Athena Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Hi All It was a dark day for the 90 and nearly an even darker day for an Astra!!! I was on my way to local retail park when the brakes failed! coming down a small hill braking gently due to weather condition but all of sudden the pedal just went like a wet sponge and hit the floor and i just went on and on, quickly pumping the brake pedal it gave a little bit of pressure and i saved the 90 and Astra from connecting thank god! it was all made worse by having to have my landie placed on the back of a low loader, poor show for my beloved 90, on inspection when the brake was applied brake fluid was running out of the flex brake line to the caliper, so i have ordered up some new ones it was only the drivers side but i may as well replace both but before i do anything is there anything i need to look out for? hints tips possible trouble points? Have bought some new brake fluid and some brake cleaner ready for when the lines turn up As always replies are fantastic and the help is brilliant Cheers Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 (edited) get one for the rear axle as well, goodridge hoses are probably the best to replace originals with. Edited January 10, 2010 by western Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Striaght forward job. Just don't shear any fittings in the callipers or the air will turn blue! I second the Goodridge (tut tut Ralph!) stainless braided hoses. Think about the length you need too - contemplating a suspension lift maybe....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Striaght forward job. Just don't shear any fittings in the callipers or the air will turn blue! I second the Goodridge (tut tut Ralph!) stainless braided hoses. Think about the length you need too - contemplating a suspension lift maybe....? Depends how old yours is, but you could also fill the time by checking out the state of the steel brake pipes, which corrode; the master cylinder seals, the caliper seals on the front / back and if fitted the slave cylinder seals on the back (look for dribbles of fluid = bad). All these are easier to do if you have the brake system drained already. I'd also invest in a bag of new bleed nipples Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Striaght forward job. Just don't shear any fittings in the callipers or the air will turn blue! I second the Goodridge (tut tut Ralph!) stainless braided hoses. Think about the length you need too - contemplating a suspension lift maybe....? typed in a rush as I had to go out. corrected now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boguing Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Surely the problem goes further? Split brake system should have left half the brakes working - no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Surely the problem goes further? Split brake system should have left half the brakes working - no? Nope, LR brakes are split Front & Rear on 90/110/Defender 1 part of master cylinder feeds the front brakes & 2nd part feeds the rears. so if the rears fail you still have front brakes or vice versa. at reduced efficiency Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Surely the problem goes further? Split brake system should have left half the brakes working - no? Older Defenders only have front and rear circuits, and the back circuit (on drums on mine) also has a "G valve" or similar to reduce their locking up effectiveness under heavy braking, making it much much much harder to stop on the back brakes alone, which is what the OP said. On a single circuit Series he would never have stopped at all! (Well, you can mash it into first, turn it off and try the transmission brake when (if) you get down to a low enough speed, but not recommended) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Striaght forward job. Just don't shear any fittings in the callipers or the air will turn blue! I second the Goodridge (tut tut Ralph!) stainless braided hoses. Think about the length you need too - contemplating a suspension lift maybe....? I'd second the goodridge proposal. I'd also say there are various sorts. If you buy from Automec (or maybe other places as well) you can get them with stainless steel fittings on the ends rather than plated steel, and also you have a choice of TuV approved or not (why I don't know as the cost is the same). Automec also do brass bleed screws etc. A lot of the ones on sale in mags, ebay etc have the plated ends. If you do go goodridge the hose to the rear tee piece comes supplied with a copper washer. When you fit it to the tee piece it doesn't fully tighten to crush the washer. I rang Goodridge about it and they said you don't need it, discard it (the sealing is done inside) Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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