off is whats made it free off a bit already. Any particular oil i should use? I've a big bottle of engine flushing oil that i tend to use when ever i need to oil something up, will this be fine? Any idea what the "13 1/2" stamped into the advance cam is for? Does that tell the maximum advance the mechanism can provide? If so it doesnt seem very high to me? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 I doubt it matters much what oil you use. I suggested 3in1 as it is very thin and penetrates. Don't know about the 13 1/2 stamping, would have thought it would be higher but when you get it freed of you can measure it. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 If you drive the pin out that holds the drive gear onto the shaft you can remove the entire shaft from the assembly - it will just pull/tap out. You will probably then find that there is a load of chod (technical term) gumming up the centre of the dizzy. Clean it out, give the shaft a polish, oil and re-assemble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 22, 2009 Author Share Posted July 22, 2009 I tried to get that roll pin to come out before, but wasnt very successful. Bar hitting it with an even larger hammer, is there some trick to getting it off? I dont unfortunately have a vice, which makes it a bit difficult to start beating lumps out of it, especially as the shaft/drive gear just spins when i hit it... Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Try squeezing it with a pair of mole grips or g-cramp, if you don't have a vice, might work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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