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self leveling ball joint..


uksniper1

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hi,my self leveling ball joint on my 1990 classic has given up the ghost,its knocking even when i run over anything bigger than a peanut!..a guy i was talking to says you can take the whole thing off,including the big shock unit itself,,i was wondering if any one else has removed theres? as aparently you get better articulation without it.but im wary of removing it as it would be just the trailing arms holding the axle then,,any replies be great,,thanks,,wayne.. ;)

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There is enough travel in the self leveling unit (SLU) to allow +2" dampers to fully extend on articulation, but only just with standard springs.

these units do wear out so removing it probably won't have any ill effects though fitting discovery rear springs will probaly help as they never had a SLU and just had stiff springs instead.

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ok cheers for that guys,,ive got heavy duty springs on her and 4 inches of lift too,so im hoping she wont sag too bad,,its just the ball joint where it joins the axle thats worn out,,but i may as well take the whole thing off then,,will it be ok just being held on by the trailing arms then?...thanks again.. ;)

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Hang on a sec are we talking at cross purposes here.

You can remove the load levelling unit.

But I'm pretty sure you can't remove the A frame with the ball joint at the point. That is what stops the axle moving side to side.

I think this is what the OP is asking.

Steve

Edit...Landyman beat me to it.

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The A-frame and its ball joint which goes to the rear axle must remain connected. The ball joint is not expensive, but can be a complete pig to remove from the carrier which you can see at the top of Landymanlukes pics.

It has two bolts through it into the carrier - viewed from below - but don't think that after disconnecting it from the axle it is a simple matter of undoing the bolts & tapping it out :rofl:

Best remove it and the carrier from the axle & A-frame & take it to a garage with the new ball joint & get them to press the old one out & the new one in. (garages have been known to break presses doing these!) It must go in square AND with the bolt holes lined up as there is no way you can just twist it a bit to get them to line up.

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hi,,thanks for all the replies,ill try an get a whole set up off another rangie,and save the hassle of trying to get the old ball joint out. ;) ..once again thank you very much for the replies,its helped loads..cheers... ;)

Don't bother - the ball joint on that will be well past it's best too. Do the job properly and it will probably last the rest of the lifetime of the vehicle. As said, the ball joint isn't expensive.

Note that while you will find people who tell you you can do it yourself with basic hand tools, I have and if I ever have to do another I'm paying someone with a proper press to do it for me... Took all day and really made the neighbours happy (lots and lots of hammering...).

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The self levelling device - boge strut - does not come with the A-frame to axle ball joint.

Are you sure you are talking about the right item being faulty? Go back to Landyman's pics. If its the balljoint at the top of the pic that's faulty you are still going to need to deal with it.

Its the self-levelling device that can be removed.

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The self levelling device - boge strut - does not come with the A-frame to axle ball joint.

Are you sure you are talking about the right item being faulty? Go back to Landyman's pics. If its the balljoint at the top of the pic that's faulty you are still going to need to deal with it.

Its the self-levelling device that can be removed.

hi,yep its the a frame ball joint thats at fault,you can put a screwdriver under it and lift it up n down and it makes the same metalic knock that i hear when going over bumps in the road.. ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

hi again,ok my new ball joint should be here next 2 days or so,paid 10 pound for a brand new one,ok im gonna try an remove the old one and refit the new one myself,i have a compressor and an air chisle/puncher too,,was thinking if i took the carrier off then used the air puncher i could get the old one out,instead of using hammers e.t.c,and lots of swearing like as been said,,ahha,so refiting the new joint will have to be greased and lined up with the 2 bolt holes yes?..then i was thinking of using the air punch the push it back in..sound good to you guys??..thanks...wayne.

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Please re-read my post about taking it to a garage with a press. I wasn't joking. No way I would even bother trying to do another one myself.

Bashing it out may work. Bashing the new one in will probably break it. The bolt holes must line up perfectly throughout the install, it must go in dead square and seat fully home. Bashing the lugs usually bends them.

Check other forums if you think we are being over dramatic.

And if you can't get both the bolts in it's an MOT fail so you get to do it all over again. See http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=47529

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