sgnas Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 Just took a quick visit to town before the kids tea and nearly got stranded! Pulled away at a roundabout. An almighty bang followed by lots of rotating graunching noises. Knew I had lost drive one end and had to get in in diffllock to move it. Would it go? No chance, I was getting out ot push it when it just went on it's own. Drove it off the roundabout, then stopped to look underneath to check I was not dragging something (like a propshaft). Pulled off sharpish to see which end still had drive (the front), got home with no further noise. It is definately not the t'box output as the rear prop turns in gear without he car moving, but LOTS of bad noise. So what is it and how to tell. It's dark, the weather is £$%^& and my workshop is full of something big and imovable, so practical investigation is out of the question. I've been in a vehicle with a busted halfshaft before and it did not make this noise. On the other hand if it were the diff (110, so a Salisbury) I would have expected some noise on the drive home when the axle was "freewheeling". Six of one half a dozen of the other, I cannot work it out (whilst sat at the computer). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 shouldnt bea diff, sailsburys are usually much tougher than the standard rover axles, i would suspect a halfshaft. to check it would only take 10 mins at the most, just unbolt the hubcaps and pull the halfshafts out, if half of one is missing, its the halfshaft. if theyre both fine then its the diff. i know you havent got a workshop but its the only way i can think of and its only about 10 bolts to check both halfshafts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 Just pop the rubber hub caps and with the difflock disengaged, handbrake off and the vehicle chocked have a look with the engine running and in gear, my guess is the splines in one of the hub drive flanges has failed, if so you will soon spot it turning in the stationary flange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgnas Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 , my guess is the splines in one of the hub drive flanges has failed, Good call!! I now feel a pr4t for two reasons. 1. I should have worked that out myself. 2. When I was stuck on the roundabout all I had to do was pull on the handbrake and I would have been off! Still to assess if there is any damage to the shaft splines of just the drive member. I would say it went without warning, but it could explain the occasional judder we got on pull away that I thought was the clutch. I would love to put it in the workshop, but the caravan is in there. Cannot get that out 'till I've felled a few more trees around it's storage space. Need the Landrover to get it out. The 110 is front wheel drive only. The 90 is tied to the fence to stop that blowing away as we lost a few fenceposts today! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 I now feel a pr4t for two reasons. 2. When I was stuck on the roundabout all I had to do was pull on the handbrake and I would have been off! That's quite a bad idea, as you would double the gear ratio (because of the centre diff). Much better idea would be to use the lever LR provided for just such an eventuality - diff lock - leaving the ratios alone (which you did). The pause is the diff lock gear waiting to drop into engagement. (edited after re-reading OP, sorry) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgnas Posted November 15, 2009 Author Share Posted November 15, 2009 Fence post temporarily fixed. Trees down, oh the joy of a newly sharpened chain Caravan moved. 110 in workshop. Long shaft totally worn out on the outboard splines Short shaft and both menmbers about half gone I don't understand it, My 90 is twice the age and twice the mileage and they are fine. The hubs are very dry on the 110 (90 soaked in grease and EP90)with a lot of debris and no gasket on the member to hub interface. So I think I need to strip down the hub to check the bearings, there is no play but they rumble a bit. Probably a job for tomorrow. I'm shattered and on kiddy duty 'till they go to bed. Top Gear starts a new series tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 The hubs are very dry on the 110 (90 soaked in grease and EP90)with a lot of debris and no gasket on the member to hub interface. So I think I need to strip down the hub to check the bearings, there is no play but they rumble a bit. fit gaskets to the 90's hubs as well, a metal to metal joint isn't a good idea. when you fit the new parts to the 110 put some wheel bearing grease or EP90 in the plastic hub cal before refitting, it'll help the splines live longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgnas Posted November 15, 2009 Author Share Posted November 15, 2009 I think someones had the rear of the 110 to bits before and not refitted gaskets. This has let water in. As the axle seals are holding back the EP90, this has left the splines operating in a really crappy environment and increased the wear rate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 you can take the stub axles off & remove the seal, that will allow EP90 from the diff to get into the wheel bearings 7 spline areas & help keep them well lubricated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 you can take the stub axles off & remove the seal, that will allow EP90 from the diff to get into the wheel bearings & spline areas & help keep them well lubricated. Its just a little OT, but is this an accepted trick? I ask because I have confusion over my FWH, as the advice is to lock them occasionally to get the oil to flow, but when i stripped my Series front axle i realised there is a seal in the back of the stub shaft around the halfshaft, and in theory this will prevent oil getting to the wheel bearings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 Ed the seal in the rear stub axles came in on 110/90 at IIRC 300Tdi and as a result it does cause spline wear on the 110 models and removing the seal only makes it behave like our series axles, i.e. the hubs run with the bearings sloshing in EP90. As to removing the seal from a front casing to let diff oil into the swivel housing??? Anybody else?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 the stub axle seal is meant to keep the diff oil out of the bearings,but letting some of the oil get to the bearings/splines won't do any harm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.