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Does my V8 need a rebuild?


Ben Jordan

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Will it be okay to replace this gasket with a composite one, as the other is probably tin? What are the marks on a head gasket that has gone? Once the thread is out of the head, i think im going to put it all back together with genuine parts and then decide what's going to happen to it. Now i need to start a shopping list of the parts i need from Land rover.

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Will it be okay to replace this gasket with a composite one, as the other is probably tin?

I had that on my old engine for a while and it didn't have any noticeable effect. Can't say about long term, as mine died shortly afterwards when the timing gear failed :( I was advised it was okay, but by a garage I don't actually trust very much - take that as you will.

What are the marks on a head gasket that has gone?

Brown marks where it's been blowing (on mine, at least).

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So i am going to need,

1 x Exhaust manifold to down pipe gasket

4 x Exhaust manifold to head gasket

1 x Head gasket

1 x valley gasket

8 x Rubber seals for top of injectors (workshop manual states these are to be replaced)

1 x Rocker cover gasket

Can anybody think of anything i have missed off the list that i should replace when putting it back together?

Is there a gasket to go between the top and the bottom of the intet plenum?

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So i am going to need,

1 x Exhaust manifold to down pipe gasket

4 x Exhaust manifold to head gasket

1 x Head gasket

1 x valley gasket

8 x Rubber seals for top of injectors (workshop manual states these are to be replaced)

1 x Rocker cover gasket

If you've got that much of it apart, might as well take the other head off and replace the gasket on that one too? Unless you know it's already been done, it's probably on borrowed time at that mileage, and you'll kick yourself if you have to take it all to bits again in a couple of months.

Can anybody think of anything i have missed off the list that i should replace when putting it back together?

New head bolts. I didn't, and boy did I regret it :( Snapped one off in the block putting them back in.

Is there a gasket to go between the top and the bottom of the intet plenum?

If I recall correctly, it's just sealant?

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The gasket looks to be a fairly recent replacement with no apparent blowing into the valley. The gasket cement was probably used as a ‘just to be sure’ seal. For tin gaskets to seal properly the block and head faces have to be perfect. To check your heads you could run a straight edge across them and prod with a 1 or 2 thou feeler at intervals ………. But make sure your straight edge is PERFECTLY straight.

Are you going to replace the cam & lifters ?.

If not then lift the other head and replace the head gaskets with composites ………… these reduce the compression by 0.6:1 ………… but you will definitely not notice ….. if anything it will improve the tickover and provide a smoother low end throttle response.

Composites will be an aftermarket item they were never OEM for the 3.5 & 3.9 …… The 4.6 engines had a smaller combustion chamber in the head to allow for the extra thickness of the gasket (28cc heads).

Remember to torque down the inner and centre rows to the specifications. Just fit the outer row to fill the holes and only torque down to 20ft/lb at the most. This will avoid the age old problem of the heads ‘pulling’ to one side and causing the blowing into the valley. This causes high contamination of the oil and a large build up of carbon (carp) in the upper block.

Also fit a composite valley gasket together with the improved rubber end seals. Another improvement is to fit the rubber rocker cover gaskets ……… these can be a bas***d ……. best to use bostick clear and glue them to the rocker cover first.

Before fitting the heads carefully examine all the threads …… especially those that the exhaust headers bolt to ………… damage here can be difficult to repair without lifting the heads again. I usually helicoil all mine as it stops the old problem of the bolts working loose (mainly due to the differing expansion rates of Ali & steel) …… but this is not really necessary …….. its just that I have been bitten one or twice :angry:

Remember to clean out the bolt holes in the block …….. and lightly oil the bolts before fitting.

Other bits to replace are the hoses at the rear of the water pump and those at the back of the engine that feed the heater matrix. ;)

Ian

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Are you going to replace the cam & lifters ?.

No i think it is all going to go back together as it is. Then sold or driven until i decide what car i want next. Im only doing about 5 miles a week in my own cars and the Rangie is my second car so it should last. Where is the best place to get the composite gaskets?

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Not much wrong there! You know when it is knackered as there are big black "cornflakes" in there. Yours is one of the cleanest I have seen.

Chris

Its Ok

Clean Clean

I did a head gasket change on a 160,000 mile 4.2 v8 that a stone had split the rad.

The valley was golden in colour otherwise you could eat your dinner off it.

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Ben,

Real Steel are fine ……………most of my V8 bits come from them …….. good service………..and good quality parts…………….. I have generally found RPI to be less than helpful :rolleyes:

01895 440505

Head Gasket AZ900

Valley Gasket CX7590

Valley Seals CX2684 (2 Required)

Rocker cover Gasket AZ656

Ian

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Ben,

Real Steel are fine ……………most of my V8 bits come from them …….. good service………..and good quality parts…………….. I have generally found RPI to be less than helpful :rolleyes:

01895 440505

Head Gasket AZ900

Valley Gasket CX7590

Valley Seals CX2684 (2 Required)

Rocker cover Gasket AZ656

Ian

Do they have a website? Are those Real steel's part numbers? Is that a part number for a composite head gasket? As i think im going to put a tin one back on as i just want to get it on the road and not bother getting the other head off.

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Ben,

Yes, those are Real Steel stock numbers ………….

If you are replacing with a tin gasket, then checking / skimming the head for flatness becomes more of an issue ;) ………… the composite has the ability to take out very minor variations as it is 46 thou compressed ………. my earlier figure of 40 thou is for the 3.5……….. the tin gasket is less forgiving (it is 18 thou compressed). A warp of even 2 or 3 thou will cause a tin to blow in a very short time frame (probably less than 5K miles)

Real Steel tin gasket part number : CX7890

The difference in price between tin & composite is very small (about £2 in favour of the tin).

I don’t think Real Steel have a website ……..

Ian

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Ben,

I wouldn't :) but then I usually err on the side of caution.

They are different thicknesses therefore they will have some impact on the compression. If you don't shim the rockers, they will also have a slight impact on the amount the rockers move.

You have done high mileage and are not replacing the cam although the bottom of the engine looks like it should be good and is worthy of the replacement, you have also said you are keen to get it back together so there is nothing to physically stop you.

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They are only up the road but i have been sold some really c##p quality stuff by them, especially gaskets.

I think all the independents generally sell the same stuff - mostly Britparts, which I've found to be of rather variable quality. Some sell only genuine, but they tend to be the expensive places like JE Engineering. I guess you get what you pay for, and most of us are already struggling to keep up with the parts bills...

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