reggie Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 No, it is more that it is only worthwhile when castor is out by more than 2-3 degrees. Given Land Rover tolerances it could be out this much from the factory and lifting it could put it either on-spec or out by 6 degrees depending on how it is out and which way. You really only know by measuring. Whats the best way of measuring to find out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 would the best bet be to lift if and then drive it. See if it is better or worse? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Correcting at the axle housing or swivel ball is the only proper way to START fixing things with a lift, as you lift more and more you will run into other issues though but with 2-3" just doing the swivels should solve the issue. Only then fit a DC if you get vibration. Corrected arms are never the correct solution. thats interesting, because lowering the axle/raising the vehicle will effectively rotate the axle will it not? Theyby rotating the spring mounts out of alignment with those on the chassis? plays hell with leafers, cant imagine it would be good for coilers? Is this not a very good reason to fit corrected arms? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKMobile Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 My 2p's worth!! They recommend 3 degree castor correction for lift less than 4 inches & 6 degree for anything over 4 inches. After lifting mine by 2 inches i got a judder when acceleration turned out to be the rear prop on the 90 didn't like the angle. had no prblem when doing the Disco i had before! The vibration seems to be a problem on the 90once lifted as there's a few of use in the club i belong to that have had the same trouble. Didn't have the funds for double cardan so contacted a company called " Driveline" after they were recommended by someone that used them. They were very helpfull & were cheaper than quite a few others i tried. I gave them the measurement's from flange to flange both front & rear, told him i wanted wide angle & he done the maths & made them the following day. I recieved them the day after by courier @ 9am in the morning! Superb!! Would definatly recommend them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 thats interesting, because lowering the axle/raising the vehicle will effectively rotate the axle will it not? Theyby rotating the spring mounts out of alignment with those on the chassis? plays hell with leafers, cant imagine it would be good for coilers? Is this not a very good reason to fit corrected arms? No, the correct way to fix this (and with a 2" lift it is not worth changing) is to cut off the mounts and re-weld them on in the correct position. Pushing your pinion down relative to your transfer case output is ALWAYS going to be a source of headache. You want those two output/input flanges to be as close to parallel as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
widget Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 No, the correct way to fix this (and with a 2" lift it is not worth changing) is to cut off the mounts and re-weld them on in the correct position. Pushing your pinion down relative to your transfer case output is ALWAYS going to be a source of headache. You want those two output/input flanges to be as close to parallel as possible. In that case would it make sense to cut the axle tube either side of the diff, rotate the diff upwards to maintain the angle and re-weld? Has anyone bothered? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 In that case would it make sense to cut the axle tube either side of the diff, rotate the diff upwards to maintain the angle and re-weld? Has anyone bothered? If you are running a front Salisbury the tubes are basically just press fitted so this becomes a viable option. I was told by someone that doing the same to Rover axles was problematic though I think I recently saw someone clocking D2 knuckles (I think I was Tomcat Motorsport) but really when you compare the effort required to do that and the effort to remove and re-weld hangers, the 2nd is a whole lot easier and much more likely to result in something strong. You really only need to consider this if you are really lifting, like 5"+ most people will use a combination of swivel indexing and castor arms at this point to avoid welding, despite it being the right way to do it, the other issue is that as you get into really big lifts the angle at which the u-joints need to operate to remain parallel increases dramatically, I am not sure at which point a DC becomes mandatory but it is there somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Road Toad Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 One thing you need to be careful of when lifting to extremes is the diff nose angle, the more the lift the steeper the angle the more difficult it is to get oil to the pinion tail bearing, couple this to the fact that from what we get in the workshop, few people check/change oil levels this could be a problem. I did have to fit front radius arms on my 90". it has a 3" and with the standard arms was just plain dangerous. It wandered all over the place and under braking was unpredictable (the bushes were new so it wasn't them). Fitted QT's arms no more problems! brakes straight and true and doesn't wander. Also under full articulation my prop was fouling the tubular headers on the V8, changing the diff angle means it now clears (just). I'm also running a DC prop as i had bad vibration (like riding a washing machine at motorway speeds)the vibes have gone now. Why would you go to the ass ache of moving all the bracketry and possibly welding it back in the wrong place when you can just fit a pair of arms for a couple of hundred quid? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 I did have to fit front radius arms on my 90". it has a 3" and with the standard arms was just plain dangerous. It wandered all over the place and under braking was unpredictable (the bushes were new so it wasn't them). Fitted QT's arms no more problems! brakes straight and true and doesn't wander. Also under full articulation my prop was fouling the tubular headers on the V8, changing the diff angle means it now clears (just). I'm also running a DC prop as i had bad vibration (like riding a washing machine at motorway speeds)the vibes have gone now. Why would you go to the ass ache of moving all the bracketry and possibly welding it back in the wrong place when you can just fit a pair of arms for a couple of hundred quid? Steve Thats sounds just like my rangie, wandering all over the place & unpredictable under braking. Also when you get to 50mph+ on motorways it's how you describe "like riding a washing machine" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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