New Brakes

[110 Dom]

My 1984 110 V8 CSW after a few years of being laid up is almost ready for mot.

I finished fitting the new suspension at the weekend and had a look at the brakes whilst the wheels were off. The discs are pitted and I can see the seals on the caliper pistons are perished. I think I am best putting new discs and pads all round and changing the caliper seals / pistons?

The axles are Salisbury with the rear axle being a later Salisbury with disc brakes

The vehicle will be used for weekend offroad fun and for towing a trailer / minidigger occasionally.

Anyone any ideas on best discs and pads to fit and how big a job is servicing the calipers?

Am I best sticking with solid or going for vented or slotted / drilled etc?

Thanks Dominic

[landy andy.]

Recently fitted Terrafirma to mine and very happy with.

Andy

[Retroanaconda]

Slotted/vented discs are largely un-necessary, especially if you intend to off-road it as they fill with mud/grit and make short work of your shoes. I would say standard pads too. I like standard

As for the calipers, I believe I have seen a pictorial re-build of one before. Perhaps in the tech archive on this site? Certainly can be done

[110 Dom]

Slotted/vented discs are largely un-necessary, especially if you intend to off-road it as they fill with mud/grit and make short work of your shoes. I would say standard pads too. I like standard

As for the calipers, I believe I have seen a pictorial re-build of one before. Perhaps in the tech archive on this site? Certainly can be done

Ok Cheers, agree with the benefit of not having slotted/vented discs so solid discs it is. I have only just discovered the technical archive and its fab For some reason I have not looked at it before thinking its just really old archived threads. The step by step how to guides with pictures are great and I found the one about rebuilding calipers or How not as the title says!!

I had a look at prices and Paddock's for example quote £12.59 for standard discs or £18.34 for AP Lockheed. Does anyone have any opinion if its worth the extra £6 per disc or not. I certainly would not scrimp where safety is concerned but was more interested if the extra £ brought extra quality or technical spec that made a difference??

[markyboy]

Ok Cheers, agree with the benefit of not having slotted/vented discs so solid discs it is. I have only just discovered the technical archive and its fab For some reason I have not looked at it before thinking its just really old archived threads. The step by step how to guides with pictures are great and I found the one about rebuilding calipers or How not as the title says!!

I had a look at prices and Paddock's for example quote £12.59 for standard discs or £18.34 for AP Lockheed. Does anyone have any opinion if its worth the extra £6 per disc or not. I certainly would not scrimp where safety is concerned but was more interested if the extra £ brought extra quality or technical spec that made a difference??

Make sure the standard discs are not Br!tpart. AP Lockheed are excellent quality and I would pay £6 extra for them over

Br!tpart any day of the week.

Overhauling calipers is a very straight forward job, the only difficult bit is replacing the dust seals, the bits you can see which you say are perished. It's very difficult to do without damaging them. There is a special tool I think but the number of times you'd need it would not warrant buying one. I'd imagine it would be easy to turn something up on a lathe or get one made by an engineering firm. Some people, I believe just use a suitably sized socket, I tried that without success.

In the end it was just a case of taking my time and trial and error. It's probably worth buying extra seals because you're bound to damage some of them.

And yes, the Tech Archive is your friend,

HTH

Mark

[TD5 power]

hi

i would say go with the ap lockheed parts £18 isn't that much for a brake disc and you know its from a reputable manufacturer.

As mark mentioned the dust seals are a pain i recently did mine and i think it is very important to get the bores for the retaining rings as clean as possible. you could do one piston and the ring would go in first time but the next would wreck the ring for no apparent reason, definitely get a spare seal kit you will need it i ended up with only 1 spare ring out of 4.

Matt

[110 Dom]

Thanks for the tips, I have just ordered AP Lockheed discs and Ferodo pads, this should give me some good stopping power . As for the new pistons I need to measure the diameter of the ones fitted to order the correct size. Will have a go at fitting the discs on Saturday, if things go sweet and taking that I have the right tools to hand how long do you reckon it might take for all four corners, 4hrs ish?

[LandyLee]

just discs and pads , 4hours would be about right. Takes about 2 hours to do in the garage so allowing for awkward caliper bolts and splitting the discs off without an airgun etc 4 hours would be right.

[LandyLee]

3.8 hours on autodata !! so you`d be charged that in a garage

[110 Dom]

Great stuff, half a day to work on the brakes and half a day to start the Dinitrol underbody protection....thats if things go to plan!!

Can anyone access Autodata times or is it more a subscription for garages?

[LandyLee]

we`ve got it on subscription and as such my laptop has it on there as I use it for diagnostics etc. It gives good wiring diagram coverage and repair times and timing belt procedures etc. There are illegal copies floating around but considering autodatas policy of prosecuting illegal users I wouldn`t like to comment on its availability ;)

[Litch]

I suppose I can understand the reason for not suggesting drilled discs if the vehicle is off-roaded a lot however if you apply this thinking across the board then why do they fit drilled discs to many off-road vehicles and practically every off-road motorcycle now sold?

Vented discs are another matter and there is no way that trapped much can increase pad wear, I fitted a set to my 1986 90 many years ago and I am still on the original pads despite plenty of hard use. Liquid mud can fill the area between the friction surfaces reducing the cooling effect (regular washing out will clear this) but it does not increase pad wear.

Rebuilding a caliper is certainly a DIY job as long as you are clean & thorough. I believe the manuals give instructions on how to do this but at the end of the day it is just a case of splitting the caliper and then inspecting & rebuilding with everything going back in the same order it was removed. HOWEVER:- If you suspect any wear or damage then stop the rebuild and buy a new caliper(s) as this is not the place to save a few quid just for the sake of it.

New calipers are relitivley cheap and if you are replacing all the pistons in your old one as well as the seals then you have to consider the time the job will take and whether it is worth the effort involved? I personally went down the rebuild path but everyone has to weigh up the pros & cons.