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Been offered a 200 tdi autobox/ transfer box. Cheap. the rest if vehicle is still in scrap yard.

If i was to buy this to put in my 200 tdi'd defender. what else would i need to buy.?

Do they run some sort of controling ecu,

Discuss ,, Negative and positive comments welcome

chris.

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Hi Chris

You will need all the stuff off the back of the engine , flex plate/crankboss/Rear housing etc to convert the manual back of your 200 . No ECU on the 200 auto, also the gear selector and cable.

cheers

Steveb

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Right from a local 4x4 breakers iv managed to locate and buy for £420 all the 200tdi parts i will need for the auto conversion.

next question.

will i have to modify the mountings/ crossmember? Propshafts,

had anyone got any pics of the flex plates /crankboss and all the other little pieces,

iam very capable of doing such conversion. just need to see what im letting myself in for.

please any comments will be good.

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I'll be interested to see how this goes as I'm going to do the same conversion on my 110 , I would think the engine will end up further forward ...

Does this mean you don't need the LT77 now ? totally ok if so :)

cheers

Steveb

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Right from a local 4x4 breakers iv managed to locate and buy for £420 all the 200tdi parts i will need for the auto conversion.

Does this include the boxes? surely you could get an mot failed 300tdi auto disco for sub £500? then you've got everything needed plus loads of spares.

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yes that price includes boxes.. it will include everything i require to do the conversion.

I'd love to put 300 tdi auto into it but discos (scrap) are making stupid money at present

AND this offer is very local to me.

Can anyone tell me if i need to move the engine. in which to fit this conversion.?

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300 tdi.

Will the engines swap straight over from. a 200tdi to 300 tdi?

no, engine mounts are different.

you will need a cooler too

you can mount the t box in the same place as it currently sits using the same mounts and then work fwd from there to determne engine position. this keeps the props the same.

most move the engine back to improve weight distribution and then mount the T box where it ends up and get custom props made.

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Now thats a great bit of info :i-m_so_happy:

John

I did this to my 1993 200 about 2 years ago,turned out to be a very easy job took me 4 days about 8 hours aday by my self(mate let me down and i had booked time off work)Any ways you will need a 200 back plate the one that bolts on to the engine i looked all over for a few months then ended up buying a new one off the dealer £175.00 ,You have to redrill the gear box mount approx 5 inchs backwards cutting the rear and front shafts lengthing and shorting easy job (£75 took 2 days to get them done by prop specialst)Make sure when you get the box you also get flexi plate torque converter gear shifter and cable.You will also need a small oil cooler and hose.also kick down cable and brackets for pump,john

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Ithink the auto box is approx 5 inchs longer than the manuel but the back plate is thinner ,so this is why you have to get the prop shafts adjusted. By the way before i done the job i turned the turbo boost up and adjusted the diesal pump, and i think the vehicle went very good indeed,but when you get the auto fitted it eats up the power not as quick off the mark nice when the box gets into top a lot quiter ,but yes it eats into the power and fuel i have just fitted a big inter cooler this week and it seams to help..alittle the last photo shows the corner of the box you have to cut a bit off to refit the exhaust,john

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Flexi plate seen here when fitting the box fit it with the torque convertor inside the box do not bolt it on to the engine first,i stud the box upwades and lowered the torgue convertor on to it ,the gently fitted it as one unit try to move the fly when into position first so you get at least one of the bolts alined thou the starter hole. You have to remove the starter exhaust front bit and cross menber,Iremoved the seats and seat box and fuel tank (the tank only has to come out because of the redrilling of the gear box mounts). I used 2 jacks to do the job and refitted the transfer box afterwards ,im basicully remembering bits and pieces as i go along so this might sound i bit jumbeled up i did do a whole write up on the http://www.landrovernet.com/ , under work in progress 2 years ago but you will need to sign in.

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I'm sure you have to remove the brass bush in the end of the crankshaft,mmm yes am sure i did. if you want to keep the transer box leavers in the same place you will have to mount then on some sheet metal i use 5mm aloy sheet approx 7 inch long 7 wide(got this off a chap on this site along with other info)

This method of fitting the auto box was better for me as every thing under the bonnet is still standard, no cutting of hose wires exhausts and the rest

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Mmm just read the post again you got a 200 box if this is the case the baxk plate should bolt straight on the box a got came out of a later discovery and am sure its a 300 one but you will beable to tell if you compaire back plate photos, by the way 300 and 200 back plates are different as the 300 has a separate plate to hold the crank oil sealand the 200 is all one.

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Well ive managed to trial bolt up the engine to the front mounts.

drilled the gear box mounts, and all is in place..

Check to see you are happy with your rear prop length...?

You may need to tube the chassis to stop it crushing when doing up the gearbox/transfer box mounts, but you may get away with it I suppose :)

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