landroversforever Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 And you comment on that and not the new cooker? I think you forget sometimes who sometimes feeds you!! OOPS! I thought I had commented, but obviously only just sneaked a look at work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 So getting there.... again.... The new hot water system arrived today, a simple swap and bang it was in and works, I have had to order a new trigger head and am awaiting that to arrive but we have hot water again which is good. a £90 mistake I won't be doing again. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirocco Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 Jason, been meaning to ask. how high is your spare wheel off the hitch? I have to remove mine at the moment to allow it to open up and will soon be chopping the swing away and welding it higher. I was just wondering how high to make it. I was thinking 6" should do it. Any thoughts? G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 Gareth, I will have to measure and let you know, clearly the higher it is the more nose weight it will add so there is a balance (no pun intended) to be struck. I should have made it 2" higher than it is as the jockey wheel handle just catches it so I need to alter the handle as I don't want to move the spare!! Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 Moving the wheel up doesn't change its moment about the trailer axle so it will have little effect on the noseweight moving it up/down. Unless it was up reallllllllly high and the trailer was very nose-down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 Moving the wheel up doesn't change its moment about the trailer axle so it will have little effect on the noseweight moving it up/down. Unless it was up reallllllllly high and the trailer was very nose-down. Sorry Ross, I don't agree with you there, as you move the wheel away from the chassis you move it from the centre of gravity and the fulcrum of the trailer (the axle) moving the wheel 4 inches higher will increase the distance between the weight and the axle. (as Pythagoras taught us about hippos and squares) as the weight is sitting the hitch side of the fulcrum it will add weight to the nose weight of the trailer. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 Yes it moves it further away from the axle (a very small amount) but the noseweight is unaffected as the point the weight is acting on along the line axle-hitch has not moved. Would be interesting to try it in practice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Gareth, Photo of the wheel & hitch, is this what you needed? if you look on the left you can see the marks from the jockey wheel where it is very close to the wheel!! I will sort this out by cutting the handle off and either welding it further down or just putting a new one on. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirocco Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Ar, I was wondering what all the confusion was about regarding weights, fulcrums and axis. No, I meant the spare on the back door of the 90 it sits too low so im going to chop the swing away about and move it up. I have yet to get around to attaching the spare to the trailer G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Jason. Do you remove the jocky wheel for travelling ? If the handle's in the way. Why not remove it, Weld a nut in place of the handle and use a ratchet to raise and lower the jocky wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Sorry Ross, I don't agree with you there, as you move the wheel away from the chassis you move it from the centre of gravity and the fulcrum of the trailer (the axle) moving the wheel 4 inches higher will increase the distance between the weight and the axle. (as Pythagoras taught us about hippos and squares) as the weight is sitting the hitch side of the fulcrum it will add weight to the nose weight of the trailer. Jason. Thought of a different analogy Jason, should make it a bit clearer.... Take a diving board and push down on the end of it with your hand enough to move the end a nominal amount, say 4". Now push the end down 4" again, but using a vertical bit of 4x2" wood a meter long. Ignoring the added weight of the wood (or assume it's weightless), it is no easier to push the end down with your force being a meter higher. If the idea of your trailer was to be constantly rotating around the axle centreline (spinning round and round) then moving the weight up would an effect. But it is a static moment not dynamic one so it makes no difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Jason. Do you remove the jocky wheel for travelling ? If the handle's in the way. Why not remove it, Weld a nut in place of the handle and use a ratchet to raise and lower the jocky wheel. Mike, Mine is a MK3 chassis so the jockey wheel folds up (swings away) when not in use, it's only just too long so a bit of cutting and welding and it will be sorted, I know what I need to do it's just getting around to doing it!!! I need to get the welder out tomorrow so will sort it then. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Ar, I was wondering what all the confusion was about regarding weights, fulcrums and axis. No, I meant the spare on the back door of the 90 it sits too low so im going to chop the swing away about and move it up. I have yet to get around to attaching the spare to the trailer G After all that........ My 110 is an MY> so has the single back door, I just use the standard wheel carrier and don't have a problem with clearance, I was worried about it at first especially off road but haven't had any issues. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirocco Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 After all that........ My 110 is an MY> so has the single back door, I just use the standard wheel carrier and don't have a problem with clearance, I was worried about it at first especially off road but haven't had any issues. Jason. I haven't had the standard carrier on for a long time, it also depends on what size rubber your using. so whats the clearance? 3-4"? 4-5"? just give me a figure G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Gareth, Photos of hitch and hight attached hope this is what you want? I use standard 235/85/16. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Cooker fitted and working today, I need another connector for the drain so a trip to the caravan shop in the morning, I decided to leave the bit under the sink open and not box it in as it will be a useful space to stick stuff. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirocco Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Gareth, Photos of hitch and hight attached hope this is what you want? I use standard 235/85/16. Jason. 6" perfect. Like the 2" receiver. where did you get that? My hitch is direct to the X member so probably as close as yours would be if it was mounted the same. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 6" perfect. Like the 2" receiver. where did you get that? My hitch is direct to the X member so probably as close as yours would be if it was mounted the same. G Gareth, Can't remember where the receiver hitch came from think it was Terrafirma , I was fed up with getting stuck when the original tow bar would ground out, the receiver hitch improved the departure angle by about 22 degrees. I didn't want to extend the trailer chassis so using a longer Pintle a few extra few inches makes a big difference and give me the clearance to open the door etc, so works really well. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Jason. Do you remove the jocky wheel for travelling ? If the handle's in the way. Why not remove it, Weld a nut in place of the handle and use a ratchet to raise and lower the jocky wheel. Mike, I have added a photo of the jockey wheel problem, which should be resolved tomorrow, excuse the poor quality of the photo but you can see where the red has rubbed off on the wheel its probably 5mm to long but a cut and shut job will sort it. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 I've seen a jocky wheel come off a trailer. Towed by a Toyota, the bump he hit was only like a sleeping policeman. It was the excessive speed that was wrong. Sheared both bolts on the bracket holding the jocky wheel to the chassis. Trailer was an Alu-Cab one. Having seen that made my mind up that I wouldn't fit my jocky wheel any way but horizontal for travelling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirocco Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Gareth, Can't remember where the receiver hitch came from think it was Terrafirma , I was fed up with getting stuck when the original tow bar would ground out, the receiver hitch improved the departure angle by about 22 degrees. I didn't want to extend the trailer chassis so using a longer Pintle a few extra few inches makes a big difference and give me the clearance to open the door etc, so works really well. Jason. yer I found it after I posted up. cheers. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 I've seen a jocky wheel come off a trailer. Towed by a Toyota, the bump he hit was only like a sleeping policeman. It was the excessive speed that was wrong. Sheared both bolts on the bracket holding the jocky wheel to the chassis. Trailer was an Alu-Cab one. Having seen that made my mind up that I wouldn't fit my jocky wheel any way but horizontal for travelling. I think that must have happened many times in the MOD hence the MK3 modification of the swing up jockey wheel, which is great and locks in the upwards position so is stowed away safely. Anyhow I have now modified the jockey wheel I found that I didn't need to weld it just cut it shorter and re drill the handle. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 OK, so took the trailer away last week the family also came but you can't win them all!! The changes to the water system worked very well and the replacement water heater also worked well so finally got that monkey off my back!!! I may add one change but more of that when I formulate the plan and see if I can get things to work. I started some work on the electrical system before I went away but am still not happy with it all, I didn't install battery cut off's and never did a wiring diagram so not always sure how everything is routed. I have brought a battery cut off/change over unit that allows me to separate the batteries to stop them eating each other during the winter whilst also being able to separate them if I get issues I also want a better battery gauge so that I can monitor the power usage more closely, I came across these NASA units and think that they are the way to go, so have now ordered one. I am not happy with the Microwave, it does not seem to work as well as it did, although I think this may be a battery issue, the unit is a 12v/240v unit and it seems silly that I am trying to use it on 12v when hooked up to site power so am going to add a 240v outlet near the microwave to allow it to run on 240v when on site power. I also need to look at the way the fridge is wired as I don't think that it is getting the best current draw so again my look at this as part of the rewire!!! So plumbing sorted electrics to sort... The new hob worked well but not as well as it should have done, it was very windy and we struggled a couple of times with the rings going out, whilst the hob has flame out protection that didn't help heat our lunch!! I therefore need to look at the cooker and how I can add some wind protection, it may just be as simple as adding lip to the front of the slide out unit to protect it from the wind or something a bit fancier again it will be a work in progress, I am not happy with how the slider works at the moment it seems to have become tighter since the addition of the new unit and I need to look at where it is rubbing and how I can improve this but only a little bit of modification is required. All in all a good week, I am happy with the changes so far but a few more required before it's ready for the big summer trips. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 Fridge wiring is simple for the Engel. Which do you have ? I fitted the Engel voltmeter/ low current cut out to my Defender. Works a treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 Fridge wiring is simple for the Engel. Which do you have ? I fitted the Engel voltmeter/ low current cut out to my Defender. Works a treat. In the trailer I have a National Luna the fridge has a fuse on the control panel and a permanently connected lead to a DIN socket, it's from the DIN socket that I need to sort out. The DIN socket is currently wired to a main 'buzz bar' type arrangement that connects to the battery bank but I have noticed when it is on 240V 'site power' that the fridge start up current (around 12 amps) struggles to be met which is strange and throws up a fault light on the fridge. It worked without a problem last year so may just be something loose, but the Waeco power charger should be producing 20 amps when connected so more than enough for the fridge to cycle. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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