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RV8 Dry Sump plumbing etc


dedoo

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I recently bought a dry sump system, fabricated by John Eales, on ebay for a good price and would like to fit it to my engine. I added pictures, which I hope will show, so you guy's can see what I bought.

The problem I have is that I have no clue about how and where to add the oil feed. As you can see on the picture is that some of the oil passages (I assume) are blocked off with some kind of wax. The oil pump gears are removed and is blocked off with an aluminum plate. So I'm not able to add the oil feed line from the pump to that area.

Where and how should I fit the oil feed line?

Excuse me for my ignorance and I hope you guy's can help me further

post-13463-125457418146_thumb.jpg

post-13463-125457421023_thumb.jpg

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Typing it all here could take a while!!!

Give me call on 01938.850382 / 07969.458958 and I can tell you through it, it is a job I have done the plumbing for several times on rally / track cars.

I can happily quote you for all the bits you will need extra to what is in the pics including a custom oiltank right down to new copper washers for the fittings but don't feel compelled toi buy just cause you are phoning I am more than happy to help out without the promise of a sale..... :rolleyes:

David

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Typing it all here could take a while!!!

Give me call on 01938.850382 / 07969.458958 and I can tell you through it, it is a job I have done the plumbing for several times on rally / track cars.

I can happily quote you for all the bits you will need extra to what is in the pics including a custom oiltank right down to new copper washers for the fittings but don't feel compelled toi buy just cause you are phoning I am more than happy to help out without the promise of a sale..... :rolleyes:

David

this should have been sent by a PM.

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this should have been sent by a PM.

Why? The phone numbers are in the public domain anyway as they are my work not personal ones and the offer of help might be of use to other forum members who view the topic without posting to it directly with a question.....

David

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I recently bought a dry sump system, fabricated by John Eales, on ebay for a good price and would like to fit it to my engine. I added pictures, which I hope will show, so you guy's can see what I bought.

The problem I have is that I have no clue about how and where to add the oil feed. As you can see on the picture is that some of the oil passages (I assume) are blocked off with some kind of wax. The oil pump gears are removed and is blocked off with an aluminum plate. So I'm not able to add the oil feed line from the pump to that area.

Where and how should I fit the oil feed line?

Excuse me for my ignorance and I hope you guy's can help me further

Very briefly:

The pump scavenges the oil from the 2 ports on the sump and sends it off to a big tank.

The 3rd element of the pump sucks the oil from the tank and squirts it into the middle of the hole where the oil filter used to screw on.

A remote filter, a tank and a filter inlet fitting will sort out the whole kit along with some hoses of course...

Hope that helps a bit otherwise just give me a call

David

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Why? The phone numbers are in the public domain anyway as they are my work not personal ones and the offer of help might be of use to other forum members who view the topic without posting to it directly with a question.....

David

OK,didn't know they were on general public release.

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Anyone got HP/Torque gain figures for the setup? Does this usually have an accumulator as well to make sure oil is immediately pressurized into the turbo etc?

An adult will confirm, but in my experience you suffer a very small decrease in power due to fitting a dry sump system - mainly due to the increased drag of the pump setup on the engine (moving much more oil around than the standard one). The trade off being you get greater, more reliable, cooler lubrication especially when working at angles and with big G forces. Another advantage in a race car is the reduced engine height.

A mate of mine had this setup in a Rover V8 powered Mk2 Escort and it worked very well while also allowing him to tuck the engine down lower to fit a stealthy Holley carb under the bonnet.

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My understanding was that is also means your crank is not splashing through oil on every rotation which robs power... also why high HP engines have the crank weights "knife edged". My background is in superbikes so I know some of the concepts, but the tuning specifics for high HP and high-torque do change for sure.

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