Rear door

[TheBeastie]

Having replaced broken glass I have been watching the rear door carefully. Every time I close the door the middle of the door bows in must a be a good 15mm and perhaps even 25mm.

Is this normal practice for a Defender rear door or is it that the steel on my door is now so very thin from all the rusting (from the inside mostly I think since there have been a fair few rust flakes) that it no longer really has the strength to do the job. I have never "looked" whilst closing the door before so do not know what is "normal" and if mine has gone past that sort of critical phase.

If the former I will grin and bear (replacing glass as needed) but if the latter then I had better start saving for a new rear door.

Thanks for any pointers

Malcy

[errol209]

Having replaced broken glass I have been watching the rear door carefully. Every time I close the door the middle of the door bows in must a be a good 15mm and perhaps even 25mm.

It shouldn't do that! The steel frame has probably rusted and sheared around the lock and just under the middle hinge and will be far worse (as in more breaks) if you have door-mounted spare wheel. You can weld repair, but unless you are very very lucky you'll need a new door skin afterwards andthe result won't last as long as a new door anyway. I'd say replace it, Waxoyl the new one to death and hope!

[TheBeastie]

That is kind of what I was thinking; just wanted some corroboration that I am not being paranoid.

A slightly saving grace is that I put on one of the supported wheel carriers so the weight is held by the carrier rather than the door but strongly suspect it is just a matter of time (and possibly not a lot at that either!).

Better start saving the pennies up!!

[Retroanaconda]

On my rear door the frame is cracked in it's entirety from top to bottom. The skin is all that's holding it together

Eventually I will get a new rear door and a carrier to take the weight of the spare.

[101sean]

When I bought my 00 110CSW three years ago the back door was split from top to bottom from the weight of the spare wheel and had allowed water through the window sealant. Door frame was totally shot and wiper motor full of water! Muppet of a previous owner had bothered with warranty issues (was reflected in price)

[errol209]

When I bought my 00 110CSW three years ago the back door was split from top to bottom from the weight of the spare wheel and had allowed water through the window sealant. Door frame was totally shot and wiper motor full of water! Muppet of a previous owner had bothered with warranty issues (was reflected in price)

Yes, the middle lateral bar breaks at the wiper motor hole, allowing the water in. BTW, a Range Rover rear wiper motor isn't a bad replacement, just add three thickish washers on the inside to stop the arm fouling the spare wheel. The Rangie one is only £35 new as well.

My door before I got started:

Note that every weld is cracked!

[Prith]

Yes, the middle lateral bar breaks at the wiper motor hole, allowing the water in. BTW, a Range Rover rear wiper motor isn't a bad replacement, just add three thickish washers on the inside to stop the arm fouling the spare wheel. The Rangie one is only £35 new as well.

My door before I got started:

Note that every weld is cracked!

Good Lord. Dreading to remove my rear door trim to have a look at it. Hope it ain't so bad as yours.

[TheBeastie]

Good Lord. Dreading to remove my rear door trim to have a look at it. Hope it ain't so bad as yours.

Gosh, I was thinking how that looked much better than mine

Guess the old girl deserves a new back door !!!

I guess also useful to replace hinges, lock and everything??? Quick check of door prices showed huge range from about £120 up to around £300 or so mostly for what appeared to be very similar thing. My back door is exactly like errol209's (but tattier) so I am just looking for straight (pun intended)replacement.

Thanks for the tip re: Rangie wiper. I currently don't have one but was thinking of adding so this is a very timely tip.

[errol209]

I guess also useful to replace hinges, lock and everything??? Quick check of door prices showed huge range from about £120 up to around £300 or so mostly for what appeared to be very similar thing. My back door is exactly like errol209's (but tattier) so I am just looking for straight (pun intended)replacement.

Lock and grab handle not worth changing, but the brass "cheese" that screws to the door frame is probably worn and stepped, so worth getting a new one.

Yes, your hinges are also probably shot, the newer model ones are better made, I hear, but a bit pricey. Get yourself some (M8) stainless bolts, as the bottom hinge ones are actually in the rear wheel arch (yuck) and probably one rusty mass.

The glass and retainers will transfer with care. (don't forget to paint the door first - don't ask, just don't ask)

[q-rover]

The 'new' version, I think came in 2004 and is made from pressed galvanised steel sheet.

So should be better at resisting rust.

[101sean]

I fitted a cheap £90 generic door, fits series or Defender so wasn't perfect and needed a small amount of bodging

Strengthened it internally and fitted chequerplate and a swingaway carrier so it's solid now. Used a Disco wiper motor, swapped brackets and added washers, works fine.

[TheBeastie]

Thanks guys. Been building a parts list and would appreciate comment. Still puzzled by wide variation in price on part numbers. From what I can see I can probably re-use the door check mechanism from the old door, and also the new glass (assuming it does not break first ). Then I would need

1 off STC1424 (plain panel but need to check attachment of the chassis supported wheel carrier)

1 off 333034 (the aluminimum glass retainers are all pretty shot)

2 off 333033

1 off 332032

2 off 333035

30 off AB606031L (screws)

1 off STC2871 (handle - but perhaps not needed)

1 off 333036 (upper hinge)

2 off 346341 (middle and lower hinge)

3 off 257450 (capped nut)

6 off SE108501 (screw - but ? gor S/S or will this give corrosion problems?)

6 off MRC1980 (washer)

6 off FN108041L (nut)

6 off SE108251 (screw)

6 off WC108051L (plain washer - but ? use bog standard Screwfix galv washer)

6 off WL108001L (spring washer)

4 off FN108041L (nut)

1 off MTC1042 (nut plate)

The cost of the exercise certainly starts to build!!

Have I missed anything do you think? The reason I ask is that unless I can take off the old door and fit the new one I will be very insecure!!

Point about waxoyl and painting well noted - thanks.

Thanks and best wishes

Malcolm

[GL88]

Bear in mind that the 'new' type of door (rounded bottom corners and modern rubber seal type of glass mounting) is incompatible with various parts from the 'old' type. I couldn't tell you exactly which parts are different but they include the wiper motor, glass, sealing strip, spare wheel carrier, interior trim and lock.

When the cracks became too bad in my rear door I welded bracing channel over the relevant bits of the frame and put a swing away carrier on. No problems for the last nine months.